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Switching from Drums to Rotors in the Rear?

Old 04-13-2010
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Switching from Drums to Rotors in the Rear?

I'm looking to switch the brakes in the back of my 95 DX. Does anyone know of a kit that I can buy or am I going to have to get one from a junkyard off of another civic?
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Old 04-13-2010
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Re: Switching from Drums to Rotors in the Rear?

94-01 integra, apparently

found this on another forum
I have a 1995 Civic EX coupe, and have done this rear disc conversion twice. The first time was a set of GSR rear discs, and the second was the DC2 ITR 5 lug.

The best way to go is use the full rear trailing arm assembly with rear discs already installed. I know for a fact that the 92-00 EG/EJ/EK Civics and 94-01 DC Integras have the exact same trailing arms. The ones with the discs are all the Integras, the 92-95 Civic Si EG hatch, the 93-97 Del Sol Si/Del Sol VTEC, and the 99-00 Civic Si coupe. JDM rear disc brakes of the previously listed cars are no different. They all have 9 inch rear rotors and 4 x 100 lug patterns. The only excpetion is the DC2/EK9 ITR/CTR 5 lug with 10 inch rear rotors and 5 x 114.3 lug pattern.

Between all those, most of them come with lower control arms with the provisions to add a rear swaybar. Some of the 92-95 Civics with rear discs had lower control arms that DID NOT have provisions to add a rear swaybar.

You will also need the e-brake cables associated with those rear discs. You cannot use your existing rear drum e-brake cables. Since each of the rear disc Hondas have different wheelbases and chassis configurations, go with the e-brake cables for the 92-95 Civic coupe or sedan w/rear discs. 94-01 DC Integra e-brake cables will also work.

The installation process is very straightforward. If you don't have one, invest in a Helm's service manual from www.helminc.com.

Disconnect the e-brake cable, disconnect the brake line, unbolt the strut mount and possible sway bar mounts, unbolt the upper and lower control arms, unbolt the toe adjustment bolt (the forwardmost bolt of the trailing arm), and lastly unbolt the two bolts for the trailing arm pivot bushing (forward of the wheelwell). For the e-brake cables, you will have to drop the exhaust B-pipe to get access. You will also have to remove the center console between the seats to get to the e-brake cable connection.

Installation is the exact opposite of removal. When you install the new e-brake cable, make sure that you fully loosen the adjustment between the seats. Once the brakes are fully installed, then tighten the adjustment so the brakes begin to engage at the 3rd click of the e-brake handle.

Next you will need to refill and bleed the brake fluid. But before you do, I HIGHLY RECOMMEND that you upgrade the master cylinder/brake booster combo, as well as the brake proportioning valve. Your existing 13/16" master cylinder will only last for so long with the new rear discs. When it fails, your brakes will fail, and the pedal will travel to the floor. You will need the larger master cylinder and brake booster combo from a Honda with rear discs. The easiest one to use is the 15/16" one from the 94-01 Integra RS WITHOUT ABS. Your brake line fittings will directly line up with no problems. If you go with any other master cylinder and brake booster from a car that HAD ABS, then your existing brake lines will need to be rebent, cut, and reflared to line up.

As far as the brake proportioning valve goes, the best choice is the one from the 92-95 Civic Si EG hatch with rear discs. It is a direct drop in replacement. The valve is located directly behind the intake manifold on the firewall. If you don't change the prop valve, then your new rear discs will lock up easier.

When you are working with brake line fittings, they all are 10mm nuts. But don't use a regular 10mm box wrench. Instead, use a 10mm flare nut wrench. That will prevent the nut from getting rounded.

Once all is installed, then fill the brake fluid, bleed in the proper sequence (LR, RF, RR, LF) per the manual, and check for leaks.
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Old 04-14-2010
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Re: Switching from Drums to Rotors in the Rear?

thanks for the information. it seems like i need to go to a junkyard and find a 92-95 hatch si and get the rear out of it. ten four.
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