reseting ECU after intake install??
Joined: Jul 2002
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From: Washington DC
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Pull the battery try to start the car (it will drain whatever power is left), wait for 10 minutes and reattach it, then let the car idle for about 10 minutes (don't touch the gas) that should get the ECU accustomed to the increased airflow. You'll have to drive it a little after that to get it used to the increase in air, but that worked for me. If you have the stock stereo, make sure you have the unlock code.
Ask me about your mom.
Joined: Jul 2002
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From: Ottawa, Ontario, Canada
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Yes...make SURE you reset the ECU.
otherwise you'll have to be patient, and wait longer for the performance gain [IMG]i/expressions/face-icon-small-smile.gif[/IMG]
I did mine right away, and instantly noticed a slight increase, whereas my friend plopped one in his impreza, and didn't notice a difference for a couple of days (probably about 100km's...or...uh...about 65miles).
otherwise you'll have to be patient, and wait longer for the performance gain [IMG]i/expressions/face-icon-small-smile.gif[/IMG]
I did mine right away, and instantly noticed a slight increase, whereas my friend plopped one in his impreza, and didn't notice a difference for a couple of days (probably about 100km's...or...uh...about 65miles).
Joined: May 2002
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From: Los Angeles (Downey), California, US
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just unscrew the black terminal of the battery for 10 minutes, then put it back on and turn on the car.....let it IDLE for 10 minutes... Enjoy.
All resetting the ECU does is set it back to the original settings for the best emissions. The only time you need to do that is if your car happens to fail an emissions test. Otherwise it doesn't do a thing for "recognizing" better airflow or anything else like that. Like you disconnedt the battery, wait, then hook it up, then let the car idle. Where's the extra air flow at idle?
All you need to do is drive the car under various conditions and it will settle in all by itself.
I've tried this both ways and all I got after the reset was poor gas mileage for 300 miles or so. I have come to believe, that unless you have a device to reprogram the ECU, VTEC, etc. the idea of just resetting the stock ECU at idle is a myth.
It is recommended to disconnect the negative battery terminal every time you work on your car, under the hood or do anything electrical, or even take off the front bumper (air bag problems?). So if you do that or if the shop disconnects your battery, all you need to do is reset your radio/CD player and just drive the car. Otherwise you would have to do that reset "idle" procedure each and everytime work is done to the car.
The reset procedure for emissions is in the owner's manual, so if you really just must do the reset, then follow that procedure. It includes driving at set speeds and driving at stop and go conditions. There is where your ECU will "learn" driving conditions, not just sitting and idling. In reality, just driving the car will do the same thing.
All you need to do is drive the car under various conditions and it will settle in all by itself.
I've tried this both ways and all I got after the reset was poor gas mileage for 300 miles or so. I have come to believe, that unless you have a device to reprogram the ECU, VTEC, etc. the idea of just resetting the stock ECU at idle is a myth.
It is recommended to disconnect the negative battery terminal every time you work on your car, under the hood or do anything electrical, or even take off the front bumper (air bag problems?). So if you do that or if the shop disconnects your battery, all you need to do is reset your radio/CD player and just drive the car. Otherwise you would have to do that reset "idle" procedure each and everytime work is done to the car.
The reset procedure for emissions is in the owner's manual, so if you really just must do the reset, then follow that procedure. It includes driving at set speeds and driving at stop and go conditions. There is where your ECU will "learn" driving conditions, not just sitting and idling. In reality, just driving the car will do the same thing.
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