Help with vtec !!!!!!!!!
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Help with vtec !!!!!!!!! I am new to this stuff but work on cars i sorta know how electronics work but i know the internals like pistons etc. but i was wondering is there and requirements for vtec to kick in like
no check engine , oil etc
SPECS: 2001 CIVIC EX AUTOMATIC
D17A2 WITH CATBACK EXHAUST
ITS A VTEC WITH 40K ON ENGINE
140K ON BODY AND TRANNY
SO THANSK for the replys
no check engine , oil etc
SPECS: 2001 CIVIC EX AUTOMATIC
D17A2 WITH CATBACK EXHAUST
ITS A VTEC WITH 40K ON ENGINE
140K ON BODY AND TRANNY
SO THANSK for the replys
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From: Funkytown, Tx
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From: TN
Rep Power: 367 Re: Help with vtec !!!!!!!!!
Joined: Dec 2008
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From: TN
Rep Power: 367 Re: Help with vtec !!!!!!!!!
get a civic repair manual in any car parts store (haynes) and you should have a electrical diagram of all your car. using that, you can make your own V-tec light.
That will also allow you to make several different repairs in your car yourself.
Note that i posted 2 different links, so check both.
That will also allow you to make several different repairs in your car yourself.
Note that i posted 2 different links, so check both.
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Last edited by lazlong; Aug 23, 2010 at 07:15 PM.
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i think youre pointing at the EGR valve in the first pic. vtec solenoid is behind the engine head where the oil pressure switch screws into.
as for vtec engaging, a few conditions need to be met on the d17a2:
1. coolant temp must be at normal operating range
2. engine must be above 4800 rpms
3. oil level (and pressure) must be at normal levels
4. gas pedal must be floored (full throttle)
5. speed must be over 15mph
only when all these conditions are met will the ecu send a 12v signal to the solenoid and change the cam profile. yes, vtec is for racing use. if you manually adjust the vtec change-over rpm, you will gradually destroy the engine.
as for vtec engaging, a few conditions need to be met on the d17a2:
1. coolant temp must be at normal operating range
2. engine must be above 4800 rpms
3. oil level (and pressure) must be at normal levels
4. gas pedal must be floored (full throttle)
5. speed must be over 15mph
only when all these conditions are met will the ecu send a 12v signal to the solenoid and change the cam profile. yes, vtec is for racing use. if you manually adjust the vtec change-over rpm, you will gradually destroy the engine.
Last edited by gearbox; Aug 23, 2010 at 07:08 PM.
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as for vtec engaging, a few conditions need to be met on the d17a2:
1. coolant temp must be at normal operating range
2. engine must be above 4800 rpms
3. oil level (and pressure) must be at normal levels
4. gas pedal must be floored (full throttle)
5. speed must be over 15mph
1. coolant temp must be at normal operating range
2. engine must be above 4800 rpms
3. oil level (and pressure) must be at normal levels
4. gas pedal must be floored (full throttle)
5. speed must be over 15mph
thanks
big guys are in the room now, so i will leave!
Last edited by sdaidoji; Aug 23, 2010 at 07:14 PM.
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Thread Starter
Registered!!
Joined: Aug 2010
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From: Cleveland, Ohio
Rep Power: 193 Re: Help with vtec !!!!!!!!!
i think youre pointing at the EGR valve in the first pic. vtec solenoid is behind the engine head where the oil pressure switch screws into.
as for vtec engaging, a few conditions need to be met on the d17a2:
1. coolant temp must be at normal operating range
2. engine must be above 4800 rpms
3. oil level (and pressure) must be at normal levels
4. gas pedal must be floored (full throttle)
5. speed must be over 15mph
only when all these conditions are met will the ecu send a 12v signal to the solenoid and change the cam profile. yes, vtec is for racing use. if you manually adjust the vtec change-over rpm, you will gradually destroy the engine.
as for vtec engaging, a few conditions need to be met on the d17a2:
1. coolant temp must be at normal operating range
2. engine must be above 4800 rpms
3. oil level (and pressure) must be at normal levels
4. gas pedal must be floored (full throttle)
5. speed must be over 15mph
only when all these conditions are met will the ecu send a 12v signal to the solenoid and change the cam profile. yes, vtec is for racing use. if you manually adjust the vtec change-over rpm, you will gradually destroy the engine.
sorry, couldn't help when i read that portion! Registered!!
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From: Funkytown, Tx
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Ok, from the other thread about steel/aluminum oilpans on the A1 and A2 I figured out that I have an A2 in my 2001 EX. The v-tec comes on at about 2800rpm or so. This leads me to believe the previous owner blew the engine and put the original v-tec solenoid on it (among other things). Do you think I'm slowly destroying my engine, I've already run 70K?
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From: TN
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Ok, from the other thread about steel/aluminum oilpans on the A1 and A2 I figured out that I have an A2 in my 2001 EX. The v-tec comes on at about 2800rpm or so. This leads me to believe the previous owner blew the engine and put the original v-tec solenoid on it (among other things). Do you think I'm slowly destroying my engine, I've already run 70K?
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From: Cedar Rapids, Iowa, US
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From: TN
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they wanted to know how to make sure it was working, so this was one of the ways to be sure!
Is it useful? Not at all, actually.
Last edited by sdaidoji; Aug 23, 2010 at 08:58 PM.
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From: TN
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I was actually thinking more about. (rare stuff).
Honestly, when the Vtec is not engaging, the ECU (smarter than most of the average drivers) will not let the engine rev above the engaing point of the VTEC, so just get over it. If the engine gets over 4k, say 5k, just forget it. VTEC is working and look for some other things, like old air filters holding the engine back.
end.
Honestly, when the Vtec is not engaging, the ECU (smarter than most of the average drivers) will not let the engine rev above the engaing point of the VTEC, so just get over it. If the engine gets over 4k, say 5k, just forget it. VTEC is working and look for some other things, like old air filters holding the engine back.
end.
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From: NV
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guys the vtec light does not mean that the cam is switching over. our engines use a vtec-e (economy) which is more complicated. im sure some stuff happens between 2800-3000rpms, but in order for full vtec to engage (all valves open, new cam profile), those conditions need to be met that i posted. why would vtec, a system designed for hi rpm driving with a more aggressive cam, come on when driving at low rpm? it would kill the gas mileage and make the engine run like crap. i wish i could find that thread when a member did all the testing with a data logger.
Last edited by gearbox; Aug 23, 2010 at 10:28 PM.
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From: NV
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i found it!! heres what the member found out on a d17a2 when he was watching the readout...i remembered most of it lol. if you guys want to test this, you can hook a multimeter/voltmeter to the vtec solenoid wire while driving. unless it reads 12v, the vtec is OFF so to speak. if it reads only 3-9v (plenty of power to light up an LED), the vtec solenoid has not been activated.
1 Your MAP (Manifold Absolute Pressure) sensor must read 0hg (aka 0 inches of vacuum). When it reads this it will send a 3volt signal to the ECU.
2. Your throttle has to be open 100% because your TPS sensor has to send a 4.5-volt signal to the ECU.
3. Your coolant temp has to be at running temp.
4. Vehicle speed has to be above 20mph.
5. You have to have 65-80 oil psi.
6. The engine must be running at a minimum of 4500 RPM
When all of this happens your ECU sends a 12-volt signal to your VTEC solenoid.
2. Your throttle has to be open 100% because your TPS sensor has to send a 4.5-volt signal to the ECU.
3. Your coolant temp has to be at running temp.
4. Vehicle speed has to be above 20mph.
5. You have to have 65-80 oil psi.
6. The engine must be running at a minimum of 4500 RPM
When all of this happens your ECU sends a 12-volt signal to your VTEC solenoid.
Last edited by gearbox; Aug 23, 2010 at 10:34 PM.
