IReadALot

Today, I decided to make the jump from Lurker to Participant.

First thing l'd like to say is thank you to all the members of this forum. The endless threads and content has helped guide me to keeping the maintenance cost of my Honda Civic to a reasonably low amount. You have all helped me go from complete newbie to reasonably informed.

However, today I'm at a bit of a cross-roads as to the next steps to take to ensure the long life of my old civic. So for those of you still reading, I'd love to hear your thoughts and opinions.

The Curious Case of the 05 Honda Civic DX - Auto Tranny
Let's begin this story on my parents drive-way. Upon this drive-way sat a 2005 Honda Civic DX, parked, unused and untouched for 3 WHOLE YEARS!. Season in and season out. Hot Summers and Cold Winters (here in Canada).

Why it sat there you may ask? It's because my mom lost both keys and neither my parents wanted to bother with acquiring a replacement key. Knowing now what I know about cars, I'm ashamed that it came to this point in the first place. Not too long ago, it was brought to my attention that the car would be disposed of (WHAT WHY?!?!).

So on a cool October afternoon I began the steps of getting this fine machine back on the road. Listed below is a recap of the maintenance cost incurred up to this date. Prices in ($CDN) plus tax unless stated otherwise. Please bear in mind at the beginning of this journey I knew virtually nothing about car maintenance.

Starting Mileage on the Dash: 276,000 kms (171,500 miles)

Getting it on the road:
Towing car to dealership - $80 (no tax)
New blank key - $87.64
Coding key - $64.99
Oil & filter change - $54.99
Battery test & recharge - $60 (had to boost initially, but charge wouldn't hold)

1st problem - Loud whining sound while steering left or right
Honda PS Fluid - $8.99 (Did the extraction from reservoir with turkey baster, ruined mom's baster. Sound was still there.)
Honda PS Pump O-Ring - $2.99 (Saw a video mentioned on youtube - did it and sound went away)

2nd problem - Leaking PS fluid, reservoir slowly dropping levels.
Rislone Power Steering Repair - $11.99 (used it all up as reservoir levels dropping. this did nothing, leaked continued)
2 - Honda PS Fluid Bottles - $15.98 (was not in rush to repair, as it was a slow leak. there were more important repairs required at the time)

3rd problem - Vibrating brakes (plenty of time was spent researching local mechanic that focused on brakes at competitive pricing.)
2 Front Calipers - $45 (no tax)
2 Front Rotors - $70 (no tax)
Labour - $75 (no tax) & $10 (tip)

The mechanic quoted me $190 for entire repair, it was going to be a little higher but after inspecting break pads, he said plenty padding left so it didn't need to be replaced. He also put a front headlight for free (I actually attempted a diy watching youtube videos and failed miserably).

4th problem - Front left headlight & High beam right light
Sylvania Lowbeam Bulb - $27.99 (worked)
Sylvania Highbeam Bulb - $32.99 (replacement didn't work, also tested fuse box, fuse chip works, issue to still be determined.)

5th problem - Cylinder Head Cap replacement
Cylinder Head Cap - $12.99
O-ring - $3.93
EGR Gasket - $7.94
Labour - $40 (no tax)

The rest of head cover gasket was also seeping oil, but this area seemed to be leaking out more so than the other areas. Paid friend of a friend.

6th problem - very loud squeaking back brakes
Bosch Brake Shoes - $22.99
2 Brake Drums - $76.99
Labour - $80 (no tax)

In hindsight, probably didn't need to do this job (or even replace brake drums). Cleaning brakes and resurfacing the drums would have been fine. It's just at the time, I was comparison shopping Canadian Tire vs Midas vs My Local Brakes Mechanic. I was getting ridiculous quotes from the chains ($400 & Up for rear brakes) also was given free consultation from local mechanic. He determined my PS leak coming from return line (while replacing the back brakes). For PS leak repair he gave me a round quote of $200 cause he couldn't determine of metal parts corroded out until he pulled apart the lines.

Re - 2nd problem - PS Fluid Leaking from return line
PS metal return pipe - $41.99
Labour & rubber tubing - $60 (no tax)
Honda PS Fluid - $8.99

Co-worker recommended seeing his mechanic since he specialized in Japanese models and engine bay work, as apposed to brakes. Turns out only rubber lines need replacing and tightening. Now, I have the metal return pipe sitting in my trunk.

7th Problem - Car vibrating at 35-50kms/h (20-30mph)
4 Michelin Defenders 185/70/14 - $420

This forum came really in handy, I remember reading a long thread at the time as to why a car would vibrate as specific speeds then go away. After some self-diagnosis and confirmation at a small tire shop (dry-rot and cracking found on 3 of the 4 tires).

8th Problem - No heat
2 Prestone Universal Coolant Jugs - $25.98 (only used quarter of jug for first refill kept the rest until needed to use it)

Again this forum came in clutch, topped of coolant and voila. After this 8th problem I've had many miles of smooth problem free driving...

That is until I really started testing the Civic on long drives, to Montreal, Ottawa, Niagara Falls, New York, Cleveland, etc.

And after 3 oil changes later at 294,500 kms (182,700 miles), I've come across a problem which I believe maybe an expensive fix.

A blown head gasket...

The only reason, I haven't gone to my mechanic yet is because I feel he will only confirm what I feel to be the case. Something I dread.

At first, I could not determine the source of the coolant leak....but it was happening rarely. After to a few more long road trips, I've been able to determine condition of how and when it happens.

It turns out the "leak" was coming near coolant reservoir cap. Or rather, the radiator cap was releasing coolant into reservoir overfilling the reservoir thus shooting a bit around the engine bay. It's gotten to the point where the reservoir level doesn't drop down to normal position anymore. I manually pump coolant out of reservoir.
Below are the conditions which create the overflowing coolant:

2+ Hours Long Driving @ 120kmph/75mph & Revs 3.5K
2+ Hours Long Driving @ 100kmph/60mph & Rev 2.25K + Air Conditioner Medium Strength.

In all other driving conditions, there are no apparent coolant issues. Can do long drives at slower speed with no a/c or heat (2.25 Revs or less). When topping off system I ensure to bleed out all the air possible until the bubbles stop turn off engine then close cap.

- Both Fans Are Working
- Replaced Coolant Cap
- Coolant has been drained and refilled twice
- Thermometer has only been above half-way point 3 times. In all cases was low on coolant, pulled over immediately let car cool-down and re-topped off.

An opinion I received is that my engine is revving too high for the speed that I'm driving, that there's no point in addressing the coolant issue (possible head gasket) until I've remedied the high revving. Ultimately, the goal is the get it back to having the capability of taking it for long summer drives. But if that is no longer a feasible/affordable option, it will forever remain to be caged in the suburbs on Toronto.

Thank you for reading this far. Thoughts and opinions are greatly appreciated. In the postscript I'll write down other maintenance I did that wasn't super critical but did anyways.

Cheers & Long Live The Civic,
-IReadALot


Other Maintenance:
Timing Belt & Water Pump - $450 (parts and labour - continental belt, denso water pump)
Honda ATF 3 Liters - $32.99
NGK Plat Spark Plugs - $23.99
Engine Cover Gasket Kit - $45.99
Labour on the above 3 jobs - $90 (no tax)

Short story: when I asked my father about the maintenance history, specifically about the timing belt and water pump. He said, "No, I only did the oil changes, brakes and tires. All that extra stuff is dealership bullshit". Needless to say I did the Timing belt as soon as I could afford to do so, because I didn't like the idea to my valves smashing into my pistons...

mac25

Welcome

Slumpertcivic

Welcome to the other side of lurking on a forum! /smile.

Indeed your head gasket has most certainly failed. From the sound of it yours is still small, but most likely the “gap” will open up further with time.

Other have reported theirs so bad they can’t get more than 10s miles before it displaces the coolant and they start to overheat.

For now, just be sure to keep a jug of coolant in the boot and keep a watchful eye on the temp gauge until you can have it fixed.

IReadALot

Thank you for taking the time to read my long winded post.

Yes, I actually do keep coolant in the trunk. I'll keep y'all posted. But this point I'm leaning toward those not recommended gasket sealers via coolant system. It's difficult to justify dropping a lot more money into this project car. But I've come to love it and want to see it going another 100k. So torn :O

Colin42

Wouldn't be that hard to diy the head gasket, or buy a known good motor and swap that in. Don't put the sealant crap in.

IReadALot

Hi Colin,

From my understanding beginning my DIY career with Head Gasket job may not be the wisest choice. This coming from someone who thought they were hot sh*t for being able to complete a simple oil change.

With that said you make a great point, should I take the expensive solution might as well get a new engine, especially considering the milage (294,000kms) on my current one. I also read that should resurfacing be required on the head, it often fails shortly afterwards because they are composed of aluminium. Further tipping the scales in favour of going with the new engine route.

So then here’s my counter-point: why not use the gasket sealer as a temporary solution until my engine finally goes out?

From what I’ve read, there may potential to damage your radiator, heater core and water pump. But that only applies to some sealers. The 2 I’m considering at the moment are Steel Seal or K&W Nano Tech Sealer.

Unless there are more serious drawbacks to consider, I don’t see the folly in my current course of action.

Slumpertcivic

The sealant stuff is meant to keep coolant inside. It does not stop pressurized combustion gasses from exiting the top of the combustion chamber into the water jacket.

So best case senario, the sealant gets pushed out of the overflow along with coolant and gets all over your engine.

Bad case the sealant reacts to the combustion gases and starts curing inside your cooling system and clogging everything up.

Worst case, it clogs up your radiator cap and you blow something to pieces along with a lot of hot steamed coolant.

Agree a lower mileage engine makes sense. Still a lot of work involved.

Colin42

if you plan on keeping this car do not use sealant, as slumpertcivic said its designed to keep coolant in, not keep out the exhaust forcing its way into the coolant.
got any gearhead friends that could help you with the job?

NDNV

That's going to be a tough decision as you have put a lot into it lately only to be faced with a major repair now. Sometimes it's to our own demise that we become so attached to our vehicles we don't know when to say when.

IReadALot

Yup. When I first took it on, I had the naive notion of making it to 500,000kms. But alas, it does not appear to be in the cards.

Slumper and colin thanks for all the advice and knowledge. Best to do nothing, stack my chips until I can afford to pay. Hopefully, I will have not driven it in to the ground by then.

I have friends of friends that are on that level of repair skill. It would only be right to pay fair market price regardless.

Tim1959

Welcome to the forum IReadALot. You also write a lot (this is a good sign)! :-)
It sounds like you do indeed have a blown head gasket. I recently bought a '02 Civic LX (D17A1). The head gasket blew after only a few weeks of ownership. I had similar symptoms. I learned that it is very common on these cars.
DO NOT put ANYTHING in the cooling system except coolant or distilled water! Per Honda recommendations.
Replacing a head gasket on a Honda would be a large and difficult job for a DIY newbie. Best to leave it to the pros. Shop around. Stick with Honda specialists.
I did the head gasket on my car myself, but I have many years of experience and training.
My head had to be shaved by a local machine shop. You MUST pay attention to all the wear limit specifications on all engine parts from Honda.
Regards,
Tim