starts but won't run
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starts but won't run
I have a 2001 ex vtec auto with 230,000 miles. I was going down the road and it quit. Now it will start but only run for two seconds and quit. It is doing this consistantly. I believe it is either the fuel filter or fuel pump. I will check it out tomorrow. I was just wandering if anyone else might have any ideas as to what might be wrong.
Thanks
Thanks
If you think a good mechanic is expensive, try hiring a bad one
Joined: Dec 2011
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From: Midwest. Aiming about mid-chest
Rep Power: 518 
Re: starts but won't run
2 seconds sounds like the immobilizer could be shutting it down.
Start it, let it run and stall. See if the green key light flashes like mad when it stalls.
Start it, let it run and stall. See if the green key light flashes like mad when it stalls.
If you think a good mechanic is expensive, try hiring a bad one
Joined: Dec 2011
Posts: 32,017
Likes: 256
From: Midwest. Aiming about mid-chest
Rep Power: 518 Re: starts but won't run
No codes?
I was going to next guess timing belt jumped one tooth, or the tensioner spring broke its ear out of the pulley.
I think those cause codes though for most years but it can and will shut down the engine in 2 seconds.
Unplug the cam sensor and see if it will continue to run more than 2 seconds.
If it will, then you need to tear into the timing belt area to see what happened-- before it bends all the valves.
If that didn't help, then figure out if it is losing spark or fuel when it dies.
HTH
I was going to next guess timing belt jumped one tooth, or the tensioner spring broke its ear out of the pulley.
I think those cause codes though for most years but it can and will shut down the engine in 2 seconds.
Unplug the cam sensor and see if it will continue to run more than 2 seconds.
If it will, then you need to tear into the timing belt area to see what happened-- before it bends all the valves.
If that didn't help, then figure out if it is losing spark or fuel when it dies.
HTH
Thread Starter
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Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 6
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Rep Power: 0 Re: starts but won't run
Well u were Well thanks Ezone, I removed the camshafts position sensor and the engine continues to run. I was planning on going throught the top end this fall when things cooled off, but it looks like I will have to start earlier then expected.
Is there any other reason you can think of that would cause this? Bad çamshaftt position sensor maybe?
No codes?
I was going to next guess timing belt jumped one tooth, or the tensioner spring broke its ear out of the pulley.
I think those cause codes though for most years but it can and will shut down the engine in 2 seconds.
Unplug the cam sensor and see if it will continue to run more than 2 seconds.
If it will, then you need to tear into the timing belt area to see what happened-- before it bends all the valves.
If that didn't help, then figure out if it is losing spark or fuel when it dies.
HTH
I was going to next guess timing belt jumped one tooth, or the tensioner spring broke its ear out of the pulley.
I think those cause codes though for most years but it can and will shut down the engine in 2 seconds.
Unplug the cam sensor and see if it will continue to run more than 2 seconds.
If it will, then you need to tear into the timing belt area to see what happened-- before it bends all the valves.
If that didn't help, then figure out if it is losing spark or fuel when it dies.
HTH
Is there any other reason you can think of that would cause this? Bad çamshaftt position sensor maybe?
If you think a good mechanic is expensive, try hiring a bad one
Joined: Dec 2011
Posts: 32,017
Likes: 256
From: Midwest. Aiming about mid-chest
Rep Power: 518 Re: starts but won't run
Since you say it runs now, then the cam/crank syncronization is out of time by just enough to cause the PCM to shut it down.
Pull the covers and see why.
Normal cause is jumped a tooth (usually still runs quiet, and see next paragraph)
or tensioner broke where the spring hangs on (usually quite knockitty at idle, and 230k is ripe for it to let go).
Apparently, the engine can jump time if the crank manages to get turned backwards, when the car has a manual transmission and is parked in certain gear on a hill without the handbrake set. That's about the only way I can think where it could happen with a good belt and tensioner and all.
Could be a sensor problem, but that should have set codes.....Did you actually check for codes or just see the CEL was not on?
Pull the covers and see why.
Normal cause is jumped a tooth (usually still runs quiet, and see next paragraph)
or tensioner broke where the spring hangs on (usually quite knockitty at idle, and 230k is ripe for it to let go).
Apparently, the engine can jump time if the crank manages to get turned backwards, when the car has a manual transmission and is parked in certain gear on a hill without the handbrake set. That's about the only way I can think where it could happen with a good belt and tensioner and all.
Could be a sensor problem, but that should have set codes.....Did you actually check for codes or just see the CEL was not on?
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