Rep Power: 0

I just got my car back from a new shop for me to try that works on Honda's and Nissan's. I got the rear trailing arm bushings replaced and toe end links as well because they were seized, broken and such from a bad rear end accident long ago. I also got a valve adjustment done cause it's been awhile.

So I have seen the bushings and such are new and now quiet when they weren't before. The shop said they did an alignment but it's nowhere on the paperwork and no before and after printout. They said they did it but forgot to include the printout. The car is still pulling to the right like it used to.

New problem is the car is bogging down again like struggling to switch gears (automatic) and the rpm guage is fluttering when I'm at steady speeds. It feels like it wants to surge or cut off. Just feels weird. The distributor marks seem to be just a very Tad bit off from lining up. But there's like chip marks on top like someone took a flat head screwdriver and banged on the top end marks. I don't know if that makes sense.

Could an incorrect valve adjustment cause these symptoms? Maybe a vacuum leak or something? Plan on taking it back but I am sick at the moment and have a new job that has me working exactly the time when the shop is open. Am going to write them and tell them too.

 
Rep Power: 517

It happens. When our printer runs out of paper I don't always have the time to hunt down some more.
Now you need that printout.
Is it a pull, or is the steering wheel merely off center?
If you let go of the steering wheel, does it track straight or does it try to kill you?



Maybe someone dinked with it? Swapped as a test? Stole it?
I know I make a small chisel type mark if I have to pull one out, that way I can reinstall it in the same spot and not need to time it with a light.

Makes me think of this bulletin:

http://www.tegger.com/hondafaq/p0420/A05-027.pdf

 
Rep Power: 0

hello again!

Well, I got the printout today all seems well on that. Did not try the "try to drive straight" test today. The guy said about that that it wasn't the alignment but a radial tire pull. Said if they rotated the tires it would fix the problem most definitely.

Also said for the front right tire sound (original complaint when I brought it in the first time...) that they "re-torqued the upper control arm bushing" and that solved the noise issue. Have no clue about this one. I'm not an expert when it comes to chassis stuff. The sound appears to be gone. But I will keep listening for it for a few days. (it took a day to come back the first time...)

As for the bogging and surging he is trying to say it's the lock up feature(?) on the torque converter messing up possibly. He said he didn't know if that was the original transmission or not and that maybe changing the fluid would help. I informed him about the transmission and how it has been rebuilt and it just had its check up a week before I brought the car to him. He said to take it back to the transmission people and have them check into it.

The problem is, the car has been running excellent since the one mechanic messed with distributor. The gas mileage had returned there was no shifting problems, everything was great. Then I get this valve adjustment and it's back to **** again. The gas mileage went down, the car sounds rougher, and the whole bogging issue is really bad. I was watching the needle today flutter from 2000 to 2500 rpms fast back and forth at 65 mph. It worries me that it might be hurting the engine. But I don't know. Plan on taking it back to the mechanic who messed with the distributor and fixed the issue before in hopes he can solve this issue. Might be next tuesday that that has to happen though.

 
Rep Power: 517

Swap the front tires side to side and see if the pull now goes the opposite direction.
THAT proves tire pull.

THEN you can rotate them front to rear--- one side at a time, test drive after each side gets done--- to determine exactly which front tire was causing it.

This is what we have to do when we have tire problems under warranty, we must figure out which ONE tire to replace.




Tach is the only thing affected?
The engine RPM isn't actually changing?
Trans is not actually shifting gears?


Did you read the bulletin I linked? PRINT IT OUT and hand it to the mechanic.

Same issue??

 
Rep Power: 0

The dancing about that the rpm needle does is followed with the car's hesitation and feeling like it's gonna shut off. It's also taking longer to shift gears. Like sometimes going up to 6000 rpms before finally shifting over to the higher gear. This could be because of the a/c running at times and its so hot outside. But I haven't tested that theory with the a/c being off. I'm saying that I don't know if it happens all the time or only when the a/c is on when it comes to taking longer to shift.

I do know that the needle dancing around and bogging and feeling unstable happens regardless of the a/c being on or off. I was doing a little research and read this problem could be the ignitor in the distributor going bad? Does that sound like a good educated guess? There are NO engine check lights on with my car right now. I did read your bulletin but didn't really get it since there is no CEL on my car.

If the ignitor could be a problem where can I get an OEM one? They don't appear to be available on the Majestic Honda website where I normally look up OEM parts...If not available through OEM is it okay to get aftermarket?? Thanks.

One more note maybe worth mentioning. My a/c has been working hard the last couple of days. We are getting 105 degree heat index weather. When I turn it on it makes this kind of rattling, grinding noise possibly. Not sure what it could be. I know you probably need to hear it but just thought maybe you might know like say if the blower motor is going out it might make a certain noise. Thanks again.

 
Rep Power: 517

I don't think it is the igniter right now.
Ignitor typically QUITS causing 'no spark', they don't normally cause the coil to fire extra sparks. Yours sounds like it has extra sparks happening.

Forget about the light and code in the bulletin.
The FIX inside the distributor is what you need to be concerned with.
(I linked the bulletin so you could see the how-to and save me a ton of typing.)
Those terminals that get loose are attached to the igniter and cause extra firing events as they vibrate, the extra firing events is what the tach is picking up and is what is causing the hesitation..

This was a common enough problem they made a bulletin specifically for it. If it fixes your problem it saves you about $150 on the igniter.



I found some but I don't know what your specific car is.
OEM=dealer.
If you pull yours out and find the brand name, you could search parts stores to try to find reboxed original parts. Good luck with that.
Hell, maybe a muffler rattle? IDK
Locate the source and then tell me where it comes from.