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Ok, well I'm fairly content with the stock speakers, but I definitely need more bass! I don't have a specific budget, but I'm not looking to spend much more than $1000. I've determined that I wil most likely be getting two Alpine 10" Type R Subs (got a great deal) and a Pioneer DEH-P8500MP Head Unit (just curious, does anybody know if you can change the color of the display?).
The main thing I still have left to determine is what amp to get. I'm pretty sure I want to run the subs paralell in bridged mode, so I'd need a four-channel amp. I was originally looking at Alpine amps, but they seem to be way underpowered for their price. Right now, I'm looking at either a RF Punch 501X or 301X (unless anybody else has suggestions?) because they seem to offer the most power for the $ and have a fairly reputable name.
My main concerns are actually being able to power the amp (I don't want to run a capacitator or extra battery) and whether I need the 2-ohm or 4-ohm subs to run them in paralell mode?
Also, should I get a sealed or bandpass box? (I'm not looking to build my own and I primarily listen to techno and some punk).
Finally, will I be able to feel the bass with this set-up?!
Thanks for all your help.

 
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you dont need a 4 channel for that...

you could run that the same on a 1 channel, 2 channel, or 4 channel...

 
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get dual 4 ohm coils for a mono amp thats 1 ohm stable. or for a 2 channel amp with each channel 2 ohm stable. get dual 2 ohm coils for a mono amp 2 ohm stable. or a 2 channel amp to run at 4 ohms. or a 4 channel amp with 2 channels bridged.

can't change color on that deck, sorry.

i doubt bandpass would be a good box for punk music...

you can run any sub in parallel or in series. don't worry about wiring till you decide on an amp. or buy the subs and then decide on the amp. you have to match the two up though.

think thats most of your ?'s...

 
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I would suggest:

Get the 2-ohm versions, use a combo of series and parallel wiring to end up with an overall 2 ohm mono load.

Once you do that you can get a nice class d monoblock amp. This will be cheaper than getting a 4-channel amp and will be much more power efficient.

The alpines are 300 rms each, so you want a 600 rms amp or so. There are tons of amps that fit this category.
- Kicker KX600.1
- Kicker SX650.1
- Alpine M500
- MTX 421D
- Rockford 501bd
- JL 500/1
- JBL 600.1

I would suggest a sealed box, definately not a bandpass box. They are really pretty to look at, but the sound quality really suffers with bandpass boxes. The critical part of any box is the airspace requirements. The Alpines want 0.5 to 0.8 cu ft each. Try to get a box as close to that as possible. More closer to the 0.8 than the 0.5 cu ft.

This box would work well. Its got the right airspace, the speakers chambers are internally separated, and its made of true 3/4" MDF. http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...category=14945

Oh, and yes you will feel the bass without any problems ....

 
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Ok, I will be getting the Alpine MRD-M500 Amplifier (stable at 2 ohms) and the 2 Alpine SWR-1021D 10" Type-R 2-ohm DVC Subwoofers. Is the wiring diagram (attached below) the correct way to wire this setup for a combination paralell/series connection as regularjoe suggested? This will power the subs at 2ohms each, which will draw 250 watts each (amp is rated 500wRMS @2ohms), correct?
Also, what do I need to do to run a remote turn on wire (think thats what its called)? I want to be able to turn the system on/off from the head unit, not have it automatically power on when the car starts up, even if the head unit is off.

 
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that's the right wiring. don't mind the impedence the subs are at, the subs will each get 250W. the subs are actually at 1 ohm, but you have 2 in series, so the amp sees 2 ohms. get it?

unless you put in a switch, i don't think you can have the amp only turn on from when the HU is on. now some HU's do have a subwoofer output, which it will let you turn on and off. the amp will remain on though. hook a small wire up to the red wire on the wire harness to your HU for the remote. then put an inline switch in if you want to control the amps turning on and off for some reason.

 
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If you use the remote wire on the radio harness the amp will turn on when the HU is on, and off when you turn the HU off. If the HU has a nonfader or sub controll then you will be able to adjust the output of the subs from the HU.

 
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hrm... my friend wants to run 2 12' type r's on a JBL 1200 watt amp... he says he wants loud and clear... should i tell him to get the JBL 500.1 amp? money isnt really an issue with him. i'm more concerned with over powerage.

 
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No such beast.

JBL 1200.1, 600.1, and 300.1

JL makes a 500/1

 
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Hypnotik - be warned, you are falling into a trap of your own making. The stocks sound ok with the factory HU, but when you put some power behind them you might find that they sound crappy - my 01 coupe cam with crappy 15W Pioneers and I never even gave consideration to keeping them.

I'd at least put some $$ into replacing your fronts as you will spend alot of time up there..

 
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ohh i meant jbl 600.1. I guess my main question is this. is it gonna damage the sub to have a 1200 watt amp pushing them? Thanks.

 
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I was just browsing for wiring information, and when I read this thread, I found some contradicting information on JL Audio's website. http://www.jlaudio.com/tutorials/wir...ex.html#2dvcsp That's a link to JL Audio's tutorial on how to wire subs.

I'm very new to this stereo thing, so excuse me if I get things messed up. But I think that he is wiring 2 subs in series. According to JL, this is what they put.

"Please note that when wiring multiple drivers, whether DVC drivers or their SVC brethren, it is recommended that series connections between drivers be avoided at all costs. This does not include series connections made between voice coils on the same driver. For more information, please consult our DVC FAQ section."

So is it wrong to wire the subs the way you showed to do it?

I was going to PM Ludlam or whiterabbit about this, but might as well ask here. I have 6.5 Kicker RS6 components in the front. They have a 100watt rms capability. I'm planning to get one 12" JL W6V2, which I think needs 400 watts.

Here's the setup and question . I want to run a Kicker kx700.5 amp that says the 4 channels can be bridged to 150x2 at 4 ohms + 200x1 at 4 ohm. Kicker claims when everything is ran at 2 ohms, the sub channel puts out 400 watts. I still want to bridge the 4 channels at 4 ohms, and make the channel for the sub at 2 ohms. Is it okay to mix up the ohm loads on one amp? Will I harm the amp in anyway? Also, do you think the Kicker rs6 can handle 150 watts? Thanks for the help.

 
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You can bridge the two halves and run them at 4 ohms ... plus run the sub channel at 2 ohms. It will work just fine. Mixing the 4 and 2 ohms isn't a problem.

The only thing you can't do is try to run a bridged channel at 2 ohms.

 
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keep the gains down on your amp and the components will be fine. i think those midranges alone will take 100W rms, plus tweeter, so they shouldn't blow. but don't blast the music to the point of distortion and you will be OK

 
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Thanks fellas. I'll probably get the amp first to power my components, and save up for the sub later.

 
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capacitator lol.