Rep Power: 0

Radiator just began to leak, I'm letting the engine cool down before I dig in but I noticed what looks like a small crack on the top left of the radiator, which appeared to be a little wet. What are the chances that this is the culprit? If so, how difficult is this as a DIY repair for somewhat of a novice? While I'm asking, if it's beyond me...what am I looking at as far as repair costs for labor and parts?

 
Rep Power: 812

yeah its cracked. try to sand the area, clean it up with alcohol, then use a two part plastic weld to seal over the crack. let it dry at least 4 hrs before using, preferably overnight. if that wont hold, its time for a new radiator. im guessing it will not be strong enough with all the pressure, but its worth a try.

 
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Thanks, I thought so. What can cause the radiator to crack like this. Could it have something to do with something else i.e. A/C? I haven't run the A/C in a while but lately I've had it cranking.

Never welded anything before and don't have proper tools, so DIY may not worth while option here unless I'm better off trying to replace it or bring it to a shop to fix or replace.

This car is getting VERY old and still running pretty well but maybe it's time to...ya' know...upgrade LOL So now I need to figure out if it's worth fixing.

I just replaced the battery ($55 w/3Yr free replace & 5Yr pro rated. Other than this radiator problem now, she needs:
1) Front pads & rotors

She could use:
1) Wire replaced/repaired for front passenger power window
2) Exhaust pipe leading to muffler, which just began to rust thru slightly on 1 small spot.
3) Minor oil leak fixed.
4) Cosmetic stuff i.e. paint, carpet cleaned, new floor mats, a couple of ***** here and there LOL

What would you do?
What's the best bang for my buck solution?

 
Rep Power: 812

plastic weld is easy to use. it comes in a tube at most auto store and has two parts you stir together and then spread it over the crack and let it dry.

 
Rep Power: 0

I don't believe the cracked area is plastic, it feels like metal or steel

 
Rep Power: 812

ok okay its hard to tell in the pic. looked like that hard black plastic alot of honda radiators have. if its metal, they also sell metal weld kits and its the same idea of mixing the parts and letting it harden.

 
Rep Power: 0

Would you replace it with one from like autozone & advance or go to the dealer for more than 2x the price or about $200 more?

BTW, is the dealer radiator OEM??

 
Rep Power: 812

yeah dealer only sells honda parts. i would personally go with honda for parts like this. or check ebay or junkyard for a lightly used one, usually goes for much cheaper than new.

 
Rep Power: 215

Try using some JB weld on it. That **** works for almost everything. You just mix the 2 tubes together slather it on there and let it dry which would be over night of course and try that out and see if that holds it. I think it should cause people use it for camshafts and other internal engine parts and works out great. If it doesnt work then you will have to replace it.

 
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That's my thinking as well. Just hoping there's not an underlying heating or cooling problem that caused the crack on top of the other minor problems, which may make it not worth it.

Any other opinions...after market or dealer OEM??

 
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Thanks, if that doesn't work, what would you replace it with after market or dealer OEM?? ?

 
Rep Power: 215

If it doesnt work go with OEM.

 
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Thanks all! I went with OEM...MSRP $298 got it for $230...DIY install almost complete and ready to role! One question though, upon removing the "ATF Cooler Hoses" as directed in step 2 (1at pic), a dark brown fluid drained out. I'm assuming Automatic Transmission Fluid...If I'm wrong please let me know.

I checked the transmission fluid level as directed (2nd pic) and it did appear a little low SO where is this "filler hole" it says to add the transmission fluid to?

 
Rep Power: 812

you are correct, the atf runs thru a small portion of the radiator to cool off (separate from the coolant). you can simply add more by removing the dipstick and pouring fluid into the hole. when looking at the engine bay from the front, it is on the left side under the factory air intake box. sortof near the fusebox and battery, but lower down.

 
Rep Power: 0

Hmmm? That dipstick doesn't really feel like it's in that hole all that securely.

And how do you get fluid down to that spot without spilling it all over the place? LOL

 
Rep Power: 215

A long funnel.

 
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Long indeed! LOL

 
Rep Power: 812

or two funnels and get a new dipstick, the rubber gets degraded over time and shrinks.

 
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Well, after switching out the radiator and 4 hoses, I just overheated again on a 20 minute drive. All the hoses appear to be fine and I'm just not sure what the problem is. I was afraid there was an underlying problem when the old radiator cracked (see op) and this may just confirm my initial fears.

Any ideas???
Thanks!!!

 
Rep Power: 215

You might have some air in the line. Flush it and refill it and see what that does. If not then have you changed the thermostat. If not try that its only like 10$ or so. If that does not work then it might be the coolant temp sensor near the thermostat.

 
Rep Power: 0

I flushed it after I first replaced everything but I did notice I had to top off the radiator with coolant 2-3x's and thought that took care of any air in the line. Could the ATF level being at or near "Minimum Line" cause overheating?

No I haven't changed the thermostat; where is it & how difficult to DIY?

How much does it cost & how difficult to DIY?

 
Rep Power: 215

I dont think the tranni will make your motor over heat but the air pockets will, thermostat will to especially if it is bad cause it will not open up when the motor gets hot to where it can let coolant in the motor to cool it down. It could be as simple as the temp sensor.

You can buy a thermostat at autozone or any auto parts store. And its an easy thing to do. Just drain the coolant out the bottom of the radiator. Then the thermostat housing is right behind the motor. Basically where the head and the block meet. You will be able to see it. It is right between the throttle body and the engine. You will see coolant lines running to it. Just take the 2 or 3 bolts off the housing and take the thermostat out but make sure you line the new thermostat up like the other one was. Dont forget to get a new thermostat gasket either. Just put it in and tighten the bolts and refill the radiator.

Also an easy way to test a thermostat is boil some water and grab some tongs or something to hold it and put it in the boiling water and see if it opens or not. If it opens it is still good and working if not then you need a new one.

And the coolant temp sensor is pretty cheap to as well. The temp sensor is located right on the thermostat housing. Just take it off and put the other on.

 
Rep Power: 0

Upon further review, a hose (highlighted in white) not even attached to the radiator appears to be blown with coolant leaking out. This blown hose goes from the back moving forward underneath the Lower Hose (LH) and the Distributor Cap (DC) and looks like it goes into the bottom left hand side of the Cylinder Head.

What are the chances that this is just a strange coincidence that this other hose would blow 4 weeks after replacing the radiator & it's 4 hoses and not a sign of an underlying problem as mentioned earlier?

And BTW, what hose is this anyway???

 
Rep Power: 215

Cant really tell by the picture on which on that is but the LH hose where it runs to the right behind the distributor is the thermostat housing.

 
Rep Power: 215

Upon further review I went out and check my integra ls and that hose comes out of the firewall and goes to another hose. I am not to sure if that is a return hose or what. That hose either goes from the thermostat to the firewall and back out to the hose that you are talking bout and it goes into the engine head or it comes out that way.

 
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Does this picture help?

 
Rep Power: 215

If you look at the post right above the one you just posted I figured it out lol. I made one post and then went out and looked in my other car which is a integra ls.

 
Rep Power: 0

This is the culprit...One of the heater hose that goes from under the distributor cap to the heater valve. It split right by the clamp under the distributor cap. Problem is I'd have to at least take the entire distributor housing off, which I've never attempted before.

And looking at the other end that's attached to the heater valve, I'm concerned I may break the valve somehow trying to pull the old hose off and putting the new one on.

So needless to say, I'm not too confident about DIYing this one.
What do you think?

Then the question is, should I replace the other 2 heater hoses as well?