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The y8 mani conversion is much more in depth than I originally thought. I explained everything to another guy on this forum. You should be able to search around and find it. If you use a standalone engine management system cel's aren't a problem. You can tell it which ones to pay attention to and which ones to ignore. If you can swing it at all, you need to use a standalone management. It will make your life so much easier. I've used a piggy back for like 6 months, and after switching over its made things so much better. Instead of fighting with a computer that wants to kill itself when it sees boost you have a nice computer that does whatever you want it to.

And yeah, that 6 million of pages of the foos epic build thread helped me a lot. It takes a while but read through it. There is a lot of off topic stuff and random conversation but there is a ton of very helpful information. Check his thread on 7thgenhonda too. I'm pretty sure all the updates of his are the same but the conversation is different and its got a lot of nice bits of info.

 
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My setup was essentially a Dezod kit. I used their manifold, FMIC and charge piping. Those are the only D17-specific items. The rest of the pieces are universal.

You don't need to move the MAP sensor.

 
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Just don't use JB weld on the map sensor.

 
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I know i'll check it out in depth when i have the kit in my hands as for the y8 mani.... sounds like more trouble then its worth tbh.

Might just stick stock for now

How comes?

 
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Oooooh, that hurts. That really hurts.

Well because. Have you decided on what aftermarket MAP sensor you are going to use? There is only one that fits in the stock MAP sensor location. All of the other ones will require you to either tap the intake mani, or run a vacuum line to it from somewhere else. Much easier to just leave the stocker there instead of trying to plug the hole with something and hoping that plug will hold under boost.

 
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No i havent..... you reckon sticking stock is best?

I'm just getting peoples opion, and any bung i make probably wouldnt hold under n/a let alone boost lol
But yeah i know what you mean.... will stay stock if thats easier, any reason pro's to actually moving "upgrading" the MAP sensor

 
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No. The stock MAP sensor will only work to about 9-11 psi. The one that Kpro sells on their website for the RSX is a direct replacement for the stock and can read up to 40 psi.

If you get the AEM one, it's not that difficult to tap a 1/4" NPT (or BSP) hole into the intake manifold for it to work.

Your other option is the GM (aka Motorola) 3 BAR MAP sensor, but you will have to run a line from a pressure port on the IM for that one.

 
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Well on what people have said im going to use k-pro not that i know how to use it but i'll learn.

So i'll check out there one....
In your experince is k pro a good idea? i will only be boosting 10psi max on stock internals and so on.....
Would you reccommend changing the head gasket before doing my turbo install?

 
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Kpro is a requirement in my opinion, not just a good idea. Plus it's pretty damn easy to set up and get tuned.

You will want to run ARP head studs (P/N 208-4301 works for the D17) on any boost build and that will necessitate changing out the head gasket.

 
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Yes i was going to get those first..... then get all the little bits then finnaly drop the cash and get a kit.

As far as k-pro goes what do i need to program it? and did you have any majour problems like CEL's and crap like that with your build?

Thanks again btw much apprciate all this

 
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Kpro can be programed on any modern laptop with a USB port, but you have to know what you're doing to tune the vehicle properly (fuel maps, ignition maps, etc..). They include several basemaps with the software (downloadable for free from Hondata) that will get you running well enough to drive it to a tuning shop, but are no means a substitute for a good dyno tune. I know there are a few shops in the greater London area that tune kpro.

You can disable all CELs with krpo, tell it to spoof the readiness codes (to pass MOT). IMO, it is hands down the best EMS out there for the D17 because it's effective and easy to use.

Go download Kmanager from Hondata and have a look at it. The Help file that comes with it is very thorough as well.

 
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I know, I know cheap shot.. its ok.. you have a new pretty project car to work on.

As for your map sensor, if you are sticking with the stock IM, I'd say get one of the hondata stock replacement ones. I think omni power makes one too but I don't remember exactly. If you are going to swap to the y8 mani, a GM or AEM one would prolly be easier because you can run a line to it and mount the MAP anywhere. With the stock plastic IM it's hard to do that.

 
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Cheers, will have a look on hondata now.... try and get the software. as for tuning how much is it going to be roughly for a good tune?

And is there no way to get one done myself?

Well i'll probably run k-pro's MAP sensor

 
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There is no way you should get it done by yourself. As far as how much? I don't know. Most shops were stupid expensive over there when I looked into it, but then again I was taking it in the shorts on the exchange rate. You're looking at $400-600 for a solid dyno tune in the states.

 
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I suppose this will sound silly but k-pro says its only for k series engines how to i go about getting it to work on a D?

EDIT, ok so i looked more and found it for the D17 but it talks about needed a new ECU and sending it off and all sorts do i have to do that?

 
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K-pro is a modified stock ECU from a k-series engine. You have to send off an ecu no matter what to get k-pro. For it to work on a d17 all that is required is a modified cam gear from hondata. Their website details everything you will need to do.

 
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damm, well looks like i'll be saving even more dosh..... fitting the cam gear wont be that easy either.
Well it'll take time rather then be difficult... plus i'll have to get the timing re-done.
Oh and do i just send off a d17 ecu? i.e find a donor one rather then mine for the time being....
This is a stupid question, but it does have to be a D17 ECU that i have to give them right?

 
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The cam gear is easy, that takes all of 20 minutes if you know what you're doing, and as long as you keep everything the same, you don't have to futz with the timing.

Look at the Hondata web page. You have to use either an RSX or EP3 ECU. The page lists the model numbers for the ECUs and what cars have them. You can not use a D17 ECU.

 
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So err.. will my engine work with the Kseries ECU?
i thought only D17 ECU would run D17...... sorry i really am stupid when it comes to electronics, and yeah foos, didnt think about not moving any timing ive been tired at work so not be soaking up infomation very well :P... of course it'll be easy as long as i take things easy and not get angry and resort to the nice shiny hammer

 
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Come on man. Read the Hondata website. It works.

You need the right k-series ECU. A shop sends it to Hondata, chips and recodes it, then sends it back to the shop programmed and ready to go. Since it's being used in a D17 you also get a special AEM cam gear that kpro knows how to read. Swap a couple O2 sensor wires around (also on the website) and you're done aside from tuning.

 
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Ok sorry for the really noob question, can imagine that did nothing for my street cred

Anyways cheers will keep you informed of what goes on from here .... just bought my exhaust, apexi N1 catback (no point doing mani as it will be replaced by turbo mani and d/p)

Tom

 
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I hope that's at least 2.5" exhaust.....

 
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It is, a 2.5" system i've learnt that much not to skimp on exhaust size... and again not to be too over zealous with the size.

So i settles on 2.5"

 
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That should be a good size for 200 hp, maybe a little more than that. I was hitting a wall right at 200 with a 2.25" exhaust if that gives you any idea of what you're looking at.