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I have a question:

I am a car audio newbie

I am upgrading to a Alpine 9833 head unit and I was wondering what happens with the stock tweeters since the alpine only seems to have 4 channels (60W MAX x 4 V-Drive™ Power Amplifier). So the 2 front and 2 backs will be powered but what happens to the tweeters? I am not using an external AMP for now because i want to see how this setup sonds first.

Also, I was thinking of upgrading the stock speakers to

Infinity 6-1/2" Speakers (6002I) or Infinity 6 1/2" Speakers (REF6002SI)

Does anyone know the difference between these and which ones ones fit beter in a 2004 EX coupe? Also, would i be able to use my existing tweeters with this or would i have to upgrade to component infinitys?

I'm also getting the Infinity 6" x 9" Speakers (9603I) for the rear...

How do these infinity's stack up against polk's (which i had in my last civic)?

Thanks

 
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the infinity reference will equal or a lil better then polk's

but they will sound good. DO NOT get 2-ways front and 3-ways rear, cuz the 3-way will over power the 2-ways. and all u hear sound coming from the rear.

either 2-ways all around or 3-ways all around.

yea 60watts willbe goin to ur speaker (cone tweeter) everything

 
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And, answering your question, you will still have your tweeters. From your head unit, the power gets split up further down the line to send the highs to the tweeters and lows to midbasses.

 
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so i can use the stock tweeters with Alpine 9833 and upgraded infinitys 6.5's and 6x9's?

 
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I would go with a component set in the front and hook the speaker wires into the plug for the factory 6.5". I believe the stock speakers in the front door are 8 ohm wired parallel to achieve a 4 ohm load. If you put in a 4 ohm speaker I believe that will give you a 6 ohm load or something screwy like that. Replace both so that you have a 4 ohm load and get the most power that you can. Also the stock tweeters suck so you might as well kill 2 birds with one stone and replace those as well.

 
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Just an FYI, your gonna get about 28 watts RMS per channel with that HU.

 
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I like the infinity reference speakers. They sound good for the price.

 
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The 28 watts RMS is somewhat better than the stock's output right? i just don't want extra amps all over for now....whats the difference between the infinity reference and the Infinity 6-1/2" Speakers (6002I)?

 
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^^way better
my friend just bought the alpine 9835 and that thing has a s*itload of power.

 
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Yeah they are wired seperately from the head unit, it's like having a very very small external amplifier or an exorbantly large internal amp. It's a nice feature but the PITA to get the convenience is having to run a small wire directly to the battery

 
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You dont have to run a wire directly to the battery.

 
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If you don't run a wire to the battery (V-DRIVE) doesn't it risk the possibility of overheating / melting (I think I read that in some other forum)?

 
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no

 
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I'm just gathering installation accessories for my ALPINE 9833 and i'm going to use the V-DRIVE connection using a 10ga kit that connects it directly to the battery. Is this one i should use or some other one?

http://www.crutchfield.com/S-V4w8vMm...01&search=10ga

 
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You really would be fine just using the stock wiring harness. The ALPINE harness that comes with the radio doesnt even have a 10 guage power wire...it's the same as every other harness.

 
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How many amps does the v-drive amplifier claim to draw? What size is the fuse?

 
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26 watts RMS/60 peak x 4 channel...

If you go to this crutchfield page for the sale of the ALPINE 9833 (http://www.crutchfield.com/S-RCXnmUF...01&search=9833), it says you'll need wiring to install your new receiver RF RP1710 Amplifier Wiring Kit 10 gauge Power (http://www.crutchfield.com/S-RCXnmUF...fa&I=575RP1710)

I didn't buy the head from crutchfield...just the alpine kca-420i so i can hook my ipod up to it...but i added the amp wiring kit to get my cart over 100$ so i could use the 20$ coupon, so it was free, wheeeee...

 
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20 Amps for all V-Drive headunits.....

I had once melted a capacitor in the integrated control unit(ICU), right behind the fuse box, of my old Prelude by simply connecting the 7893 into the stock wire.....All exterior parking lights and dash lights didn't come on when I turn on the headlight....

The replacement cost was about $200 for a ICU, and took a long time to diagnosed, replaced headlight switches, and relay, totaling about $300.....doesn't worth the risk.....

 
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get the infinity components in the front, and the 6 X 9 in the rears...they sound good, that's what i have in my car w/a mtx 4ch hooked up to them

 
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The 7893 isnt a V-Drive unit

 
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7893 is a V-Drive 60x4. The one that looks like 7995, but with internal power and no MP3 capabilities.

It was the first V-drive ever produced?

http://iweb.alpine-usa.com/pls/admn/...in=10&p_more=y

 
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I know a newbie but i don't understand anything about component speakers. I know they seperate the tweeter and the woofer for better sound overall but whats the deal with the crossover / reference. If you look at this picture

http://akamaipix.crutchfield.com/pro...1086000cs.jpeg

there is a 6.5 speaker, a tweeter, but what is the other thing and where would it go in the civic?

Thanks

 
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That's the crossover, connect between amp and speaker.

I've heard that the crossover quality is directly responsible for the quality of sound, means that even the poorest speaker will sound completely different with properly designed crossover than no corssover at all. Now it seems the crossover is important, and the reason why don't go with co-axial is because:

1. usually no woofer low-pass, allowing the woofer to roll of the bumpy high freq extension
2. 6-dB/Oct tweeter high-pass, either very bumpy around 2k, or it crossed at 12.5k then bumpy for the woofer.

Still, passive crossover is complicated design that has to deal with phase change, Q(peak), response change, frequency, and whole lots of things. Active crossover does a good job dual to a flat response and no response change. But still, most mid to high end component has the crossover designed so that all of the above can be their intention to make the speaker sound their best.

A component is always better if you can afford it, simply, the crossover design.

 
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Sorry, I thought you were referring to the CEA spec V-Drive in the newer units. I ran a 7893 in my civic for 6 months in my jeep, and almost 2 years in my civic before upgrading to my 9835, and I havent had ANY problems with the power wires. I will say it again, you can use the stock harness with no problems

 
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My problem came up after about 10 months of installation....

 
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I really doubt it was related to the amplifier inside the HU drawing too much power. My local shop has installed hundreds of vdrive HU's without an upgraded power wire or anything. If it needed more power don't you think alpine would provide a harness with a larger power wire and instructions to wire directly to the battery?

 
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No idea....but the newer unit has a warning label on the Alpine harness that says "Connect directly to the battery" something like that, on the yellow wire(battery lead)....

If the internal amp is bypassed, it will be a completely different story(sort of like 7995 which uses a 5A or 7.5A fuse, I forgot which one).....