Spark Plugs
send me an email or pm me, ill brb im going out for a bit hhowe@carolina.rr.com
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From: Alabama, US
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Premium Member
Joined: Oct 2001
Posts: 3,860
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From: Alabama, US
Rep Power: 0 Q. Why are there different heat ranges? Which one should I use?
A. Part of your spark plug’s responsibilities, in addition to firing a spark, is to remove heat from the combustion chamber. This is accomplished by channeling the heat through the insulator material and metal housing. From there, the heat is transferred to the cylinder head where the engine cooling system can go to work. A spark plug’s heat range is its ability to dissipate heat. The “colder” the plug, the more heat it can channel out of the combustion chamber. In a performance application, colder heat ranges may be necessary to handle the extreme temperatures brought on by higher compression ratios, forced induction, and high RPM’s. While “Colder” plugs may seem to be the way to go, please remember that the spark plug must achieve its “self-cleaning” temperature where it can burn off fuel and carbon deposits. Otherwise, the plug could “foul out” where it is prone to misfiring and poor acceleration. A plug that is too “hot” can overheat, also causing power loss, detonation, pre-ignition, and possible engine damage. A good, general rule of thumb is to start with the factory recommended heat range. For every 75 to 100 hp you add to your engine, you may go to the next colder step. DENSO heat ranges move up as they get colder; 16 would be our hottest Iridium Power plug, 34 would be our coldest (ranges; 16,20,22,24,27,31,34)
http://www.densoiridium.com/faq.php
A. Part of your spark plug’s responsibilities, in addition to firing a spark, is to remove heat from the combustion chamber. This is accomplished by channeling the heat through the insulator material and metal housing. From there, the heat is transferred to the cylinder head where the engine cooling system can go to work. A spark plug’s heat range is its ability to dissipate heat. The “colder” the plug, the more heat it can channel out of the combustion chamber. In a performance application, colder heat ranges may be necessary to handle the extreme temperatures brought on by higher compression ratios, forced induction, and high RPM’s. While “Colder” plugs may seem to be the way to go, please remember that the spark plug must achieve its “self-cleaning” temperature where it can burn off fuel and carbon deposits. Otherwise, the plug could “foul out” where it is prone to misfiring and poor acceleration. A plug that is too “hot” can overheat, also causing power loss, detonation, pre-ignition, and possible engine damage. A good, general rule of thumb is to start with the factory recommended heat range. For every 75 to 100 hp you add to your engine, you may go to the next colder step. DENSO heat ranges move up as they get colder; 16 would be our hottest Iridium Power plug, 34 would be our coldest (ranges; 16,20,22,24,27,31,34)
http://www.densoiridium.com/faq.php
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From: Charlotte, North Carolina, US
Rep Power: 0 I think I felt a small difference from them. Although, it is most likely a difference that only took place in my head...LOL
I didn't see any difference is mpg, start-up, or performance that I could really state as fact.
I actually feel like an idiot for buying mine. I mean, the oe plugs are supposed to last 100k or so...
I didn't see any difference is mpg, start-up, or performance that I could really state as fact.
I actually feel like an idiot for buying mine. I mean, the oe plugs are supposed to last 100k or so...
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Joined: Oct 2002
Posts: 1,592
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From: San Diego, California, USA, Northern Hemisphere, Earth, Sol System, Spiral arm of the Milkey Way
Rep Power: 0 Dont you people EVER learn? Jesus H Christ, this is why APC is still selling ****.
if you are going to be a money burning riceer asshat, go all out and buy the spoon plugs. ONLY 95 bucks for a set of 4!
I mean if you are going to waste money on useless bullshit, why not go all out?
http://www.ipsracing.com/engine/igni...oon_plugs.html
if you are going to be a money burning riceer asshat, go all out and buy the spoon plugs. ONLY 95 bucks for a set of 4!
I mean if you are going to waste money on useless bullshit, why not go all out?
http://www.ipsracing.com/engine/igni...oon_plugs.html
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From: Des Moines, Iowa, US
Rep Power: 0 there was a long thread on this not too long ago.... i started it and guru and bartkat fought.... it was great.
guru ended up convinceing me that it does not matter, get NGKs for like $10
oh, and SEARCH
guru ended up convinceing me that it does not matter, get NGKs for like $10
oh, and SEARCH
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Joined: Oct 2001
Posts: 3,860
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From: Alabama, US
Rep Power: 0 Originally posted by HondaGuru
Dont you people EVER learn? Jesus H Christ, this is why APC is still selling ****.
if you are going to be a money burning riceer asshat, go all out and buy the spoon plugs. ONLY 95 bucks for a set of 4!
I mean if you are going to waste money on useless bullshit, why not go all out?
http://www.ipsracing.com/engine/igni...oon_plugs.html
Dont you people EVER learn? Jesus H Christ, this is why APC is still selling ****.
if you are going to be a money burning riceer asshat, go all out and buy the spoon plugs. ONLY 95 bucks for a set of 4!
I mean if you are going to waste money on useless bullshit, why not go all out?
http://www.ipsracing.com/engine/igni...oon_plugs.html
Registered!!
Joined: Oct 2002
Posts: 1,592
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From: San Diego, California, USA, Northern Hemisphere, Earth, Sol System, Spiral arm of the Milkey Way
Rep Power: 0 No, and for good reason too.
I dont need to strap a dog turd onto my roof to know it wont make me any faster.
http://forums.clubsi.com/showflat.ph...b=5&o=&fpart=1
originally posted my me:
What does this mean exactly? It means that, generally speaking, multiple grounds such as the BOSCH +4 and Zex plugs are useless.
Why? Simple.
A. terminal
B. ceramic insulation
C. center electrode
D. gap
E. ground electrode
Say this spark plug has multiple grounded electrodes, like a +4.
Now say, it is in an engine and is about to fire.
The spark energy flows down the center electrode, out into the gap and onto the closest (remember "path of least resistance"? ground.
This pattern will then repeat over and over for the entire life of the spark plug. That means the spark will hit the same ground EVERY time unless the grounding becomes damaged or so corroded its proximity to the center electrode is no longer enough to make it the least restrictive path for the electricity. In that case it will move onto one of the other grounds.
And that brings us to the only plus of having multiple grounded electrodes. Fact of the matter is though, unless you dont plan replacing your plugs between 100K mile intervals you will never need the extra grounds.
This is one of the reasons why cars advertise "no tune ups before the first 100K miles".
Personally, because I run nitrous, I change my plugs with every oil change.
The same goes for platinum and iridium plugs. These dont offer better performance. They dont give you better MPG, and they dont make your car run "smoother" (unless you are replacing some old busted plugs, in which case ANY new plug would make it run "smoother"). They just last longer. This is another "100K mile tune up" deal. Under normal driving conditions the center electrode made out of these harder materials will, of course last longer. Because as we all know its so costly to change spark plugs at 60K miles, this is a must have, right? Pfff.
The ONLY reason why dealers recommend these plugs and why manufacturers put them in their cars is for that reasons and that reason alone.
Now, for high compression, turbo, and or N20 applications PLATNUM AND IRIDIUM plugs ARE NOT GOOD. The center electrodes will actually crap out much faster then your standard core electrodes under those conditions, especially N20 applications. Ive seen many a nitrous'd car running Denzos pop a plug. Trust me on this one.
And for the record ZEX SUCKS ***!!!! Yes, thats right. ESPECIALLY their spark plugs.
How do I know this?
I bought a set. Not only are they 2X as expensive as the NGKs I use now the crapped out on me.
Three sub 15 second runs on brand new Zex plugs (on just a 50 shot mind you) resulted in one SEVERLY melted #3 plug. And I mean SEVERLY. All 3 ground electrodes were carbon coated, the center electrode AND the protective ceramic coating were melted and vaporized completely through. Thankfully there was no engine damage, but thats not the point. For a full year after that I ran the EXACT SAME set up with my NGKs, and had NEVER had a problem. Not once. Whats that mean? Its obviously not a mechanical or installation problem with the nitrous or fuel injection, rather its solely the fault of the plug.
PIECE OF ****
Plus Zex plugs are made in France. That should tell you enough.
Oh, and what do I reccomend for Nitrous and turbo applications? NGK-BKR7E (8E's for apps that call for 2 steps colder over stock) thats what. 2 bcuks each (high end) and are t3h b3st.
Whats all this mean? An NGK that costs you a buck a piece at pep boys will do the exact same job as a 15 dollar denso in most applications. It just wont last to 100K miles before needing to be changed. BFD.
I dont need to strap a dog turd onto my roof to know it wont make me any faster.
http://forums.clubsi.com/showflat.ph...b=5&o=&fpart=1
originally posted my me:
What does this mean exactly? It means that, generally speaking, multiple grounds such as the BOSCH +4 and Zex plugs are useless.
Why? Simple.
A. terminal
B. ceramic insulation
C. center electrode
D. gap
E. ground electrode
Say this spark plug has multiple grounded electrodes, like a +4.
Now say, it is in an engine and is about to fire.
The spark energy flows down the center electrode, out into the gap and onto the closest (remember "path of least resistance"? ground.
This pattern will then repeat over and over for the entire life of the spark plug. That means the spark will hit the same ground EVERY time unless the grounding becomes damaged or so corroded its proximity to the center electrode is no longer enough to make it the least restrictive path for the electricity. In that case it will move onto one of the other grounds.
And that brings us to the only plus of having multiple grounded electrodes. Fact of the matter is though, unless you dont plan replacing your plugs between 100K mile intervals you will never need the extra grounds.
This is one of the reasons why cars advertise "no tune ups before the first 100K miles".
Personally, because I run nitrous, I change my plugs with every oil change.
The same goes for platinum and iridium plugs. These dont offer better performance. They dont give you better MPG, and they dont make your car run "smoother" (unless you are replacing some old busted plugs, in which case ANY new plug would make it run "smoother"). They just last longer. This is another "100K mile tune up" deal. Under normal driving conditions the center electrode made out of these harder materials will, of course last longer. Because as we all know its so costly to change spark plugs at 60K miles, this is a must have, right? Pfff.
The ONLY reason why dealers recommend these plugs and why manufacturers put them in their cars is for that reasons and that reason alone.
Now, for high compression, turbo, and or N20 applications PLATNUM AND IRIDIUM plugs ARE NOT GOOD. The center electrodes will actually crap out much faster then your standard core electrodes under those conditions, especially N20 applications. Ive seen many a nitrous'd car running Denzos pop a plug. Trust me on this one.
And for the record ZEX SUCKS ***!!!! Yes, thats right. ESPECIALLY their spark plugs.
How do I know this?
I bought a set. Not only are they 2X as expensive as the NGKs I use now the crapped out on me.
Three sub 15 second runs on brand new Zex plugs (on just a 50 shot mind you) resulted in one SEVERLY melted #3 plug. And I mean SEVERLY. All 3 ground electrodes were carbon coated, the center electrode AND the protective ceramic coating were melted and vaporized completely through. Thankfully there was no engine damage, but thats not the point. For a full year after that I ran the EXACT SAME set up with my NGKs, and had NEVER had a problem. Not once. Whats that mean? Its obviously not a mechanical or installation problem with the nitrous or fuel injection, rather its solely the fault of the plug.
PIECE OF ****
Plus Zex plugs are made in France. That should tell you enough.
Oh, and what do I reccomend for Nitrous and turbo applications? NGK-BKR7E (8E's for apps that call for 2 steps colder over stock) thats what. 2 bcuks each (high end) and are t3h b3st.
Whats all this mean? An NGK that costs you a buck a piece at pep boys will do the exact same job as a 15 dollar denso in most applications. It just wont last to 100K miles before needing to be changed. BFD.
Last edited by HondaGuru; Apr 20, 2003 at 06:37 AM.
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From: San Diego, California, USA, Northern Hemisphere, Earth, Sol System, Spiral arm of the Milkey Way
Rep Power: 0 Originally posted by FlyRiceRacer02
Denso Iridium IK20 if you are running stock......and IK22 if you are running nitrous
Denso Iridium IK20 if you are running stock......and IK22 if you are running nitrous
i understand you...i also tell people the bosch plugs are useless and same as stock mabye worse that stock but what about iridium..they can only be better than stock....doesn't mean your going to feel a noticible difference..just like with many other mods done to our cars...I bet if i put some iridium plugs in my old 95 civic i would have felt a difference
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