penright

All in all, it drove good. Clutch seem to grab kind of quick (low to the floor) but not bad. I did not see any adjustments? There is some to take out the end play at the master cylinder. There was free play so I think it is ok. The only thing that concerned me was I thought it would take two quarts, I got about 1.8 in there. I told her to take it to someone who knows Honda and have them check it out. I figured it they charged her $50 or so, it cheaper then $550 they quoted her to do it. I wonder it $550 is too cheap? :-)

ezone

Correct on all parts.


It holds less than 2 quarts, more like 1.5 during a regular fluid change or 1.7 after overhaul.
If you filled until it ran out of the fill hole, you're golden. Save the $50. Just make sure the plugs are tight enough to not leak. Clean and dry under them so you can check in a few days?

penright

Here are my random thoughts on replacing a clutch kit on 8th gen Civic. All of these is base on the DYI of the 7th gen links from Swift Racing. Really if you read this post from the start it pretty much says what I fought. One lesson is parts to start with. The clutch kit we bought at O’Reilly had the clutch, pressure plate, throw out bearing, pilot bearing, and alignment tool (good). I also had a rear engine seal just in case (good). I rented a pilot bearing puller (good). The thing we did not get was trans fluid and a pump to get it into the trans. There are links though the post for DYI trans fluid change and links to a pump. For the most part you can follow the 7th gen DYI to get a feel. I did not have a lift, so I jack it up very high, and USED JACK STANDS. The tires were about 6” off the ground. Mostly the clearance has to do with us working under the car. I did not pull the bumper, you will have to remove the driver side inner wheel splash guard. Also remove the air box, battery box, and other brackets that will prevent the trans from sliding into the wheel well hole. Be sure and support the back of the trans as you remove the top motor mount on the trans side. As in the video we used the nuts back up to each other to remove the studs. One stud came out almost by hand, the other wanted to stick and brought some threads with it. If I had a tap and die of the correct size I would have chased them before putting it back together, it went back without issues, but I was carful. Now you can lower the jack and it will rest on the sub frame. We did not pull the sub frame through the process, but it defiantly takes two to wrestle the trans out and back in. The putting back in would have been easier if the sub frame was dropped and a transmission jack used. To get it back in, we had to do a dangerous exercise and use the bolts as guide pins. What make this dangerous is the temptation to use the bolts to pull the trans back in, if you do and things are not perfectly aligned YOU WILL BREAK something. Just like in the video, we pulled the axles by pulling the two nuts and one bolt, freeing the turning knuckle from the lower a arm. When it came time to pull the trans, we had to jack the engine up and down to find a sweet spot so there was enough room for the input shaft to come out. It did work. By pushing the trans at an angle and using a jack to hold it there, there is enough room. The pilot bearing was shot. The pilot bearing removal tool uses a slide hammer and there is not enough room. I was able to use the grab part of the tool, then rock it back and forth while pulling and some how it came out. My plan B was to pull the fly wheel, which I am sure to get grief for not doing. It looked good and did not appear to have been heated. Also, I read a lot not to resurface them, just replace them. If I have any issues later, I will come back and update this post. No news is good news. Since I did not pull the fly wheel, I can not say that would have worked.

As far as my skill level, I consider myself a good shade tree, with moderate set of tools. I have NO experience with Honda’s. I cannot thank ezone enough for all his help and confidence.