impedence of components?
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i have been considering replacing the woofers of my components, but was curious about one thing...
if i had tweeters with an impedence of 4ohms and woofers with an impedence of 2 ohms, what would the amplifier see? i know a 4 and 4 would show the amp 4ohms, but i can't figure out this situation conclusively. i ask because some of the woofers i have looked at have a 2 ohm impedence.
if i had tweeters with an impedence of 4ohms and woofers with an impedence of 2 ohms, what would the amplifier see? i know a 4 and 4 would show the amp 4ohms, but i can't figure out this situation conclusively. i ask because some of the woofers i have looked at have a 2 ohm impedence.
I think the way it works is the crossover splits the freq.
So if the crossover is at 2k hz .... the amp sees a 4 ohm load for freq above that, and a 2 ohm load for anything below that freq.
So the mids would actually get more power than the tweet ....
I beleive most component sets use both 4-ohm tweets and mids for this reason.
Ludlam ??????
So if the crossover is at 2k hz .... the amp sees a 4 ohm load for freq above that, and a 2 ohm load for anything below that freq.
So the mids would actually get more power than the tweet ....
I beleive most component sets use both 4-ohm tweets and mids for this reason.
Ludlam ??????
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Re: impedence of components?
Originally posted by DoubleDeuce2k2
i have been considering replacing the woofers of my components, but was curious about one thing...
if i had tweeters with an impedence of 4ohms and woofers with an impedence of 2 ohms, what would the amplifier see? i know a 4 and 4 would show the amp 4ohms, but i can't figure out this situation conclusively. i ask because some of the woofers i have looked at have a 2 ohm impedence.
i have been considering replacing the woofers of my components, but was curious about one thing...
if i had tweeters with an impedence of 4ohms and woofers with an impedence of 2 ohms, what would the amplifier see? i know a 4 and 4 would show the amp 4ohms, but i can't figure out this situation conclusively. i ask because some of the woofers i have looked at have a 2 ohm impedence.
A Component set speakers should all be the same ohm load. Most tweeters would not be able to handle a 2 ohm load.
If i were you i would get rid of the Crossovers for your component set and run them directly to the amp (if you have one, i hope your not trying to run a 2 ohm load off your stock deck.)
Most crossovers are designed for the SPECIFIC speaker that they came with
I would not use a mix up the component set
Re: Re: impedence of components?
Originally posted by DIZZLE
A Component set speakers should all be the same ohm load. Most tweeters would not be able to handle a 2 ohm load.
If i were you i would get rid of the Crossovers for your component set and run them directly to the amp (if you have one, i hope your not trying to run a 2 ohm load off your stock deck.)
Most crossovers are designed for the SPECIFIC speaker that they came with
I would not use a mix up the component set
A Component set speakers should all be the same ohm load. Most tweeters would not be able to handle a 2 ohm load.
If i were you i would get rid of the Crossovers for your component set and run them directly to the amp (if you have one, i hope your not trying to run a 2 ohm load off your stock deck.)
Most crossovers are designed for the SPECIFIC speaker that they came with
I would not use a mix up the component set
By using a crossover you can also benefit from the tweeter protection circuits in some xovers.
For someone new to car audio, or not that experienced in tunning something, I would say stick with the xover that came with the speakers, or get an AudioControl or similar xover.
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see, the woofers i was looking at were image dynamics, and it says it has a 2 ohm voice coil. my current component set is the PSD 216 from MB Quart. the tweeters are great but i was hoping to get more midbass performance. i was also looking at some focal polyglass speakers, which i can get in 4 ohm, but i know ID for bass and thats why i was curious. obviously my tweeters are pretty bright, and even if the midbass was getting twice the power i figured it might be possible to lower the settings on my HU and get the desired sound. thanx for all the input.
If you seal your doors you will gain a TON of midbass response in those components. I have the same ones, and I used resin and two sheets of fiberglass weave to seal all the holes in my door. Pretty soon i'll be finishing sealed door pods for them and those *should* make it even better. I would try sealing your doors first before you go and buy new woofers. You could use fatmat to do it as well.
you can totally mix different impedance speakers for yoru same component set. you can run a 2 ohm tweeter and an 8 ohm woofer, or vice versa, or any combination.
however, you cant take an existing set and replace the midwoofer with a 2 ohm version, it changes the crossover point between teh tweeter and the midwoofer. thats the reason people say "crossovers were designed to run with those speakers"
if you ran a 2 ohm midwoofer and a 4 ohm tweeter, the tweeter would present a 4 ohm load to the amplifier and recieve teh power that amplifier makes at 4 ohms. the 2 ohm midwoofer would present a 2 ohm load for hte amplifier, and would recieve the power the amplifier makes at 2 ohms. they dont affect each other at all, powerhandling wise.
however, most people arent willing to sit down and desgn a well built crossover using solen components or other small tolerance well built components, add the notch filters, and in general plan everything out to within a gnats ***. So for the average enthusiast who wants to build a frankenstien set, active processing is the way to go.
you dont have to worry abotu midwoofer/tweeter interaction, becase they are on separate amplifier channels. it adds a great dimension of upgradability and tunability, as you can adjust crossover points to a fine detail, and you can still easily add notch filters to smooth out resonance peaks.
audiocontrol makes a series of great active crossovers that really make system construction and tuning simple, as well as changes or additions cheaper.
however, you cant take an existing set and replace the midwoofer with a 2 ohm version, it changes the crossover point between teh tweeter and the midwoofer. thats the reason people say "crossovers were designed to run with those speakers"
if you ran a 2 ohm midwoofer and a 4 ohm tweeter, the tweeter would present a 4 ohm load to the amplifier and recieve teh power that amplifier makes at 4 ohms. the 2 ohm midwoofer would present a 2 ohm load for hte amplifier, and would recieve the power the amplifier makes at 2 ohms. they dont affect each other at all, powerhandling wise.
however, most people arent willing to sit down and desgn a well built crossover using solen components or other small tolerance well built components, add the notch filters, and in general plan everything out to within a gnats ***. So for the average enthusiast who wants to build a frankenstien set, active processing is the way to go.
you dont have to worry abotu midwoofer/tweeter interaction, becase they are on separate amplifier channels. it adds a great dimension of upgradability and tunability, as you can adjust crossover points to a fine detail, and you can still easily add notch filters to smooth out resonance peaks.
audiocontrol makes a series of great active crossovers that really make system construction and tuning simple, as well as changes or additions cheaper.
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i already fatmatted it, but i put the stuff all over just to reduce the resonance, rather than with the intent to seal the door. maybe i'll give sealing the door up a try first than
you can also get foam cups for the doors, it helps.
or you can try kickpanels, that gives you a whole lot of options when it comes to woofer enclosure, so its possible to get HUGE midbass from kickpanels fairly easily
or you can try kickpanels, that gives you a whole lot of options when it comes to woofer enclosure, so its possible to get HUGE midbass from kickpanels fairly easily
yeha, you can get these cups off crutchfield, or an audio shop, anyplace. they act basically like weatherstripping, seal around the speaker, but its a whole cup that goes back in teh door, its own semi-enclosure.
its like if you breathe really fast in and out through yrou mouth, then stuff a sock in yoru mouth and try again, it doesnt work as well. its not a perfect sealed box behind, but it retards the air enough to increase yrou midbass response.
and when the window hits it, its nice and foam soft, so no worries there. and no worries on price, they cost like $6 each
its like if you breathe really fast in and out through yrou mouth, then stuff a sock in yoru mouth and try again, it doesnt work as well. its not a perfect sealed box behind, but it retards the air enough to increase yrou midbass response.
and when the window hits it, its nice and foam soft, so no worries there. and no worries on price, they cost like $6 each
welp, ive got the manual for the ID horn component set right here in front of me (it arrived today in the mail) and it says the crossover was designed to work with either a 2 or 4 ohm midbass.
kind of strange, and certainly unique, so you cant do it with any other crossover that i know about, but apparently it works for this one.
good luck picking componetns!
kind of strange, and certainly unique, so you cant do it with any other crossover that i know about, but apparently it works for this one.
good luck picking componetns!
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