how can i get more power
how can i get more power
i want more power without a turbo kit and no nos i have intake,header,full exhaust what u have in mine to make more power i want my v-tech to pop harder how can i do that???????
Re: how can i get more power
Read all the replys in this:
https://www.civicforums.com/forums/4...-na-build.html
Also learn to search.
https://www.civicforums.com/forums/4...-na-build.html
Also learn to search.
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 8,362
Likes: 1
From: Portland, Oregon
Rep Power: 389 










Re: how can i get more power
Chips dont do ****.
If you want it to hit harder, then you got the wrong car. Trade in for a civic 2000 si, or pick up an integra- aka, something with a B series motor, the vtec on motors after these cars is not the same. Currently you have vtec-E, for economy. Google it.
If you want it to hit harder, then you got the wrong car. Trade in for a civic 2000 si, or pick up an integra- aka, something with a B series motor, the vtec on motors after these cars is not the same. Currently you have vtec-E, for economy. Google it.
Re: how can i get more power
full exhaust system, aftermarket header, intake, fpr, maybe a remap and vernier pulley... other than that your gain will be 20bhp tops.
like triz said you got the wrong car go buy a dc5 or ep3 ctr, if you wanna be diff keep the em2 and boost it
like triz said you got the wrong car go buy a dc5 or ep3 ctr, if you wanna be diff keep the em2 and boost it
Re: how can i get more power
NA power is hard to achieve on such a small motor... but here u go:
High lift cams
High compression pistons
Valve job
Over sized valves
Bore motor
Stroke motor
Bigger fuel injectors
underdrive pulleys
Lightweight flywheel
Chip
Blueprint and balance block
Lightweight rods
Lightweight crank
Intake manifold
Port and polish everything possible
Larger throttle body
Higher pressure fuel regulator
Synthetic oil
Synthetic oil filter
Cam gear
Velocity stack
Bullnose your crank (some people say knife edge is better)
Dry sump your oiling system (this would be more affective than anything else on list)
Get a vtec controller
Anything similar to an apexi super AFC
Lower temp. thermostat
Performance radiator
Water wetter
Hotter spark plugs
Better coil-on-plugs
Ignition control
Im sure I can think of more if you get through all those. Honestly though with such small displacement it is way easier to take advantage of the high RPM range these cars operate at and boost it. For a lot less money you will see way more power output off of a turbo. If you are going to build a fully built turbo D17 however, it is about the same price to K20 swap. So you could have a fully built D17 with 245whp on 14psi, or a stock K20 with 200 STOCK.
Good luck
p.s. v-tec means very tall engine coolant right???
High lift cams
High compression pistons
Valve job
Over sized valves
Bore motor
Stroke motor
Bigger fuel injectors
underdrive pulleys
Lightweight flywheel
Chip
Blueprint and balance block
Lightweight rods
Lightweight crank
Intake manifold
Port and polish everything possible
Larger throttle body
Higher pressure fuel regulator
Synthetic oil
Synthetic oil filter
Cam gear
Velocity stack
Bullnose your crank (some people say knife edge is better)
Dry sump your oiling system (this would be more affective than anything else on list)
Get a vtec controller
Anything similar to an apexi super AFC
Lower temp. thermostat
Performance radiator
Water wetter
Hotter spark plugs
Better coil-on-plugs
Ignition control
Im sure I can think of more if you get through all those. Honestly though with such small displacement it is way easier to take advantage of the high RPM range these cars operate at and boost it. For a lot less money you will see way more power output off of a turbo. If you are going to build a fully built turbo D17 however, it is about the same price to K20 swap. So you could have a fully built D17 with 245whp on 14psi, or a stock K20 with 200 STOCK.
Good luck
p.s. v-tec means very tall engine coolant right???
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 8,362
Likes: 1
From: Portland, Oregon
Rep Power: 389 










Re: how can i get more power
Blueprint and balance block
Higher pressure fuel regulator
Dry sump your oiling system (this would be more affective than anything else on list)
Lower temp. thermostat
Water wetter
Could you explain what these do exactly??
Higher pressure fuel regulator
Dry sump your oiling system (this would be more affective than anything else on list)
Lower temp. thermostat
Water wetter
Could you explain what these do exactly??
Re: how can i get more power
HAHA, I was waiting on that... it was a joke.
-Blueprinting the block is exactly what it sounds like (like the blueprint for a house plan). Basically they go through and make sure all tolerances are to spec, line bore the mains, hone the cylinders, check the eccentricity of the mains (orbital plain of travel of the crankshaft inside the bearings), magnaflux the block etc. etc.
-Balancing the block is when they go in and make sure everything is proportional to what it is suppose to be. IE: A lot of times they have to go through and drill holes in the counterweights on the crank to take away weight to make sure the crank is balanced from end to end. They also make sure the rods from center point, and the pistons from each side of the wrist pin are balanced.
-Higher pressure regulator... more pressure more fuel. Just make sure you have the oxygen to supply the hydrocarbon. Remember cars run better around 14.7 parts oxygen to 1 particle of fuel. (Run better not necessarily make more power)
-Dry sumping is good ****! Dry sump uses a pump usually with 5 sections some have 6. 4 sections send pressurized oil to the block and one section is a vacuum reclaimer that sucks oil back out of the block. The dry sump pump receives oil from from an external source usually a tank mounted in car or trunk. Which look very neat by the way. Ok, the advantage to all of this is that now there is NO oil for the crankshaft to have to spin through. When the crank does not have to drill its way through thick oil (which would normally be inside the oil pan) it spins much more freely and unrestricted. This frees up incredible amounts of power. It also creates a vacuum inside the crankcase. When the crankshaft spins inside of this vacuum it spins much more freely, resulting in not only faster revs but more power because of how much easier the crank can spin. So dry sumping adds power by removing the oil in the oil pan so the crank doesnt have to drill through it, and by also creating a vacuum inside the crankcase. I built a nextel cup motor at school that gained 47 hp on the engine dyno after the dry sump was installed. So you could aim for a good 20-30 hp on your D17. FYI: all stock car motors (nascar) use a dry sump system.
-Lower temp T-stat will open up earlier keeping the coolant cooler causing the ECT to send a message to the PCM saying throw more fuel at it.
-Water wetter will just keep you engine running cooler, resulting in similar effect as above^ but on a much smaller scale.
Ok, now that all this has been said about throwing fuel at the motor let me finish by saying LEANER IS MEANER (more AIR than FUEL.) The leaner you can run your motor the more power it will make due to increased heat. If you increase heat, you increase pressure. If you increase pressure you increase power. If you go too lean, however, your motor WILL blow. Now you must keep in mind that this is all relative to what you do. Example: stock D17, you lean it out a little (lets say 15:1) and gain a few ponies, BUT lets say you get bigger injectors and a camshaft that had high intake lift values and set your fuel curve back down around 14.7:1. You will now make more power than previously (15:1) because you are allowing more fuel and air into the cylinder. But if you were to lean out your new setup (the new setup being injectors and cam) you would make even more power. Like I said, leaner is meaner but you must realize its all relative to the other factors that you change.
Keep it simple and boost. Leave the natural power for the V8's. (I hate V8's by the way)
-Blueprinting the block is exactly what it sounds like (like the blueprint for a house plan). Basically they go through and make sure all tolerances are to spec, line bore the mains, hone the cylinders, check the eccentricity of the mains (orbital plain of travel of the crankshaft inside the bearings), magnaflux the block etc. etc.
-Balancing the block is when they go in and make sure everything is proportional to what it is suppose to be. IE: A lot of times they have to go through and drill holes in the counterweights on the crank to take away weight to make sure the crank is balanced from end to end. They also make sure the rods from center point, and the pistons from each side of the wrist pin are balanced.
-Higher pressure regulator... more pressure more fuel. Just make sure you have the oxygen to supply the hydrocarbon. Remember cars run better around 14.7 parts oxygen to 1 particle of fuel. (Run better not necessarily make more power)
-Dry sumping is good ****! Dry sump uses a pump usually with 5 sections some have 6. 4 sections send pressurized oil to the block and one section is a vacuum reclaimer that sucks oil back out of the block. The dry sump pump receives oil from from an external source usually a tank mounted in car or trunk. Which look very neat by the way. Ok, the advantage to all of this is that now there is NO oil for the crankshaft to have to spin through. When the crank does not have to drill its way through thick oil (which would normally be inside the oil pan) it spins much more freely and unrestricted. This frees up incredible amounts of power. It also creates a vacuum inside the crankcase. When the crankshaft spins inside of this vacuum it spins much more freely, resulting in not only faster revs but more power because of how much easier the crank can spin. So dry sumping adds power by removing the oil in the oil pan so the crank doesnt have to drill through it, and by also creating a vacuum inside the crankcase. I built a nextel cup motor at school that gained 47 hp on the engine dyno after the dry sump was installed. So you could aim for a good 20-30 hp on your D17. FYI: all stock car motors (nascar) use a dry sump system.
-Lower temp T-stat will open up earlier keeping the coolant cooler causing the ECT to send a message to the PCM saying throw more fuel at it.
-Water wetter will just keep you engine running cooler, resulting in similar effect as above^ but on a much smaller scale.
Ok, now that all this has been said about throwing fuel at the motor let me finish by saying LEANER IS MEANER (more AIR than FUEL.) The leaner you can run your motor the more power it will make due to increased heat. If you increase heat, you increase pressure. If you increase pressure you increase power. If you go too lean, however, your motor WILL blow. Now you must keep in mind that this is all relative to what you do. Example: stock D17, you lean it out a little (lets say 15:1) and gain a few ponies, BUT lets say you get bigger injectors and a camshaft that had high intake lift values and set your fuel curve back down around 14.7:1. You will now make more power than previously (15:1) because you are allowing more fuel and air into the cylinder. But if you were to lean out your new setup (the new setup being injectors and cam) you would make even more power. Like I said, leaner is meaner but you must realize its all relative to the other factors that you change.
Keep it simple and boost. Leave the natural power for the V8's. (I hate V8's by the way)
Last edited by LemmieHill; Jan 18, 2009 at 06:51 PM.
Re: how can i get more power
You can thank those german geniuses of WWII when they designed planes that could roll all the way over. Prior to then, when a plane would pitch to far one way or the other, the oil would drain out of the crank case causing catastrophic failure!! With the dry sump, no matter what the angle of the engine, it is receiving oil.
Re: how can i get more power
NA power is hard to achieve on such a small motor... but here u go:
High lift cams
High compression pistons
Valve job
Over sized valves
Bore motor
Stroke motor
Bigger fuel injectors
underdrive pulleys
Lightweight flywheel
Chip
Blueprint and balance block
Lightweight rods
Lightweight crank
Intake manifold
Port and polish everything possible
Larger throttle body
Higher pressure fuel regulator
Synthetic oil
Synthetic oil filter
Cam gear
Velocity stack
Bullnose your crank (some people say knife edge is better)
Dry sump your oiling system (this would be more affective than anything else on list)
Get a vtec controller
Anything similar to an apexi super AFC
Lower temp. thermostat
Performance radiator
Water wetter
Hotter spark plugs
Better coil-on-plugs
Ignition control
Im sure I can think of more if you get through all those. Honestly though with such small displacement it is way easier to take advantage of the high RPM range these cars operate at and boost it. For a lot less money you will see way more power output off of a turbo. If you are going to build a fully built turbo D17 however, it is about the same price to K20 swap. So you could have a fully built D17 with 245whp on 14psi, or a stock K20 with 200 STOCK.
Good luck
p.s. v-tec means very tall engine coolant right???
High lift cams
High compression pistons
Valve job
Over sized valves
Bore motor
Stroke motor
Bigger fuel injectors
underdrive pulleys
Lightweight flywheel
Chip
Blueprint and balance block
Lightweight rods
Lightweight crank
Intake manifold
Port and polish everything possible
Larger throttle body
Higher pressure fuel regulator
Synthetic oil
Synthetic oil filter
Cam gear
Velocity stack
Bullnose your crank (some people say knife edge is better)
Dry sump your oiling system (this would be more affective than anything else on list)
Get a vtec controller
Anything similar to an apexi super AFC
Lower temp. thermostat
Performance radiator
Water wetter
Hotter spark plugs
Better coil-on-plugs
Ignition control
Im sure I can think of more if you get through all those. Honestly though with such small displacement it is way easier to take advantage of the high RPM range these cars operate at and boost it. For a lot less money you will see way more power output off of a turbo. If you are going to build a fully built turbo D17 however, it is about the same price to K20 swap. So you could have a fully built D17 with 245whp on 14psi, or a stock K20 with 200 STOCK.
Good luck
p.s. v-tec means very tall engine coolant right???
Re: how can i get more power
as far as i know these cars, due to obd-1 cannot be chipped, alone engine manigment systems, emanage or aem maybe. and the sythetic oil/filter will not generate any power. Aswell it should be mentioned that most of the mods above will not do much without the other ones.... simly doin one or two of the above mentioned items will do close to nothing, and not worth the money compared to FI.
http://www.racepages.com/products/?D...94965335&Nty=1
and im sure that there are more.
Synthetic oil definitely increases horsepower. Due some research. Less friction, more output. The filter, no it doesnt add horsepower but why not run one anyway if you are going through all that trouble anyway.
The quys question was not how much horsepower he could generate NA, but how. And all of those ways are ways to do so. And no they do not add much power for the price compared to boosting, which is why I stated in my first reply to leave natural power to the V8's and simply boost. You should learn more about what you're talking about before posting.
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