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Alright, so I am getting a new head for my D16Z6 that had a Stage 2 cam in it & some Ferra valves.

I was wondering if the stages of parts have specific meaning, or just .. meaner?

I know I have seen Stage TURBO cams... obviously for turbo.

Which brings me to the next upgrade for my car. Light weight flywheel & Clutch.

I wanna get a 7.5 or 8.5 flywheel & ... Idk if I should get the Stage 2 or Stage 3 clutch kit. I figured Stage 3, since its only a few dollars more. But before I go and mess something up and put 2 and 2 together.. I wanna make sure it is the right choice.

 
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Different stages can take different amounts of torque. You wouldn't wanna have a ton of power on a stock clutch, as it won't able to handle it and it'll fail prematurely. Plus, the greater stages are a bit heavier with the pedal IIRC.

 
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Yeah. Word. Just as I imagined. Last night I talked to my friend that swapped a b18 and a b20 before. He said basically stage 2 will keep you steady/slowly gaining speed going uphill. and stage 3, youll be able to floor it, and actually get put back into the seat.

:P Just want I am looking for. Thanks again. I just wasn't sure if perhaps each stage required any other parts. Like a Stage 3 clutch on a stock bottom end, or something. Had to ask.

 
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Oh man unless you have a turbo an race with your car, a freakin stage 3 clutch will feel like **** and grab in an instant. it does NOT make your car faster. there designed to handle loads of instant torque, the likes of which a stock civic will never see. and the lightweight fllywheel? you will have NO low end torque. you have been warned. stage 2 and up are for basically racing purposes and theres a reason behind that LOL
same with the stage 2 cam. i see the future...engine swap (cause it blew)!! LOL

 
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It depends A LOT on what brand "stage 2" cam it is. Almost every brands stage 2 is designed to give good midrnage torque and I nice boost in top end power while making it breathe well enough to handle somewhere around 8k rpm. You'll be perfectly fine using it with an otherwise stock engine unless you plan to run a higher redline then I'd use stiffer valve springs.
As for the clutch I've tried a bumch of different ones in different cars through the years everything from stage 1 to stage 5. Once again this depends a lot of the brand but almost all brands the stage one is a slight increase over stock power handling using a slightly heavier pressure playe and mostly stock organic full face disc. They feel basically stock and if you slip them or over power them a lot they'll heat and slip worse and explode to kitty hair like stock.

Stage 2s are a tiny heavier on the pressure plate and almost always have a full face kevlar or carbon/kevlar disc that will take MUCH more abuse and slipping than organic and hold like 40-50 percent more power than stock usually. They feel a little grippier than stock but definitely still heavy traffic streetable.
Stage 3 comes with a decently heavy pressure plate and either a 6 puck or 4 puck disc depending on company and sometimes they give you a choice. Usually made of "miba" or sometimes carbon and will take a ton more abuse than stock and can be slipped a decent amount and won't ever explode, they'll just eat and warp your flywheel. They're still streetable but can be kind of annoying in heavy traffic as they're pretty grabby and can be chattery sometimes at low rpm. a few companies like spec also offer a full face disc that lasts longer and handles more power and is way streetable in the stage 3 kits.
Stage 4 comes either pucked or full face but it made of a very grippy material and usually loses the sprung hub for a solid one which is NOT streetable (the previous stages all almost always come sprung) and have a pretty stiff pressure plate.
Stage 5 is unsprug again, almost always made of sintered iron which grips well but eats flywheels and doesn't last long. These come with very stiff pressure plates and is only for race use.
Aside from those there's twin and triple disc clutches which handle massive amounts of power and feel stock while driving, and you can slip themas much as you want without worry.
A lot of companies will let you combine packages ( I have a stage 5 pressure plate and stage 2 carbon disc so its long lasting, totally streetable but grips amazing. Also made it so I can feel the clutch, stock one on the civic felt like I could push it down with my dick .)

 
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Sounds pretty comprehensive!

 
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Oh and I've put a lightweight flywheel in every car I've ever done a clutch job including my old awd eclipse and it doesn't really make hardly any difference for how it feels down low but it definitely revs a hell of a lot faster. My d15 that's stock revs like a crotch rocket nowand didn't lose enough low end torque to make it noticeable. I have an 8 lb chromoly too which is drilled all around the edge and just inside the friction surface making it have a lot less rotational mass than a solid aluminum flyhweel that's 8lbs since most of the weight is in the center of the flywheel closest to the fulcrum.