Rep Power: 250

This is something that I wish I would have done with my Kswap, but the process was to intense and time consuming to do a step by step process. I know that there is a DIY on this, but I thought I would go to it every step of the way from begining to end.

Today I have just recieved my swap in the mail This was a very hard item to find I ended up getting the brakes from an 02 Si with less than 50K on it. They were shipped all the way to Ohio from Oregon. When buying them I specified that they had to be 4 lug (for those that don't know the newer models 04 and 05 civic Si had 5 lug brakes) and I needed everything including the e-brake cables and any hardware. Well, as you can tell from the pics I got everything and much much more LOL. I will not use half of the stuff that I got, but it is always good to have extra parts laying around. What I don't use (the entire lower control/rear tie assembly) will be sold on ebay.

I ended up getting all of this for $375 shipped, which considering that it weighted 125lbs I figured this was not to bad of a deal. Also pictured are the stainless lines that I will install on both the front and rear brakes ($100).

Still left to buy are hawk hps pads for the rear to match the ones on the front ~$50, motal DOT 4 fluid ~$12 a bottle x3, and to get these rotors turned ~$12 (asided from the rust they actually look really good).

The next step will be to sort through all of the parts and figure out just what I will need and to remove the calipers and rotors so I can fix the bent dust sheilds and paint the calipers. I will post as I go.

 
Rep Power: 294

well good luck in the install, dont think you will need it, its pretty simple. i did my type s brake swap and it was gravy work.....only hard part for me to do was the alignment job since my car was pretty low(had to put wooden blocks in front of the ramp to get my car on the alignment rack) also all i can say is have fun with the swap when its done cuz i love it! but i have the types brakes on mine, but it should be alot better than stock....lol

 
Rep Power: 250

Ok I now have everything taken apart and the parts that I need sorted from the parts that I don't. The pics are the parts that I will need, and as you can see I recived alot more parts than I needed. The total time it took to disassemble the brakes was roughly 30 min. The next step will be to clean everything up, check everything out to be sure that it is performing properly, fix the bent dustshields, paint the calipers, get the rotors turned, order new pads, and then reassemble everything.

 
Rep Power: 272

good luck it should be an easy swap

 
Rep Power: 388

looks good. rusty though *sigh* anyways.. should be fun, nice break lines

from oregon huh... where in oregon??

 
Rep Power: 250

yeah, swap should be a pieice of cake, much easier than my Kswap LOL. I just thought it would be cool to see from the begining to the end. The rust will come off when the turn the rotors and I am not to sure from where in Oregon.

 
Rep Power: 0

What about a brake proportioning valve?

 
Rep Power: 250

You don't need to worry about that if you have ABS. If you do not then it is my understanding that you will have more of a rear brake bias. This, however would be good for autox because it would reduce the tendacy for the car to "dive" under hard braking. It would however make trail braking a bit different. So my question is if I disengage my ABS for events will I have a rear brake bias??

 
Rep Power: 424

disabling ABS just keeps them from going off. It does nothing to the front rear split.
If you want more rear bias, put some high friction pads in the back.

FYI to everyone else, there's a huge DIY thread in the other WT&B forum, all the basics have been covered in gory detail