Sick of Thermal Tweeter Protection
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Sick of Thermal Tweeter Protection
I can't stand it. I have my Diamond Audio Hex 6.5s and silk tweets running off of a JL 300/2 and those damn tweeters keep cutting out. I figured that even with inflated RMS numbers that I'd still get away without clipping. The gains aren't even halfway up. BICH!
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That's a massive amount of power to be giving components.
Your gain is not a volume control, it adjusts the sensitivity to your inputs depending on the line voltage. If your amp gain will adjust between .2 and 6 volts and you have a 6 volt signal, the gain should be set at ZERO. Gain is simply for adjust the amplifier to weaker signals so that it produces sound louder, it's not by any means a way to control the volume of the amp. Too high of a gain (which you may have) is bad for the amp and your speakers so at the very least check your signal voltage and work from there...
Your gain is not a volume control, it adjusts the sensitivity to your inputs depending on the line voltage. If your amp gain will adjust between .2 and 6 volts and you have a 6 volt signal, the gain should be set at ZERO. Gain is simply for adjust the amplifier to weaker signals so that it produces sound louder, it's not by any means a way to control the volume of the amp. Too high of a gain (which you may have) is bad for the amp and your speakers so at the very least check your signal voltage and work from there...
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grrrrrrrrrrrr i got a server too busy message after I posted that and thought I lost it, what a pain in the ***, I thought they fixed those problems
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Funny, I called Diamond and they told me that I wasn't giving them enough power. Of course they told me they didn't like JL and thought that underpowering them was causing clipping.
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yeah right^^LOL we need ludlam or whiterabbit in here to actually explain the theory, BUT i will tell you that that is an aweful lot of power to be giving a component set regardless, and i know that if you are really cranking on it then the thermals on the crossovers will cut out the tweets until they cool down. a solution may be to turn the tweet level down on the crossover if you can.
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I have the IVA 900 which actually shows different levels of volume by color coding. I never turn it up past 28 (Head unit goes to 35). I'm not using deck power but intil the 31 band eq is in and my a-pillar tweets, I AM turning the treble to +1 which, I know, does aggrevate the situation. If you are all familiar with JL they use a feature that claims to put out a reliable amount of RMS regardless of impedance. Diamond thinks its all BS. I agree that it should be enough power. I've heard of installing automotive lights in place of the resistor in the crossover to help it absorb more power. I dunno if it's fact or fiction, but I'd rather solve it logically first.
im kinda curious about this equipment you have.
so just the tweeters cut out? is this a component set with some sort of protective circuitry on the passive crossover? so JUST the tweets cut out, and you keep your midrange?
just trying to figure out how everything is working in your car....
so just the tweeters cut out? is this a component set with some sort of protective circuitry on the passive crossover? so JUST the tweets cut out, and you keep your midrange?
just trying to figure out how everything is working in your car....
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HU - Alpine IVA-D900
Front stage - Diamond Audio HEX 6.5s and silk tweets
Rear stage - Diamond M6 5.25 (mid only powered off rear fill from HEX component crossovers)
Subs - Diamond Audio TDX 104 (2)
Amps - JL 500/1 (subs)
JL 300/2 (F/R stage)
The 300/2 is not bridged and each channel goes to its respective side. The reason that I can tell that it's a function of the amp is that the tweet in either kickpanel go out at the same time. The crossovers are doing their function. The signal is being sent from the amp and both crossovers cut the tweets at the same time on different channels. The HEX series is Diamonds high end gear. So I'm a little stumped. At first I had noticed that the 300/2 was running hot and the thermal light and low impedance light were going off. Fixing the ground solved that issue, but not the tweets.
Front stage - Diamond Audio HEX 6.5s and silk tweets
Rear stage - Diamond M6 5.25 (mid only powered off rear fill from HEX component crossovers)
Subs - Diamond Audio TDX 104 (2)
Amps - JL 500/1 (subs)
JL 300/2 (F/R stage)
The 300/2 is not bridged and each channel goes to its respective side. The reason that I can tell that it's a function of the amp is that the tweet in either kickpanel go out at the same time. The crossovers are doing their function. The signal is being sent from the amp and both crossovers cut the tweets at the same time on different channels. The HEX series is Diamonds high end gear. So I'm a little stumped. At first I had noticed that the 300/2 was running hot and the thermal light and low impedance light were going off. Fixing the ground solved that issue, but not the tweets.
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I've really thought about it but I don't know how far after cutting out that I risk melting the sheath on the tweeter wires.
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umm maybe the crossovers are getting too little impedance (three pairs of speakers...the tweets, mids in the doors, and the "rear fill."!) Are they designed to run rear fill as well as the components? maybe you should try connecting the rears to deck power instead of the crossovers and see if that remedies your problem... just a thought, but heck, try it and who knows, i might have guessed right?!
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crank the gains all the way down, the deck settings to zero across the board, and crank the volume, see if it still does it then, maybe?
Originally Posted by Rufus
I've heard of installing automotive lights in place of the resistor in the crossover to help it absorb more power. I dunno if it's fact or fiction, but I'd rather solve it logically first.
Last edited by turboslug; Sep 16, 2004 at 01:33 AM.
I'm curious, how are you connecting the rear mids only to the system? Are you connecting them to the same place on teh crossover as where your front midbass drivers are connected?
My crossovers have incandescent lights as well for the tweeter that come on during amp clipping. Not sure on the electrical theory behind it, but supposedly the filament in the bulb will blow before the tweeter does.
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YUp, sorry it took so long. The RAF has settings as well -6dB, -3dB, etc. They're set all the way down. But they ARE pulling power off the crossovers. Its still irrelevant since I tested it without them plugged in and still had the issue.
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or maybe a short somewhere. just a possibility, make sure connections are good and wiring is sound. there's always plenty of moisture in our lovely doors.
you don't have a loud button turned on on the HU or anything either do you?
you don't have a loud button turned on on the HU or anything either do you?
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LOUD is not on and neither is the other MX feature on the Alpines. Crossovers are under the carpet (under the seats), and the speakers are in kickpanels.
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