Trainingdragon

Ok I apologize if everyone has heard a ton of "clunk" threads. How about one more.

After 85,000 miles my 06 Civic EX Coupe has developed a clunk in what seems to be the passenger front side of the car ONLY when going over bumps. It's quite predominant when going over speed bumps. It sounds like the car is bottoming out a bump stop but could be just about anything. The dealer did a quick look but couldn't find anything. They did hear it though. It's quite loud and physical. You can tell it feels like the full weight of the car is coming down on something. Sounds bad actually. I got under the car but really couldn't see anything. It's pretty tight under there.

A friend of mine told me that the stock shocks are really only good for about 75,000 miles +/- and it very well could be a bad shock.

Any thoughts?

If shocks, what are a good replacement for the stock shocks. Don't want it too tight/bumpy but a little stiffening couldn't hurt. It's a daily driver and I don't want a rough ride.

Thanks.

ezone

Google
Honda bulletin 07-078
Honda bulletin 07-043

Both are for bumpstops, pay attention to the VIN# ranges and descriptions to see if either one applies to your car.
I have only had to replace a couple of struts on 8th gen Civic, it was for soft popping noise while turning the steering wheel. 7th gen was bad about strut noises even on small bumps.
Really, it could be anything from suspension to engine mounts. If you can't figure it out, get checked by a pro.

Gunner

Its def part of your suspension but like mentioned above just take it to the dealer for the mentioned bulletins..Also you can push down on your car over the passanger side and see if it makes the noise..maybe you will be able to isolate the noise.

Trainingdragon

Thanks for the input. I"ll check out the bulletins. I did push down as violently as I can on the passenger side (without denting the fender) and could not reproduce it. Had Honda check it out. They def heard the noise but could not find it without starting to take things apart and charge me a bunch of money to diagnose.

When you say bump stops, are you referring to inside the shock or on the body??

Gunner

Its at the top
If it is loose you would aslo get the clunk noise you are talking about...
The bump stop is part number 8 in the diagram below.

Trainingdragon

ok so do you think the bump stop is loose or bad?? Remember, 85,000 miles.

Trainingdragon

One more thing, if struts need to be replaced, any good recomendations? I want a nice comfy ride but wouldn't mind a little added stiffness on handling. it is a daily driver.

Trainingdragon

Any suggestions for front shocks/struts?

ezone

My only choice is factory, cuz I work at a dealer like that.

Trainingdragon

any place to buy factory parts cheaper than the dealer? I'm fine with on-line. Oh, do you know if it comes as a complete kit with new bump stops etc....

ezone

http://www.hondaautomotiveparts.com/...SHOCK+ABSORBER

You can buy the entire thing, spring and all, #3 or #4, (That would be everything within the outline that the #3 and #4 point at.)

Or you can buy the individual parts and build it yourself.

I just kinda picked a random version, so you really need to look up your own car here: www.hondaautomotiveparts.com (Their internet prices are about the same as my employee discount where I work.)

Someone really should check the car to see if your problem is really the struts. I hate wasting money and not solving the problem.

Trainingdragon

Thanks for the info. Oh and I agree. I'm not a big fan of replacing parts that don't need to be replaced. Sadly though, so far the dealer recognizes the noise, but can't find it. They are willing to dig deaper and investigate, but at my expense. Do you know how long shocks are supposed to last on these cars? A friend of mine who loves Hondas said they are really only good for about 75k. Does that sound right??

ezone

Throw a dart and replace parts.

There are some people that shoot for struts first for any complaint, regardless of the real cause. Think chain stores..."if we don't sell it, you don't need it".

In general, I would probably check everything else in the suspension, fix anything obvious first. Struts are sometimes the last things replaced (process of elimination) because they might never show obviously bad with just a visual exam unless they are leaking, or the noise is an already known "pattern failure" (7th gen). Unless the problem is obvious with a strut, it's just too hard to tear them apart (get the coil springs off) on a guess. The pressure of the coil spring and the weight of the car can make it very hard to tell if a strut is a problem.
Hell no, it ain't gonna be free to take down a strut after you are out of warranty. Even tearing them apart sometimes doesn't reveal any obvious problem, like internal damage.
(I have also seen several situations where the large nut on the top of the shaft comes loose, and on some vehicles you can't see or reach it until the strut is completely out of the car either, it can make a hell of a lot of odd noises. I mostly only see it after a strut got replaced and someone didn't get the nut tight enough.)

They are good, until they go bad.
If the factory had decided there is a replacement interval it would be listed in the maintenance section of the book.
Never any set mileage.
Some go bad early.
Some go bad after an impact (curb, etc.)
Some just ooze fluid out. (A small wet stain or oil film can be normal, it IS a hydraulic item. There is a difference between that and a real leak.)
We have tons of the cars running around with original parts after 150-200k+ and no apparent problems, still pass the bounce test and all. OTOH, we have some that got replaced while under warranty. So it varies widely. (An Odyssey with 380k, and another with 270k this week, original front struts, no complaints.)

These aren't like some other brands of cars that really did need struts after 30k.

Never believe the hype from shock absorber manufacturers that try to get you to believe that all shocks and struts must be replaced at 50k, that's some BS that serves THEIR interests, not yours.
Just like the myth of 3000 mile oil changes, that serves the interests of the Jizzylubes, not yours. There are a few people and vehicles that need oil changes that often, but the majority really don't.


Have you checked into the bump stopper issues yet?

Trainingdragon

Hey thanks for the great response.

No I haven't checked the bump stop issue yet. Are you talking about the bulletins or physically checking the bump stops on the car? Can you even check the bump stops without removing the entire assembly?

ezone

Well, both. The bulletins tell you what to look for, and if they even apply to your car. You have to see if your VIN# falls within the ranges listed in the bulletins. They put the VIN ranges in because they fixed the problem at the factory, so the bulletins only address the cars that got out before the factory fixed the problem on the production line.

IDK if you can tell without teardown either. I don't recall ever having to look for this problem myself.
You can raise the car so the wheels hang free, reach inbetween the spring coils and lift up the rubber boot to see if the stopper fell down. If you see the chrome shaft of the strut and not the fat rubber bump stopper, it might be ok. The stopper is supposed to be stuck up at the top of the assembly, not fallen down on top of the strut body.

Serious potholes or curb sized bumps can damage the stopper too. "Bottoming out the strut" is what the stopper is supposed to prevent.

Trainingdragon

Do you know where I can find out more about those bulletins? I tried googling them but didn't seem to get anywhere. Can you recommend a site or URL address?

ezone

I got factory info but you won't be able to see it and I can't C&P due to copyright issues.
Sometimes I find stuff with google. 8thcivic has a lot, so does driveaccord.

You might try www.alldatadiy.com/

07-043: http://www.8thcivic.com/forums/mecha...ml#post1107579

07-078 http://www.8thcivic.com/forums/mecha...ml#post2671546 (not sure you can use the link here, use IE to try the "in.honda" link.)

This might be useful too:
http://angelo.mandato.com/2007/07/22...nt-suspension/

Trainingdragon

I was able to view the 07-043 bulleting, but not the 078. Know anywhere I can view that one?

ezone

Gee, that's funny. I can read it just fine.
http://www.in.honda.com/Rjanisis/pubs/SB/A07-078.PDF
Oh wait. I have a subscription. I was already logged in when I clicked the link.

Buy a subscription to the Alldata site or the Honda site. AlldataPro has it, so I would assume the DIY site would have it too. http://www.alldatadiy.com/buy/
If you wanna play mechanic, you really should have repair info. It would only be common sense.

Your mechanic should have a sub to at least Alldata or Mitchell. Most (not all) bulletins are listed in both of those sources.

The dealer has a sub to the Honda site. Maybe they could print a copy of the bulletin for you.

Maybe you can find something through AutoZone.
http://www.autozone.com/autozone/rep....diyprod3-b2c6

Try your public library. Many of them have a sub to MItchell or Alldata that you can use.

----------------------------------------

I can't hotlink directly, nor can I C&P from either site due to copyright issues.

Here's some highlights of 07-078


pop or clunk from the front suspension area
when driving over bumps. This usually occurs after
completing a tight full lock turn.

The front bump stops become dislodged and then pop
back into place

All 2006–10 Civic 2 and 4-door, plus 2011 models have VIN# breaks.


Replace both front bump stops, and glue them in place

Bump Stop (two needed):
2-door -part# 51722-SVA-A04 (4 door gets a different part#)
Adhesive # 08712-0007

Trainingdragon

Ok great. That helps. Thanks. It seems like it just may be coming down to the bump stops. I'll have to get the car in the air and the let the suspension drop and see if I can see any other possiblities. Bump stops are cheap enough, just a bit of work to replace.

Thanks again.