Refab’d engine break in period issues
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Refab’d engine break in period issues
So in a nut shell this is what’s going on I did all the replacing and disassembling my newly refabricated engine head back on my block I took my time swapped out every and any o ring and gasket possible so I’m out driving it last night 15 miles or so I experience overheating tried blowing hot air in from the vents never got warm air , also I had filled up about 3.5 qts of oil before I left the garage my specifics for mine say 3.7 but when I was stopped engine off dipstick read basically nothing I was one shocked two even more shocked to see no signs of an external leak literally another 3.5 qts to something registered what’s goin on here lol also I’m sure the power steering belt needs tension adjusted due to how squeaky that became as I was stopped and restarted my engine
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Re: Refab’d engine break in period issues
Well my comment was based on your statement there was no external leaks. Being that the engine should be completely clean as it was just rebuilt, losing a gallon of oil through anything but the drain plug would leave a lot of drips.
Unless it was going out the exhaust and being burnt up in the catalytic converter.
Being as it was just rebuilt, your exhaust pipe bolts should not be rusted in place yet so two quick spins on those 12mm bolts and you can see if it’s coated.
As too reasons oil in exhaust, improper type/installation oil control rings, valve guild seals, pvc valve stuck are common.
Where did you get the replacement engine from? Usually they come with a warranty and that kind of oil consumption should qualify.
Unless it was going out the exhaust and being burnt up in the catalytic converter.
Being as it was just rebuilt, your exhaust pipe bolts should not be rusted in place yet so two quick spins on those 12mm bolts and you can see if it’s coated.
As too reasons oil in exhaust, improper type/installation oil control rings, valve guild seals, pvc valve stuck are common.
Where did you get the replacement engine from? Usually they come with a warranty and that kind of oil consumption should qualify.
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Well my comment was based on your statement there was no external leaks. Being that the engine should be completely clean as it was just rebuilt, losing a gallon of oil through anything but the drain plug would leave a lot of drips.
Unless it was going out the exhaust and being burnt up in the catalytic converter.
Being as it was just rebuilt, your exhaust pipe bolts should not be rusted in place yet so two quick spins on those 12mm bolts and you can see if it’s coated.
As too reasons oil in exhaust, improper type/installation oil control rings, valve guild seals, pvc valve stuck are common.
Where did you get the replacement engine from? Usually they come with a warranty and that kind of oil consumption should qualify.
Unless it was going out the exhaust and being burnt up in the catalytic converter.
Being as it was just rebuilt, your exhaust pipe bolts should not be rusted in place yet so two quick spins on those 12mm bolts and you can see if it’s coated.
As too reasons oil in exhaust, improper type/installation oil control rings, valve guild seals, pvc valve stuck are common.
Where did you get the replacement engine from? Usually they come with a warranty and that kind of oil consumption should qualify.
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From: Barrie, ON Canada
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Have you bled the air out of the coolant? Having the nose of the car elevated will help eliminate air bubbles
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Rep Power: 224 Re: Refab’d engine break in period issues
-Park the car on a slope so the front is higher than the rear. Wait until the engine is completely cool before beginning.
-Pop the hood and take the radiator cap off (again, make sure the engine is completely cooled off).
-Start the car and turn the heat and fan all the way on.
-Fill up the radiator as necessary. Let the car idle until the radiator fans kick on (20-30 minutes or so).
Doing this will ensure there is no air trapped in the system.
-Pop the hood and take the radiator cap off (again, make sure the engine is completely cooled off).
-Start the car and turn the heat and fan all the way on.
-Fill up the radiator as necessary. Let the car idle until the radiator fans kick on (20-30 minutes or so).
Doing this will ensure there is no air trapped in the system.
"Marge, anyone could miss Canada! All tucked away down there."
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From: Barrie, ON Canada
Rep Power: 222 Re: Refab’d engine break in period issues
-Park the car on a slope so the front is higher than the rear. Wait until the engine is completely cool before beginning.
-Pop the hood and take the radiator cap off (again, make sure the engine is completely cooled off).
-Start the car and turn the heat and fan all the way on.
-Fill up the radiator as necessary. Let the car idle until the radiator fans kick on (20-30 minutes or so).
Doing this will ensure there is no air trapped in the system.
-Pop the hood and take the radiator cap off (again, make sure the engine is completely cooled off).
-Start the car and turn the heat and fan all the way on.
-Fill up the radiator as necessary. Let the car idle until the radiator fans kick on (20-30 minutes or so).
Doing this will ensure there is no air trapped in the system.
hopefully you haven't screwed anything up driving around with air pockets in the system
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brotato thanks for the procedures on going about doing this and what coulda possibly been dammaged with said air pockets like I said I’ve literally only drove 15 miles then I noticed I was getting hot then stopped and towed it back
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If the temperature gauge never got all the way to "H" IMO I would just fill the coolant back up, get the air out, and try again. But you said the oil was way overfilled, are you sure it wasn't full of coolant? That would tell me the head gasket is leaking, maybe the head is warped, or possibly the head bolts were not torqued properly.
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