2008 Civic LX Sedan not starting
#1
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2008 Civic LX Sedan not starting
It's automatic and has 155K miles, battery is ~2 months old from Costco - interstate one.
Resting voltage of battery is 12.6-12.65V. + and - cables are tight and clean.
It was running fine until last weekend and was parked since Sunday, today I went to start it and it's not starting.
While cranking battery light on the ODO stays on. Could it be an alternator or a starter? It does have fuel and makes a noise while cranking, but not that kind of noise which we usually here when car is good and about to start. No CEL or anything on ODO either, except battery light I mentioned above.
Thank you for any of your help.
Resting voltage of battery is 12.6-12.65V. + and - cables are tight and clean.
It was running fine until last weekend and was parked since Sunday, today I went to start it and it's not starting.
While cranking battery light on the ODO stays on. Could it be an alternator or a starter? It does have fuel and makes a noise while cranking, but not that kind of noise which we usually here when car is good and about to start. No CEL or anything on ODO either, except battery light I mentioned above.
Thank you for any of your help.
#3
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Re: 2008 Civic LX Sedan not starting
Yes it seems to be weak crank, but battery is less than 2 months old.
I'll try to jump start and see what happens, thanks for your advice
I'll try to jump start and see what happens, thanks for your advice
#4
If you think a good mechanic is expensive, try hiring a bad one
Re: 2008 Civic LX Sedan not starting
While cranking battery light
It is supposed to stay on until the engine is running and the alternator is charging.
Resting voltage of battery is 12.6-12.65V
Usually if it cranks slow, the battery is weak/drained, or the starter is on its way out. If the battery was run down in only a few days, it may have an excessive drain causing it to discharge the battery.
Occasionally I find ground cable connections in poor condition too.
Not sure if this pic will link, but this was a bolt that held a ground cable to the body, it had rusted enough to allow high resistance which caused arcing under high amperage load (during both starting and charging), and that had literally welded the washer to the bolt head and broken loose dozens of times to cause the metal to transfer from the bolt head to the washer:
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#5
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Re: 2008 Civic LX Sedan not starting
Thanks very much EZ, as usual.
I was over thinking it, pressed gas pedal a few times and cranked car while holding gas pedal and it started, it was brutally cold in last few days and I suspect fuel was having issued.
Drove it for 20-25 miles and started it 2-3 times and started on 1st crank.
Thanks again for your help
I was over thinking it, pressed gas pedal a few times and cranked car while holding gas pedal and it started, it was brutally cold in last few days and I suspect fuel was having issued.
Drove it for 20-25 miles and started it 2-3 times and started on 1st crank.
Thanks again for your help
#6
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Re: 2008 Civic LX Sedan not starting
Curious, is it a good idea to put anti-seize on ground bolts or just clean them and leave them alone? Asking for 2006 Civic though
#9
If you think a good mechanic is expensive, try hiring a bad one
Re: 2008 Civic LX Sedan not starting
The battery neg cable where it attaches to the body sometimes gets pretty ugly. There's another ground wire right behind that one that goes from body to the transmission that probably needs some help too. You might need to pull the battery out to get to it.
#11
If you think a good mechanic is expensive, try hiring a bad one
Re: 2008 Civic LX Sedan not starting
A typical scenario is someone starts the car to move it around in the driveway (20 feet)....then the next time they go to start it it won't.
Don't shut the engine off cold. Don't shut it off until it's been driven and is up to operating temperature.
I know that's not always possible, so it's best to know how to deal with it if it does happen.
Take apart the connections and use a wire brush/wheel or sandpaper to get clean, shiny metal on all contact areas:
*Both sides of the cable eyelet,
*the bolt threads and the underside of the hex head and washer
*the body IMO really should have the paint removed where that eyelet lays so there is bare metal to bare metal contact (electricity can't pass through paint)--the factory bolts the cable right to the painted surface, and the bolt threads are the only thing conducting electricity between the cable eyelet and the body.
Then grease the freshly exposed bare metal so it doesn't corrode right away
I like dielectric silicone grease, and sometimes I use plain ol wheel bearing grease but it can be messy
Don't shut the engine off cold. Don't shut it off until it's been driven and is up to operating temperature.
I know that's not always possible, so it's best to know how to deal with it if it does happen.
*Both sides of the cable eyelet,
*the bolt threads and the underside of the hex head and washer
*the body IMO really should have the paint removed where that eyelet lays so there is bare metal to bare metal contact (electricity can't pass through paint)--the factory bolts the cable right to the painted surface, and the bolt threads are the only thing conducting electricity between the cable eyelet and the body.
Then grease the freshly exposed bare metal so it doesn't corrode right away
I like dielectric silicone grease, and sometimes I use plain ol wheel bearing grease but it can be messy
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