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Hello everyone,

My wife has a 05 Civic LX 4 door with 174000 miles on the clock. the head gasket is starting to go and the timing belt needs to be changed. I have replaced the timing chain on my 98 Camaro but never attempted this before. I have been researching how to do it, it doesnt seem very hard just involved. I am assuming the exhaust manifold will have to be removed but does thintake manifold need to come out or is it just better to take the head off with it then remove the intake? My wife is going to a SUV so this will be a summer project. any advise or tips would be much appreciated.

 
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You gotta take off the exhaust manifold, intake manifold, powersteering, alternator, and crankshaft pulley and all the coolant hoses on the side of the head. Just the coolant hoses. I'm in the same situation as you, I've started to take mine out.

 
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I knew about the taking basiclly the front of the motor off. The head gasket hasn't blown out yet but it is starting. other than the crak tool I shouldnt need any other special tool right?

 
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Nothing else really just get yourself a tool kit. The 2 main sockets you'll be using is just a 10mm and a 12mm

 
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Oh and a 14mm to take off the head bolts

 
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Check the headgasket link in my signature. Helpful info and links there

edit: If you don't have one, you'll need a 12-point 12mm socket for the head studs.

 
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Whats the best way to clean the block to get it ready for the new gasket? I've seen several opinons but not sure whats the best method. Some say they used sandpaper but others say don't.

 
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brake clean and a carefully utilised razor blade. the head surface and block surface have to be almost glass smooth. get the head checked for flatness by a machine shop. use oe head gasket

 
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Whats the part number of the tensioner spring? I can't seem to find it anywhere. I am assuming its just best to replace this.

 
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Spring: 14516-PLC-000
Tensioner (with spring): 14520-PLC-335
Belt: 14400-PMM-A02

Source: torontohondaparts.com

 
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Spring comes with the tensioner pulley kit from Honda. You do not want to buy one without the other.

Factory parts only on this.

 
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Thank you everyone. I am also concerned about the exhaust manifold. I fear that it will be a process to remove. What would the best way be to remove the bolts?

 
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For me?
I pull the manifold away from the cylinder head (clear of the studs) and let it drop as far as there is room to allow it
(disconnect O2 sensors and move wiring so it can be lowered, so you don't damage sensors or wiring!!!).

Impact gun and air ratchet as much as possible LOL
Heat shields bolts seem more likely to break than the manifold hardware at the cylinder head.

 
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Will my standard crank puller work on the civic or do i need a different one? I dont remember seeing any screw holes to attach my puller.

 
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The one 19mm bolt holds the crank pulley on. If it's never been off before, it's a tight **** and if you're trying to do it by hand you'll probably need the special tool that fits into the large hex.

Pulley slides right off after that bolt is out.

 
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How does a head gasket "start to go"? My girlfriend's son's '01 overheated the other day. It seems to be running fine, with no bubbles in the coolant, but I'm still a little concerned. We already have to do the timing belt..not sure it's worth the effort to pull the head and do the gasket/milling while we are there.

 
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Is the civic's overfill level keep rising to the top?

 
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What happened exactly when it overheated?

 
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IMO it doesn't really (it's either good or bad, no inbetween) but we might describe it as such when the breach/leakage problem is very slow (before it becomes real obvious) and very difficult for most people to detect.

 
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That's what is happening with my wife's. No leaks and no hydro carbon detected in the coolant but something is pushing it out of the overfill. so both my mechanic and I believe it's the gead gasket.

 
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I haven't driven it since it overheated yet. I had just picked it up from the Honda/Acura mechanic, who had given it the "Good buy!" stamp of approval, and was on the highway at about 80. I noticed that the A/C quit, and about two minutes later I looked at the temp gauge and it was on H. I immediately shut the engine down and popped the hood. Car went into limp mode upon restart, reservoir was empty, so I filled it up and got the car off the highway. Took the radiator cap off and filled it with water. Car started and ran just fine, stayed under 1/2 temp for the short one mile drive home. Once completely cooled at home, took the cap off, added more water, (it took half gallon total), checked the codes (P1362), cleared the codes, and now it sits. I'll be back on Sunday and will test drive it.

 
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It might not overheat until the radiator level goes low again.
How long before it goes low again?

Code.......You might want to check...see if the cam sensor melted.
Erase code, see if/when it returns?

 
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I won't know until we drive it around some, both on the coolant reduction and the code. He's learning to drive stick, so the car just sits unless I'm around to take him out in it. I don't think that will happen again until Monday.

 
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make sure you burp the cooling system with the nose elevated in case there's an air pocket trapped.

 
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*and heater on full heat

 
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*and heater fan OFF so the thermostat will open quicker

(temperature set for max heat though, for full antifreeze flow through the heater system)

 
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Wakko saw this in another thread, so Mechman, here is fro your reference.

https://www.civicforums.com/forums/3...reference.html

MechMan,

I removed the head on my 02 EX without removing the intake. It came out with the head.

not sure if there are differences on a 05, but I think not.

 
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I started removing the heat shield on the 05 civic and the left bottom bolt seems to be rounded. Any ideas on how to remove this? I am going to try a gator grip tomorrow though I may be able to move the shield enough to get to the exhaust bolts. Any help would be appreciated

 
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Pb blast them!

pliers?

if they don't budge, cut groove and use angled driver?

 
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I'm a huge fan of Metrinch.