kickling

Hi all,

I have an issue with my power door locks, where all except the rear right passenger door work properly. I have read all the posts on replacing actuators/other door lock issues, but I would like some thoughts on the following tests I performed:

(Rear right passenger power door lock not working)
-Works once every few minutes
-Tested voltage of wiring leading to actuator assembly - 8 DC volts
-When directly applying power from car battery to the actuator wiring, it works!

(Rear left passenger power door lock working fine)
-Works fine all the time
-Tested voltage of wiring to actuator - same 8 DC volts.

I am confused here - wiring seems fine... actuator works with direct power, but seems like it needs more voltage, thus confirmed broken?

Any help appreciated.

CraigW

iTrader: (1)

The pulse used when opened and closed by the system is very short, Your meter may not show 12 volts due to the short duration.

The test in the factory manual is to "briefly apply external voltage to the actuator" (of course swap polarity for up/down operation) Also make sure the actuator being tested is disconnected from the circuit.

If you still have the door panels off you could make up a 2 wire jumper to go between sides as a confirming test.

kickling

Hi Craig, thanks for your response...

The way I tested the actuator was by unplugging the connector from near where the power windows looming is (it's just a plastic clip to unplug), so it was isolated when I ran my external 12V power to it (which worked).

I noticed that manually pulling up and down the lock tab is a bit stiffer than the other doors, so I'm going to spray the moving parts with some WD40 lubricant and see if it makes improvement.

And you're right, I did suspect that since the electrical pulse is so short, I would need a non-budget multimeter to read it properly... but by testing both rear doors showing 8Volts (aka 12Volts), I am sure it's not a wiring problem since the other door lock still works.

I might have to take it to the mechanic cos I just can't figure it out...

Vertigo Jones

I have a similar problem to this and believe many civic owners do.
I get periods where the drivers side door won't open, the actual physical lock (that you can see inside) will move, then snap back when I relock, but doesn't quite get there, If I do it over and over, it eventually opens. Once its started to open, it is fine and will unlock first try over and over, up until its left for a few days and then it will do it again. I'm actually going to with lubing it, to see if physical impairment is the problem.

kickling

Yeah, I have noticed that problem too. It's a common issue with most cars in our era, not just Civics, you can't expect that little motor to keep going forever. Second hand dealers usually check this issue as soon as they sit inside your car.

I actually have the opposite problem... if I leave it for a few minutes my power lock will work once. Then that's it until another short 3 minute wait.

Update on the suggestion from CraigW above: I connected wires from my non-working right door's actuator connection over to my working left door actuator, and using the power locks works fine for it... confirming wiring is not an issue on my non-working side. Good idea though, thanks CraigW.

Let me know how your lube goes... I'll check mine again tomorrow after leaving it overnight to soak in, then will assess the situation again.

FGCOUPE

Get rid of the OEM solenoid and get an Autoloc by the Hoffman group, expensive but are steel bodied and heavy duty which take the abuse of
constant use over the years. The one in my car is a 75lb solenoid and its funny too....i accidently energized the stupid thing long enough to actually start smoking (hot as ****) and after the thing cooled down was blowing fuses (30A), so i installed a 30A breaker and it still works like new to this day!

Autoloc ftw!

kickling

Update for VertigoJones: Lubricant did nothing... except leak out the drainage holes in my door.

But I am looking at the service manual for 96-00 model civics which I found from http://www.hondahookup.com/manuals/... you just need to register.

In this manual, there are tests for the door lock system which I will try out before taking out my lock and replacing the actuator.

VertigoJones, I suggest you download this manual... the power door locks section starts page '23-251'.

It also makes interesting note about the lock system being controlled through the stock stereo headunit, but won't be an issue if you're using an aftermarket alarm system.