Rep Power: 0

Here's a picture of a spark plug I just removed (see attachment).
This thing was a b*** to get out, now is that shiny metallic stuff part of the aluminum head stripped off? or is it just dried anti-seize compound? I'm hoping the later.

Literally took all my force to get it loose, and now I'm scared to get at the rest of them. More so I'm pissed at the last mechanic I brought it to that changed the plugs because they obviously over-torqued it or did something wrong. I think the reason it was hard to get out was the visible rust, and i'm hoping that the threads are mostly ok.

Any suggestions on getting the plugs out easier? Maybe a longer handle socket and some wd-40/pb blaster? Or should I bring it to someone with a pneumatic socket?

 
Rep Power: 812

just hope they come out and new ones go in. i hate to say it but that looks like the threads got chewed up. most shops have no idea how tight spark plugs should be.

 
Rep Power: 512

That's why I do most of my maintenance myself..

 
Rep Power: 313

20ft/lbs MAX when you put in the new ones. That sucks Why the rust?

 
Rep Power: 812

prolly never changed for a long time. alot of people take the 100k miles thing seriously in the manual.

 
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I am thinking, I hope that the bottom shiny part is not a heli coil or someting

Interesting how it is half rusted. Luckily it did not break off. I had the opposite problem, where the dealer did not tighten 2 of my plugs.

 
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20/lbs thtas the maximun torque that 3/8 ratchet has so do that

for taking out the plug, dont smash the ratchet, you can brake the ceramic part, have tu use a tube into the ratchet and nice a slowly realese the plug

that how do it on the garage!

 
Rep Power: 313

Can you take it back to the mechanic and have him change them. Since he screwed up.

 
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Well the real question is: Can you get a new spark plug in?

It looks like its pretty chewed up. Don't use air tools on a spark plug you'll break it in place.

 
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Well like I said I was able to get a new plug in...and the car seems to be running fine. I'm just a little worried to attempt to take out the remaining 3. I will give it an attempt after a memorial day trip.

20lb/ft as the max on a 3/8"? I have never heard that...would explain while I was taking out the rusted one that it was slipping through the gears (or whatever its called) on ratchet.

The last change was 30k miles ago, I don't think that's excessive. And the last mechanic is very far away at this point.

 
Rep Power: 313

The max is not 20ft/lbs on a 3/8. I have done much more, especially if it's a high quality ratchet.

 
Rep Power: 228

The plugs only should be torqued to 13 ft-lbs.

 
Rep Power: 313

20ft/lbs and you will never have a problem, and they will never come loose. 14ft/lbs isn't enough and your plug could come loose over time. Lots of vibration in the engine.

 
Rep Power: 228

I always torque my plugs to 13 ft-lbs, as recommended in the service manual, and never had a problem.

 
Rep Power: 313

My manual tells me to take the car in whenever the maintenance required light comes on but I sure as hell don't do that. No harm will come torquing them to 20ft/lbs and there have been people whose plugs have come loose due to the very low factory torque spec. I always torque mine to 20ft/lbs without issues, and I know I'm safe.

 
Rep Power: 228

Maybe you should replace your motor mounts if you have excessive engine vibration enough to loosen your plugs.

And that's your owner's manual. The torque specs come from the service manual.

 
Rep Power: 313

^ I am aware. I have both manuals, and my motor mounts are fine thanks lol.

 
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Ron you are on another forum too?

13 is plenty. Another tip is a half turn on the rachet is good too.

 
Rep Power: 228

Yep, that's me.