What part is this??
If you think a good mechanic is expensive, try hiring a bad one
Joined: Dec 2011
Posts: 32,017
Likes: 256
From: Midwest. Aiming about mid-chest
Rep Power: 517 
Re: What part is this??
Look at all of the idle speed controls. FICV (if you have one) must be hot with coolant.
Umm, your pic shows NO hoses attached to the pressure regulator.
Did you run the engine like that, or did you only have the vacuum hose off of it?
If you ran the engine without the fuel hose attached and no fuel came out, then either the regulator is stuck or the pump is weak.
You didn't describe your problem well enough to judge, and I have no clue what your car is.
Umm, your pic shows NO hoses attached to the pressure regulator.
Did you run the engine like that, or did you only have the vacuum hose off of it?
If you ran the engine without the fuel hose attached and no fuel came out, then either the regulator is stuck or the pump is weak.
You didn't describe your problem well enough to judge, and I have no clue what your car is.
Thread Starter
Registered!!
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 52
Likes: 0
Rep Power: 0 
Re: What part is this??
Look at all of the idle speed controls. FICV (if you have one) must be hot with coolant.
Umm, your pic shows NO hoses attached to the pressure regulator.
Did you run the engine like that, or did you only have the vacuum hose off of it?
If you ran the engine without the fuel hose attached and no fuel came out, then either the regulator is stuck or the pump is weak.
You didn't describe your problem well enough to judge, and I have no clue what your car is.
Umm, your pic shows NO hoses attached to the pressure regulator.
Did you run the engine like that, or did you only have the vacuum hose off of it?
If you ran the engine without the fuel hose attached and no fuel came out, then either the regulator is stuck or the pump is weak.
You didn't describe your problem well enough to judge, and I have no clue what your car is.
"It feels like I have tried everything to fix this problem I have a 2000 civic si with a b18a1 swap. The problem, when the car is cold it will have a rough start (stutters) then kicks up to normal idle until it starts warming up then the idle will bounce between 150ish rpms to 1000 rpms constantly when the car idles down to 200 rpm the engine shakes the lights dim and it feels like it is about to stall although it never does. while driving there is no power loss just when i go back to an idle which is when it goes right back to surging. I have so far changed the plugs, changed the idle control valve, adjusted the idle speed screw, checked for vacuum leaks and changed one line that looked like it had an issue still no help I cleaned the entire engine (throttle body, crank case, and fuel) with seafoam which seemed to help for like 20 mins or so then boom right back to the same problem I was told my alternator could be going out so i got it checked it came back as a good alternator on the test although the guy says sometimes it wont read as going out until its gone all the way. I have reset the computer to see if that helps it did nothing. I heard it might be a fuel pressure problem but i figured it would effect the car all the way through the powerband and my issue is only present at idle also usually when there are problems with fuel there will be other signs of it which i am not seeing. even touching the gas in the slightest will fix the problem. Oh, and by the way theres no check engine light on which makes everything oh so much harder if any one has any suggestions please let me know this is getting really old lol" theres my story
If you think a good mechanic is expensive, try hiring a bad one
Joined: Dec 2011
Posts: 32,017
Likes: 256
From: Midwest. Aiming about mid-chest
Rep Power: 517 Re: What part is this??
I am used to dealing with strictly stock unmodified stuff, but here are some somewhat random thoughts:
A scantool that can display the complete datalist might be a huge help, that way one can see what the PCM is doing. A generic scanner may not display everything necessary in its datalist.
Clean the throttle body. The tiny gap around the throttle plate is a calibrated gap. Carbon buildup blocks necessary airflow around the plate.
Here's an article http://www.popularmechanics.com/cars...repair/1272341
I would imagine that if you have the 1.6 manifold and throttle body on a 1.8 engine, you would need to open up the idle air bypass quite a bit. If that passage were to be clogged with carbon, then there wouldn't be sufficient airflow to support the larger displacement engine or make a difference when you moved the screw. Maybe a thorough cleaning is in order, removing the throttle body and a little disassembly to clean the passage.
Clean the throttle plate and bore thoroughly while it is apart to do this.
Do you have fuel injectors for a 1.8 in it?
Does the IAC have the fine wire screen in it? The screens clog with carbon and cause a low idle speed.
Did the car EVER idle correctly after the swap?
Maybe an idle relearn is needed.
You are supposed to do this after ANY battery disconnect, memory clear, or messing with the engine and intake systems.
Disconnect the battery for 10 minutes.
Reconnect it, run the engine up to operating temperature and the radiator fan has run.
Turn off all electrical loads--lights, fan, etc.
Let it idle for 10 minutes.
Do not touch the throttle during this time.
A scantool that can display the complete datalist might be a huge help, that way one can see what the PCM is doing. A generic scanner may not display everything necessary in its datalist.
Clean the throttle body. The tiny gap around the throttle plate is a calibrated gap. Carbon buildup blocks necessary airflow around the plate.
Here's an article http://www.popularmechanics.com/cars...repair/1272341
I would imagine that if you have the 1.6 manifold and throttle body on a 1.8 engine, you would need to open up the idle air bypass quite a bit. If that passage were to be clogged with carbon, then there wouldn't be sufficient airflow to support the larger displacement engine or make a difference when you moved the screw. Maybe a thorough cleaning is in order, removing the throttle body and a little disassembly to clean the passage.
Clean the throttle plate and bore thoroughly while it is apart to do this.
Do you have fuel injectors for a 1.8 in it?
Does the IAC have the fine wire screen in it? The screens clog with carbon and cause a low idle speed.
Did the car EVER idle correctly after the swap?
Maybe an idle relearn is needed.
You are supposed to do this after ANY battery disconnect, memory clear, or messing with the engine and intake systems.
Disconnect the battery for 10 minutes.
Reconnect it, run the engine up to operating temperature and the radiator fan has run.
Turn off all electrical loads--lights, fan, etc.
Let it idle for 10 minutes.
Do not touch the throttle during this time.
Thread Starter
Registered!!
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 52
Likes: 0
Rep Power: 0 Re: What part is this??
I am used to dealing with strictly stock unmodified stuff, but here are some somewhat random thoughts:
A scantool that can display the complete datalist might be a huge help, that way one can see what the PCM is doing. A generic scanner may not display everything necessary in its datalist.
Clean the throttle body. The tiny gap around the throttle plate is a calibrated gap. Carbon buildup blocks necessary airflow around the plate.
Here's an article http://www.popularmechanics.com/cars...repair/1272341
I would imagine that if you have the 1.6 manifold and throttle body on a 1.8 engine, you would need to open up the idle air bypass quite a bit. If that passage were to be clogged with carbon, then there wouldn't be sufficient airflow to support the larger displacement engine or make a difference when you moved the screw. Maybe a thorough cleaning is in order, removing the throttle body and a little disassembly to clean the passage.
Clean the throttle plate and bore thoroughly while it is apart to do this.
Do you have fuel injectors for a 1.8 in it?
Does the IAC have the fine wire screen in it? The screens clog with carbon and cause a low idle speed.
Did the car EVER idle correctly after the swap?
Maybe an idle relearn is needed.
You are supposed to do this after ANY battery disconnect, memory clear, or messing with the engine and intake systems.
Disconnect the battery for 10 minutes.
Reconnect it, run the engine up to operating temperature and the radiator fan has run.
Turn off all electrical loads--lights, fan, etc.
Let it idle for 10 minutes.
Do not touch the throttle during this time.
A scantool that can display the complete datalist might be a huge help, that way one can see what the PCM is doing. A generic scanner may not display everything necessary in its datalist.
Clean the throttle body. The tiny gap around the throttle plate is a calibrated gap. Carbon buildup blocks necessary airflow around the plate.
Here's an article http://www.popularmechanics.com/cars...repair/1272341
I would imagine that if you have the 1.6 manifold and throttle body on a 1.8 engine, you would need to open up the idle air bypass quite a bit. If that passage were to be clogged with carbon, then there wouldn't be sufficient airflow to support the larger displacement engine or make a difference when you moved the screw. Maybe a thorough cleaning is in order, removing the throttle body and a little disassembly to clean the passage.
Clean the throttle plate and bore thoroughly while it is apart to do this.
Do you have fuel injectors for a 1.8 in it?
Does the IAC have the fine wire screen in it? The screens clog with carbon and cause a low idle speed.
Did the car EVER idle correctly after the swap?
Maybe an idle relearn is needed.
You are supposed to do this after ANY battery disconnect, memory clear, or messing with the engine and intake systems.
Disconnect the battery for 10 minutes.
Reconnect it, run the engine up to operating temperature and the radiator fan has run.
Turn off all electrical loads--lights, fan, etc.
Let it idle for 10 minutes.
Do not touch the throttle during this time.
If you think a good mechanic is expensive, try hiring a bad one
Joined: Dec 2011
Posts: 32,017
Likes: 256
From: Midwest. Aiming about mid-chest
Rep Power: 517 Re: What part is this??
I tried the idle relearn and no luck I am gonna pull the throttle body off this weekend and clean and bore it wat do u suggest i bore it out too? I also checked for carbon build up around the plate and saw none. the idle air control does have the mesh screen but there are no signs of carbon not to mention it is like 2 weeks old and i already went back through and cleaned it to be sure should i remove the screen? it has the 1.8 fuel injectors.. and yes it has idled normal before now my other question is do you think an o2 sensor going out would do this? I have heard sometimes they wont throw the CEL when they go bad if so is there any way to check for this? and how much is this scantool you speak of lol
Is the rest of the engine in good health?
Good compression?
Didn't jump a tooth on the timing belt?
Right now I'm assuming all is well, but if there is any problem with that sort of stuff it can show up as a lousy idle.
So the engine itself needs to be perfect before you go chasing symptoms.
Did this problem happen all of a sudden, or did it come on slow? (This might make a difference in what I think about it.)
I'm just kinda tossing out ideas here. If I saw the car myself, I might notice other things and think differently.
When I said bore, I didn't mean to drill anything out. I meant clean the round machined part (the bore) of the aluminum casting where the throttle blade rests when it is closed.
And pull out the bypass screw, clean both of its passages real good. Make sure the passages can flow plenty of air.
If you think an O2 sensor is causing it, unplug it. If that makes no difference, then it probably wasn't the cause. Plug it back in.
The IAC, I thought it might have been a used part. If it is new, then the screen should be spotless. It takes 100k+ to clog it up for most cars.
Scanner? I use the factory HDS and PGM. Probably several thousand dollars if I had to pay for it.
There are plenty of others out there, and I really have no idea how good they are or how much info they can provide to the user. I doubt any are as good as factory stuff though.
HTH
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