Rep Power: 0

Background: ( I'm not a mechanic - just an end user. ) We bought this 2002 Civic EX with Vtec, in September 2015. By spring, it needed a transmission rebuild. The company that did it was messed up ( the guy's brother was a junkie, and stealing from him. They later went out of business. ) and when they pulled it, they broke the wires in the connector going to the startup temp sensor up front. They repaired the wires, but did a lousy job. I've had this great mechanic for about the same time period. I've described him as honest, reasonably priced and very competent. Been happy with him and his guys, for all this time. They repaired the wires, but because they had been ripped out of the connector, we've kept having problems with them, on and off. They finally ( a few months ago ) put torpedo lugs in, instead of that connector, which they tell me are soldered.

So a couple of months ago, we needed a new AC compressor. They did it, but shortly after, the engine light went on, and they said that it was giving the same error as that temp sensor wiring. So they checked it all out and said that the wiring is ok, but that somehow, when they removed the AC compressor down there, the ECU must have "gotten jostled" and they're saying that the ECU needs replacing now, at a cost of around $1500 ( I think they're assuming, with a new one from the dealer. ) One of their guys has been to the junk yard twice, but unable to find a used one, And the one in there was a used one, that they put in for me a couple of years ago, so they said it could have gone out, too, when the compressor was removed.

I KNOW that these guys arent trying to rip me off - I trust them implicitly. But jeez, $1500 for something that happened when they replaced the compressor? I understand that they don't want to eat that cost either, but I'm frustrated with this and don't know what to do. And my own work involves minor investigations, and it's bugging me that coincidentally, the error code that won't go away, is coming from that same line. It's too much of a coincidence. So I asked them to buzz it out again and they said that the sensor is reading about 5 ohms and the wiring is about another ohm, in that loop. ( I'm a former electronics R&D technician )

But I'm really frustrated by this. But as a former electronics tech, I had some experience with parts procurement in that field ( not cars ). So I looked on Google, and see a refurbed ECU for $178. Plus their labor, which could be expensive, because it needs programming by a specialty guy they work with. And who can I trust, buying it from someone I find on Google. I've developed a deep distrust of Ebay lately, for example, after buying some home air filter replacements ( Hepa and pounds of carbon ) that were sold as "new but open box", but seem to be at the end of their life, and by the time I found out, it was too late to get a refund, or even give bad feedback.

But I'm very ambivalent about all of this. I don't want to lose this mechanic. He's nearby, and has been great. Yet I'm frustrated with having to pay for this, and now maybe having to search for something to make it cost less, and still pay for it. ( It might wind up costing me $700 instead of $1500 ).

Also frustrated with this car, which has been costing us about $5000 a year in repairs since we got it. I mean, it was a $15,000 car originally, and has cost us about $20k since 2015, which is crazy. I just don't know what to do on this one, and I'm 71 years old and cant even think of doing it myself. ( not a mechanic )

 
Rep Power: 230

No books please. I think you already know the answer you seek.

-Find a new mechanic
-always get a second opinion and quote if you're unsure.

Used ecu install should be $200, perhaps $1500 if new from dealorship.

-$100 in parts (if used) and $100 for time (even though a swap takes 10-20 minutes).

There is no reason the ecu would fail from removing the ac compressor, unless they massively fu**** up.

 
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Thanks Dr. Sorry for the long post, but I thought it was relevant.

So are these ECU's pretty much "plug and play", where they don't require "programming" by an outside party? ( As long as I get one specifically for a 2002 Civic EX Vtec? )

When you're saying $200 installed, is that a big city price or a small town? Does that mean that the actual ECU can be found by me, for around $100, plus maybe an hour of mechanic labor?

 
Rep Power: 225

Just to note if the alternator bolts are not correctly tightened it damages the ECU, this is a fairly common issue on the 7th gen. The alternator had to be removed to replace the a/c compressor...

If replacing the ECU you have to get one with the same part number. Then your keys have to be programmed into the ECU at a Honda dealer. You could also bypass the immobilizer to avoid this step but then you will have a light in the dash on all the time.

 
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Ah, thanks Super!

Looking on Ebay, it appears that the one that will work is the 37820-PSA-J83

This one looks nice, but I need to verify that the p/n is correct.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Jdm-02-05-H...pe!80226!US!-1

Also not sure if these Japanese imports are a good idea.

 
Rep Power: 230

You'll need to match 3 categories for the ecu to work

-year: 2001-2003 vs 2004-2005
-type: auto vs manual vs cvt
-vtec option: vtec vs non

Call honda, not sure in your case if they need the car there before you pull the ecu or if you can code the new ecu alone before install. (Mine cost $90-120 cad, been a few years)

-disconnect battery
-open glove box and empty
-remove the two lock pins inside glovebox
-remove 4 screws under glovebox
-remove glove box itself.

-cant quite remember but I think I removed a metal bar that goes across the bottom glove box area, few small bolts. Then flexed the plastic trim piece that goes across the bottom of the glove box area.

-unplug ecu
-remove the bolts that hold it in (I think 3 10mm)

-reinstall.

 
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I'm not replacing it myself. I need to find a used one for the mechanic. But I called a parts place, gave them the VIN and they gave me the p/n.
....This is weird. From my VIN, they told me 37820-PLR-439. But when I Google that number, ALL I get are "Genuine Honda Parts". Did they create that number JUST to avoid people being able to buy used ones and save $1300?

 
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I would say take it to another shop. I,m an ASE master tech and former Honda Platinum level tech. If you do need an ecm, I got one with an immobilizer, ignition switch and key for $130 from ebay. Again , I say take it to another shop.

 
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Have you tried www.car-part.com for a used ECM? That website will allow you to pretty much search all the salvage yards, from the East Coast to the West Coast of the USA & Canada.

 
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Thanks, just did. No one has a 37820-PLR-439, which is why I still suspect that Honda Parts assigned that for only new ECU's.

My mechanic offered to put it up on the rack and get the number of the one in there now. I think I will. Thanks.