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Got a new amp... rating is 1x2400 mono and 2x1200 stereo 1 ohm . that'll be how I run it (2x1200). the amp fuse rating is 4 fuses of 40A. 160A. so, 4 ga will work or should I be on the safe side and get 2ga or 0ga even. car shop here said 2ga. I don't want to spend 120 bucks on a 2ga kit. think the civic can hold up on it's end while I"m bumpin? or should I get it some help (aka alternator? battery? batcap?) right now I have a 4ga wire and a 100A fuse on it for my old system.
also, i have a buddy that works construction.. so he can get me housing electrical wire for free, any gauge that I want... but I doubt it's the same. i've only worked w/ car stereo wire, not housing electrical. he has 0awg and whatnot. let me know what you think

 
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what kind is it? I'll sell you a USAmps 2000x.

 
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since you have all the RCAs and all, just get some 1/0 for power, try ebay, they sell it for a couple dollars a foot, and you should be able to find cheaper too.

 
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Well, wire is wire (except for Monster cables, of course, which are magical). But I suspect it won't be as flexible. I don't really know, though. Depends on what the wire is used for in the house, I guess. Might be just fine.

 
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what kind of amp is it?

i have some thoughts

 
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its not a hifonics XI colossus....

you definitely need 0/1 gauge cable for that beast of an amp!

the reason to go with better cable is flexibility and ease of install. most housing wire that I know about is single strand, that would make isntallation damn near impossible!

knu, on the other hand, has like 5000 strands in their 0/1 cable, it nearly wilts under its own weight in very short lengths!

overall, I LOVE the audiopipe kits. you can get a 0/1 kit for $50 off ebay plus shipping, and it comes with everything you need, so you dont have have to worry about getitng your cabel for free then purchasing an inline fuse block, an D block to break down the 0/1, etc.....

If I may be so bold, why are you runnign the amp instereo? I cant imagine anything up front that could handle 1200 rms, and I cant imagine anything you can wire up to one ohm twice that would be more desireable to run that way as opposed to mono at two ohms....

 
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I forgot to mention my conclusion!, if the housing wire is soft and flexible, easy to install, and you find D-blocks and rings cheaper than $50, I would defeintely go for the housing wire.

but my guess is that its like 4-12 stranded or something rediculous like that, and that the audiopipe kit is the way to go.

 
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It's an Audiobahn rack mount A2x600HQ Here is a link:
http://www.cardomain.com/item/ABNA2X600HQ

You think I can get away with 0ga instead of 1/0ga? and say, a 200A fuse? what about a new alternator? is that a MUST or just a if I WANT would you say?

 
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oh yeah, I'm running it stereo.. because I never have been able to do that before! ha, I don't know. I've got 2 IDMAX's to go w/ this, dual 2 ohm VC's.

 
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and one more thing... how would you guys mount this thing? I was thinking just building a normal box and then putting it built in the top of it.. but that seems so lame for an amp like this! suggestions?

 
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I would run it mono, less chance to create any accoustic anomolies. arguably, nothing should be in stereo behind the drivers seat! (that includes the rear speakers)

Regardless, 0 gauge, 0/1, both would be excelent for that amplifier. 2 gauge would work, but 0/1 is just so much more easily availably, especially with the audiopipe kits out. but yeah, 0 or 0/1, both are great.

an alternator in yrou case is a want, not a need. do you want one? go for it! do you need one? the car will be fine.

 
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I agree, id run it mono. Im curious of others opinions on Audiobahn products. Have they changed in the last year or so? I thought they used to be a lower end quality product ?

 
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Don't buy an amp kit, waste of money

I would suggest either 0 or 1/0, the biggest that you can possibly fit in, there are no such things as overkill when it comes to wire... for speaker wire, use 10 or 8 gauge power wire. I know a guy who is running 4 awg wire for speaker wire for component speakers in his doors... well maybe that is a LITTLE overkill

With that much power, a Civic will most definitely NOT hold up under that kind of current demand. DEFINITELY get a bigger battery, if you can, get a group 51 and full size yellow top, put the group 51 under your hood and the full size in the back on an isolator device.

Don't bother with the free home electrical ****... it's just not the same, pure and simple. It needs to be done right the first time.

Instead of a fuse I would recommend a circuit breaker, in your case possibly a 200 amp or 140 if you think 200 is too much. If you ever popped a 140 I'd be surprised.

If you can afford it, GET A NEW ALTERNATOR. This is what will generate 100% of the power in your system and will therefore make a world of difference. Remember, your stock alternator is only around 70a max output, and with an amp with 160a of fusing, this alt will not even begin to keep up. Get the biggest bloody alternator that you possibly can, the higher amperage output, the better. This will alleviate 100% of your electrical problems and have the ability to supply your amp with the power it will be asking for.

Without a new alternator and this kind of power, you are running a real risk of dropping to a very low voltage which at the least will result in electrical devices shutting off or going into protection (I mean everything in your car, not just the amp), and at worst you will kill your alternator.

Remember, your amplifier will only be as good as the power that you supply to it, so the more that you give it the better

And yes, definitely run it in mono.

 
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Rersonant Engineering 35.1D running at 1.3 ohms: ~1400 rms
Hifonics XI zeus running 4 ohms stereo: 700 RMS
Hifonics XI olympus fronts running 4 ohms stereo: 250 RMS
Hifonics XI olympus rear running 2 ohms mono: 500 RMS

total system power at the time: ~2850 rms, 1500 of class D bass, 1500 class a/b highs.

all on stock electricals. was the car happy? nope. did it hold up to the demand? you betcha! there was no need to upgrade anything! just because the car would be far happier with a 5 farad cap, two additional batteries in the back, and a 150 amp alternator doesnt mean that the stock E-system cant handle it! our stock system deserves more credit than that!

a 20 year smoker can still run a marathon with no training! it may take him many many hours, but he can still do it! I cant run a 6 or 7 minute mile anymore, that doesnt mean I am not able to handle running!

 
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now, dont get me wrong! with 2400 rms of class D power, much less a/b, I definitely have the same reccommendations you do! at the minimum, I too would add an additional battery in the back, most likely a deep cycle, unless I was competing SPL. I am a fan of the die hards, they cost $85 for more current capacity than a yellowtop, and come with a 5 year warrantee. the battery box should really be vented no matter what anyways, sealed or not.

I really hope his 2400 rms amplifier is class D. if its class a/b, even a 200 amp breaker is theoretically not eough!

Id go with 200 amp just because if I ever did take it to competition I could burp it without fear of popping the 140 amp fuse during my run. for music, I agree with you, mega, 140 shouldnt blow at all!

 
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thanks for the replies... so.. new story here.. just lost my job, therefore, money is a big problem... right now I have nothing done to my electrical except I have my crappy 4ga running to an old nappy amplifier running one IDMAX right now. I would like to have both of my subs running for the 4th of july... (I always take my new stereo stuff to a party my friend hosts) and I wanted to bump them there. think I could run this stuff for a few burps or whatnot with my little 4awg and everything? or should I just wait till next year, get a new optima51 under the hood and 0ga wire and everything... yeah, I look on the amp and I'm pretty sure it's a/b..... It's high current. does'nt that suck. I won it in a raffle for 5 bucks at last fall's USACi in Kansas City. so what should I do for the minimal money but will still stay at least a little loud? I can do one upgrade. like, wire, or battery. alternator would be too much of a pain right now (unfortunatly)

 
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Putting the battery in the back though won't really help all that much unless he runs the system with the car off, because while the car is running the power is still coming from the alternator, not the battery, and the load problems will still be the same, maybe even worse with the second battery acting as another burden on the electrical system.

 
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it gives more time for play before the batteries are drained. poor people also are unable to afford new alternators (like myself, as well).

make your decision based on information here:
http://www.betteraudio.com/geolemon/newmain/battcapalt/

It will be a much more educated decision than based on our experiences and hearsay

 
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Like Whiterabbit said, PLENTY of people are running high power levels with NO problems...

Would it be good? Sure. Is it needed. Nope. (exactly like WR said)...

Planning on competing? No? Then 4 awg might even work... Just be smart about it....

And good luck popping a 200amp fuse... Anyone else here popped one that big in their civic yet??

 
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yeah, with a screw driver