Getting a loud whine when running defrosters and accelerating
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If i dont do both it wont make the noise. I popped the hood and cant exactly tell where its coming from but i do know its from the driver side. But it gets louder as the rpms get higher. I turn on the reg AC button and some whine happens but when i turn on the rear defroster as well the whine becomes a lot louder.
Once i turn the desfrosters off, hit the gas and noise is gone.
Once i turn the desfrosters off, hit the gas and noise is gone.
Last edited by Civicnoobie; 03-20-2014 at 04:03 PM.
#2
If you think a good mechanic is expensive, try hiring a bad one
Re: Getting a loud whine when running defrosters and accelerating
Might be alternator whine due to electric load, since you say the REAR defrost.
What about adding even more electric load, like headlights and blower fan? Noise gets louder?
Next try....
Make it do the whine noise. Unplug the big round connector from the alternator, see if the whine stops.
Is the alternator good or bad?
What about adding even more electric load, like headlights and blower fan? Noise gets louder?
Next try....
Make it do the whine noise. Unplug the big round connector from the alternator, see if the whine stops.
Is the alternator good or bad?
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Might be alternator whine due to electric load, since you say the REAR defrost.
What about adding even more electric load, like headlights and blower fan? Noise gets louder?
Next try....
Make it do the whine noise. Unplug the big round connector from the alternator, see if the whine stops.
Is the alternator good or bad?
What about adding even more electric load, like headlights and blower fan? Noise gets louder?
Next try....
Make it do the whine noise. Unplug the big round connector from the alternator, see if the whine stops.
Is the alternator good or bad?
I can test it again with the headlights on, but from what I notice so far the whine doesnt get any louder with more load.
When you say the blower fan, im guessing youre refering to the big fan under the hood? The one that spins when you run cold A/C or A/C defroster? If so, then no it doesnt get any louder when i hear that fan spin. I can be in park, have the defroster on, give some gas til i hear the big fan spinning and its the same noise level. I wonder why it only happens when i hit the gas.
Which big round connector do you unplug from the alt? What tool is needed or can i use my bare hands?
I did a load test a few months ago and the numbers were good. Should I do this again or is the test pointless?
I think the biggest question is whether it does this in warmer weather. It was really warm for a few days a couple days ago where i had the A/C running while driving but unfortunately i dont quite remember if i had any whine.
Thanks
Last edited by Civicnoobie; 03-20-2014 at 04:03 PM.
#5
If you think a good mechanic is expensive, try hiring a bad one
Re: Getting a loud whine when running defrosters and accelerating
Whine while trying to generate electricity is normal.
They get quiet when they are not trying to generate electricity.
HOW MUCH whine is the question.
When you say the blower fan,
Nevermind.
I wonder why it only happens when i hit the gas.
Which big round connector do you unplug from the alt?
What tool is needed or can i use my bare hands?
I did a load test a few months ago and the numbers were good.
Was it making noise back then?
Should I do this again or is the test pointless?
And pay attention to how much noise it makes while it's got a load on it.
#6
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Remember when I replaced my battery and got boosted and drove to walmart? I said that I heard a easily heard whine from the alt? This is the exact same whine and from the same spot and same volume. Im wondering if i damaged my alternator from that 10min trip to walmart after I got boosted.
I meant the one in the dash. The one you turn on with your right hand.
Probably because the alternator RPM speeds up.
How many are there? Which one is the big one?
What does "numbers were good" mean? What are the specs? What were the test results??
Was it making noise back then?
And pay attention to how much noise it makes while it's got a load on it.
#7
If you think a good mechanic is expensive, try hiring a bad one
Re: Getting a loud whine when running defrosters and accelerating
I did a load test a few months ago and the numbers were good. Should I do this again or is the test pointless?
You had X-rays done on the same arm a few months ago when it didn't hurt.
Do you assume it's still ok now because it was ok then?
No. I just noticed it in the past few days.
Im wondering if i damaged my alternator from that 10min trip to walmart after I got boosted.
Quote:
And pay attention to how much noise it makes while it's got a load on it.
Described above.
And pay attention to how much noise it makes while it's got a load on it.
Described above.
When the test is performed, you start the engine and have all electrical loads turned off.
The alt should be relatively quiet since it isn't (shouldn't be) working hard.
The tech uses a VAT tester to manually control a large electrical load on the system, while measuring alternator output in Amps and Volts to make sure the alternator can sustain charging at its maximum output rating.
Listen to the alternator whine when the tester puts the load on it.
Also, it doesn't have to be the alternators' fault. A bad battery can make the alternator work itself to death too. Have your guy check everything.
#8
Re: Getting a loud whine when running defrosters and accelerating
The defroster switch might be creating a short for you and that drains electricity like crazy putting big load on alternator, also did you check the pulley bearing those can cause whining as well and make sure the belt is adjusted and working properly
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Ok
I see, ok ill get him to do that. Doesnt matter if the car has been driven and hot??
Thats actually what i was thinking too tonight. Could be the battery and putting extra load on the alt if its bad.
I did not mean now. I meant listen and observe during a real test.
When the test is performed, you start the engine and have all electrical loads turned off.
The alt should be relatively quiet since it isn't (shouldn't be) working hard.
The tech uses a VAT tester to manually control a large electrical load on the system, while measuring alternator output in Amps and Volts to make sure the alternator can sustain charging at its maximum output rating.
Listen to the alternator whine when the tester puts the load on it.
When the test is performed, you start the engine and have all electrical loads turned off.
The alt should be relatively quiet since it isn't (shouldn't be) working hard.
The tech uses a VAT tester to manually control a large electrical load on the system, while measuring alternator output in Amps and Volts to make sure the alternator can sustain charging at its maximum output rating.
Listen to the alternator whine when the tester puts the load on it.
Also, it doesn't have to be the alternators' fault. A bad battery can make the alternator work itself to death too. Have your guy check everything.
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Ah yes, of course the pulley bearing and the belt. Ill put those on my list as things to check tomrw. thx
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well its the diodes in the alternator are starting to go. So looks like time for a new alternator.
The one now was an oem rebuilt one and only just over 2 years old. Paid $200 installed.
Mech says to put a new oem honda one im and itll last a lot longer. Said $380 for just the alternator. Thats alot.
Which should i do?
The one now was an oem rebuilt one and only just over 2 years old. Paid $200 installed.
Mech says to put a new oem honda one im and itll last a lot longer. Said $380 for just the alternator. Thats alot.
Which should i do?
#13
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#15
Re: Getting a loud whine when running defrosters and accelerating
OEM = Original Equipment Manufacturer
ie: "factory parts"... the parts originally used in the factory at the time the vehicle was built
ie: "factory parts"... the parts originally used in the factory at the time the vehicle was built
Last edited by CGaud; 03-21-2014 at 03:15 PM.
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#17
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I find it hard to believe an alternators diodes starting to go at 2-2.5yrs time. Everything in it was replaced.
Last edited by Civicnoobie; 03-21-2014 at 03:52 PM.
#18
If you think a good mechanic is expensive, try hiring a bad one
Re: Getting a loud whine when running defrosters and accelerating
Bearing noise wouldn't be electrical load dependent.
Yeah, I know that.
I wanted clarification from the OP.
FYI there are cheapass parts stores (open on Sundays) that sell a brand name called 'OEM'.
Check it out here: http://www.oemautoparts.net/
Misleading from the git-go.
Seconded.
Depends on the quality of the parts that went in at the time of the rebuild.
There used to be a rebuilder in my town that used only the best parts. That guy retired and closed his shop.
All that's left here is one rebuilder that apparently uses the cheapest stuff he can get his hands on. Not even worth messing with, it's no better than the crapshoot that DangerZone is.
I wanted clarification from the OP.
FYI there are cheapass parts stores (open on Sundays) that sell a brand name called 'OEM'.
Check it out here: http://www.oemautoparts.net/
Misleading from the git-go.
I find it hard to believe an alternators diodes starting to go at 2-2.5yrs time. Everything in it was replaced.
There used to be a rebuilder in my town that used only the best parts. That guy retired and closed his shop.
All that's left here is one rebuilder that apparently uses the cheapest stuff he can get his hands on. Not even worth messing with, it's no better than the crapshoot that DangerZone is.
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Depends on the quality of the parts that went in at the time of the rebuild.
There used to be a rebuilder in my town that used only the best parts. That guy retired and closed his shop.
All that's left here is one rebuilder that apparently uses the cheapest stuff he can get his hands on. Not even worth messing with, it's no better than the crapshoot that DangerZone is.
There used to be a rebuilder in my town that used only the best parts. That guy retired and closed his shop.
All that's left here is one rebuilder that apparently uses the cheapest stuff he can get his hands on. Not even worth messing with, it's no better than the crapshoot that DangerZone is.
I would go new but $380 just for a new OEM Honda alternator sounds high to me. And thats through this mechs discount, otherwise he says its $480. Plus $100 install from him. Another factor is that the OEM Honda alternators are only 70 jules whereas the rebuilt ones are 100-110 jules. So i really dont want to pay $480 for a 70 jule alternator considering I have HID, sound system, etc, the more jules the better in my case.
Whereas rebuilt is $200 installed.
Im gonna call around more to these alternator shops. Of course they will all say that "yes we replace all the components and pieces in alts even if theyre still good" but like you said, its dependent on the quality of their parts. If this happened two weeks ago, I would say yes just go with another rebuilt and hope it lasts at least 2 years because I would probably have a new car by then. But since my parents bought a new car this week, chances of me getting a new car in 2 years is Id say zero since ill be paying my parents car every month for them.
Even though the mech today who checked it out is very good and reputable (hes not cheap) but he diagnoses stuff for me at no charge most of the time, I do want to get a 2nd opinion on it though. I dont want to replace the alt unless i know forsure its that.
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Re: Getting a loud whine when running defrosters and accelerating
Personally I think OEM rebuilt is the way to go. I had a Toyota alternator rebuilt for me once and it lasted 10 years. I've always rebuilt my own starters and alternators since then.
If there's a Taylor Wilton near you ask them about rebuilding your alternator. I think they charge around $60 as long as you bring the in alternator.
If there's a Taylor Wilton near you ask them about rebuilding your alternator. I think they charge around $60 as long as you bring the in alternator.
#21
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Personally I think OEM rebuilt is the way to go. I had a Toyota alternator rebuilt for me once and it lasted 10 years. I've always rebuilt my own starters and alternators since then.
If there's a Taylor Wilton near you ask them about rebuilding your alternator. I think they charge around $60 as long as you bring the in alternator.
If there's a Taylor Wilton near you ask them about rebuilding your alternator. I think they charge around $60 as long as you bring the in alternator.
I found a place that has a 90amp rebuilt one (OEM) for $95 with the exchange of me giving them my old one. Cheapest ive found so far and comes with 1.5yrs warranty. Nice.
Last edited by Civicnoobie; 03-21-2014 at 08:36 PM.
#22
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Re: Getting a loud whine when running defrosters and accelerating
Sure, sure....
The rebuild on my Toyota starter was 2 L shaped chunks of copper that needed to be replaced...I didn't really care if they were Toyota copper or not. I believe I paid $10 for the 2 pieces. An OEM Toyota starter was about $500 a cheap one was about $300 and I was told it wouldn't last 2 years.
http://estore.honda.com/honda/parts/...b=E++0610&dl=#
I can't remember what Civic you have but if you're saying you need part #19 or #8 well I'd personally be hitting the wrecking yard for another alternator. Most commonly the brushes wear out in alternators (carbon). No need for them to be OEM unless it's an alternator that has the brushes inside a cartridge.
https://www.civicforums.com/forums/1...ttery-faq.html
The rebuild on my Toyota starter was 2 L shaped chunks of copper that needed to be replaced...I didn't really care if they were Toyota copper or not. I believe I paid $10 for the 2 pieces. An OEM Toyota starter was about $500 a cheap one was about $300 and I was told it wouldn't last 2 years.
http://estore.honda.com/honda/parts/...b=E++0610&dl=#
I can't remember what Civic you have but if you're saying you need part #19 or #8 well I'd personally be hitting the wrecking yard for another alternator. Most commonly the brushes wear out in alternators (carbon). No need for them to be OEM unless it's an alternator that has the brushes inside a cartridge.
https://www.civicforums.com/forums/1...ttery-faq.html
#23
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Sure, sure....
The rebuild on my Toyota starter was 2 L shaped chunks of copper that needed to be replaced...I didn't really care if they were Toyota copper or not. I believe I paid $10 for the 2 pieces. An OEM Toyota starter was about $500 a cheap one was about $300 and I was told it wouldn't last 2 years.
http://estore.honda.com/honda/parts/...b=E++0610&dl=#
I can't remember what Civic you have but if you're saying you need part #19 or #8 well I'd personally be hitting the wrecking yard for another alternator. Most commonly the brushes wear out in alternators (carbon). No need for them to be OEM unless it's an alternator that has the brushes inside a cartridge.
https://www.civicforums.com/forums/1...ttery-faq.html
The rebuild on my Toyota starter was 2 L shaped chunks of copper that needed to be replaced...I didn't really care if they were Toyota copper or not. I believe I paid $10 for the 2 pieces. An OEM Toyota starter was about $500 a cheap one was about $300 and I was told it wouldn't last 2 years.
http://estore.honda.com/honda/parts/...b=E++0610&dl=#
I can't remember what Civic you have but if you're saying you need part #19 or #8 well I'd personally be hitting the wrecking yard for another alternator. Most commonly the brushes wear out in alternators (carbon). No need for them to be OEM unless it's an alternator that has the brushes inside a cartridge.
https://www.civicforums.com/forums/1...ttery-faq.html
So im gonna go back to the shop and work out something with the guy to get at least half of my money back. If he wants to do all the labour again to take his new one out and put my old one back in, fine but not at my cost. But it doesnt make sense for him since ill be replacing it in the next week anyways with a Honda one. Im hoping he can at least give me all my money back. Not my fault that his alternator is **** and i shouldnt have to pay labour for it.
Im gonna go back to the first mech and just get a new one Honda one put in. But you say i should just get one from the junkyard? Is a brand new Honda alternator overpriced at $380cdn? Whats the pros and cons getting a brand new one vs from the junkyard? Only bad thing is the junkyard one will have at least 5 years usage on it, if not more, all dependant on when the car was retired and scrapped.
I really hate how the honda ones are only 70amps as I would much prefer a high output one (the rebuilts are 90) especially if im going to be paying out of my *** for a new honda one.
#24
Re: Getting a loud whine when running defrosters and accelerating
certain parts i swear by going honda OEM, but an alternator is not one of them, i would go with an aftermarket alternator that comes with a lifetime warranty, cant go wrong there,
i would never get an alternator from a junk yard, its probably been sitting out in the rain for 3 years
i would never get an alternator from a junk yard, its probably been sitting out in the rain for 3 years
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certain parts i swear by going honda OEM, but an alternator is not one of them, i would go with an aftermarket alternator that comes with a lifetime warranty, cant go wrong there,
i would never get an alternator from a junk yard, its probably been sitting out in the rain for 3 years
i would never get an alternator from a junk yard, its probably been sitting out in the rain for 3 years
I dont know how much Honda charges directly for the alternator (id imagine more than $380), but even at $380 it seems too much. Not sure how much markup my mech has on it even with his $100 discount that he gets it for. Im prettu sure most if not all mechs at shops markup their parts right? Especially big parts like this.
#26
Re: Getting a loud whine when running defrosters and accelerating
So you dont think Honda OEM alternator is nessecary? Where can i buy a high quality aftermarket one cheaper than $380cdn? I would prefer one with more than 70amps just because i do believe i can benefit from one. I have HID and 700W RMS sound system.
I dont know how much Honda charges directly for the alternator (id imagine more than $380), but even at $380 it seems too much. Not sure how much markup my mech has on it even with his $100 discount that he gets it for. Im prettu sure most if not all mechs at shops markup their parts right? Especially big parts like this.
I dont know how much Honda charges directly for the alternator (id imagine more than $380), but even at $380 it seems too much. Not sure how much markup my mech has on it even with his $100 discount that he gets it for. Im prettu sure most if not all mechs at shops markup their parts right? Especially big parts like this.
check out parts stores in your area, im sure you can get an aftermarket one for alot less than $380, and if you bring your old one in they will give you a further discount,
thats just my 2 cent opinion, if you want a honda alternator, then by all means buy one
#27
If you think a good mechanic is expensive, try hiring a bad one
Re: Getting a loud whine when running defrosters and accelerating
As suggested by another forum member on here, I started the car and unplugged the green plug going to the alternator. Whine was all gone. Tried it a few times to confirm.
But is it normal or not?
I dont know how much Honda charges directly for the alternator (id imagine more than $380), but even at $380 it seems too much.
(WOW you guys up there pay some high prices.)
I don't think brand new is available from Honda anymore, and it would probably be more than double that price if it was.
Not sure how much markup my mech has on it even with his $100 discount that he gets it for. Im prettu sure most if not all mechs at shops markup their parts right? Especially big parts like this.
Nobody goes into business to make friends.
#28
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Re: Getting a loud whine when running defrosters and accelerating
You have to do what's right for you. People come to forum boards to get different insights and opinions from other people to make more informed decisions about what they are going to do. What works for me may not work for you.
I would get one from a yard if the price was right. A) because I would prefer to have original equipment and B) because I have the ability to disassemble and clean/inspect before I install. The downside of junkyards is generally no returns on electrical. I find most of the wrecking yards I deal with lately are every bit as professional as auto part stores and you generally are getting quality used parts at reasonable prices. My Civic is a '99 and it still has the original alternator in it after 15 years and 209k kms. When I bought the car I tried to get an extra set of brushes for it because I generally just carry extra alternator brushes and starter contacts in my tool box for when the day happens. I found it to be almost impossible to find brushes for my alternator and when I was asking opinion was that Honda alternators rarely fail. I don't know if that changed when the 7th gens were built but really I don't see any alternator questions in the forums for 6th gen.
I don't have a lot of options where I live to buy parts (Napa,Lordco,Canadian Tire, Taylor Wilton)....I've bought NAPA reman stuff before and it generally lasts a couple years. I've never seen a lifetime warranty on anything you can buy from NAPA.
HELL YA!!!!..............that's what I'm always saying
But you say i should just get one from the junkyard? Is a brand new Honda alternator overpriced at $380cdn? Whats the pros and cons getting a brand new one vs from the junkyard? Only bad thing is the junkyard one will have at least 5 years usage on it, if not more, all dependant on when the car was retired and scrapped..
Factory remanufactured alt price $414 CN at torontohondaparts.com
(WOW you guys up there pay some high prices.)
(WOW you guys up there pay some high prices.)
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