check engine light flashing, P0302, P0301-4, 300
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check engine light flashing, P0302, P0301-4, 300
While driving I got check engine light flashing, code P0302, but also P0301-4, 300
Coils, injectors, spark plugs are less than 10 000 mi. P0302 appears few minutes after I start driving, if I clear it P0302 doesn't appear until I start the engine the next time. The only thing done recently was modifying downstream O2 sensor. I have bad catalytic converter.
Could that be the reason?
Thanks
Coils, injectors, spark plugs are less than 10 000 mi. P0302 appears few minutes after I start driving, if I clear it P0302 doesn't appear until I start the engine the next time. The only thing done recently was modifying downstream O2 sensor. I have bad catalytic converter.
Could that be the reason?
Thanks
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If those numbers are accurate, you might be off by 1-2 teeth.
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Those numbers are quite low. Is the tester okay?
Adjust valve clearances, then recheck compression
Make sure you do the compression test right. Good hot battery, all plugs out, throttle wide open, and keep on cranking the engine until the tester needle quits climbing, plus a few more hits to be certain its maxed out
Adjust valve clearances, then recheck compression
Make sure you do the compression test right. Good hot battery, all plugs out, throttle wide open, and keep on cranking the engine until the tester needle quits climbing, plus a few more hits to be certain its maxed out
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That was my first thought. I checked the tester with the tire pressure. It is accurate. I am doing the compression test exactly as you describe it. I’ll check the valve lash and I’ll do adjustment. Should I check the timing as Slumpertcivic suggested above?
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Are you using OEM NGK spark plugs?
Yes check timing belt if skipped teeth. When was timing belt and tensioner replaced last? What is mileage now? Valve adjustment?
Yes check timing belt if skipped teeth. When was timing belt and tensioner replaced last? What is mileage now? Valve adjustment?
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1-90 2-65 3-81 4-85 psi
No-start/flooded might give numbers that low
I expect 180 psi or above when I do the compression test.
Can you feel it misfire at idle?
Does it only set misfire code at road speed? (egr passage clog)
Last edited by ezone; Nov 26, 2018 at 06:41 PM.
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Yes I can feel and hear the misfire at idle. I did clean the EGR passage last time I did major work 18 000 mi. ago.
I did compression test today with new tester. The old one was defective. The numbers are 1-122 2-85 3-112 4-122. Still #2 is low. I am afraid it could be bend valve. Verified the timing mark on the harmonic balancer aligned with the notch and piston #1 is at the highest position. Trying to dedicate some time for valve adjustment.
I did compression test today with new tester. The old one was defective. The numbers are 1-122 2-85 3-112 4-122. Still #2 is low. I am afraid it could be bend valve. Verified the timing mark on the harmonic balancer aligned with the notch and piston #1 is at the highest position. Trying to dedicate some time for valve adjustment.
Last edited by emich; Nov 27, 2018 at 10:13 AM.
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I am afraid it could be bend valve.
It would not suddenly happen to become a misfire problem 18k miles after getting bent.
Verified the timing mark on the harmonic balancer aligned with the notch and piston #1 is at the highest position.
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Did valve adjustment with maximum allowed 0.009 in. and 0.011 exh. The timing is perfect. It seams to run better. No misfire so far. The new compression is: 1-130 2-90 3-112 4-122 Versus the old reading 1-122 2-85 3-112 4-122. Still #2 is low. What could be the reason besides bend valve?
Last edited by emich; Dec 2, 2018 at 09:24 AM.
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Still #2 is low.
Read up on how to perform a cylinder leakage or cylinder leakdown test.
What could be the reason besides bend valve?
Burned valve
Piston rings
Gasket breach
Failing tester or methods (remember I expect 180+ on these engines....I wonder why your results are so low?)
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