DIY for HYPERBLINKER...**DETAILED**
02-12-2003
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DIY for HYPERBLINKER...
**DON'T WASTE YOUR MONEY FOR RELAYS OR LABOR IN THE RESISTORS**
CHEAPEST HYPERBLINKER AVAILABLE:
...take out your 7443 bulb (front signal) form the headlight assembly through the fenderwell
...look at the bulb leads (connectors)
...there should be 2 on each side of the 'wedge'
...the lead on the right side of each side is the 21W lead
...bend the right lead (21W) on each side down and snip them off with fingernail clippers
...that takes the 21W out of the loop
...now it's a 5W bulb which creates less resistance
...the connectors won't hook-up properly this way though
so you'll need to bend down the 5W leads as you did the 21W and
flip them to the other side right where the 21W would have been
...replace the bulb back into the socket until it 'clicks'
...after you've done both sides
...turn on the 'hazzard' lights to insure that they still work properly
...don't worry...the 'hazzards' will blink as normal since the loop will look at all the bulbs
...turn off the 'hazzards' and then turn the key to the #2 position
...turn on either signal
BAM!! HYPERBLINKER!!
*The only thing that you will lose with this mod is your 'amber' parking light*
I DON'T MIND THIS THOUGH BECAUSE NOW THE BLINKERS (FRONT / REAR)
ONLY COME ON WHEN I ACTUALLY WANT THEM TO SIGNAL
BTW...This is to make them 2X faster
If you happen to screw up the bulbs...just go buy 7443's for like $4.00
If your headlights are 'cleared'...buy 'amber' 7443's and you can still do the mod.
HOPE THIS HELPS SOME OF YOU OUT...
*****THANK YOU profurious*****
CHEAPEST HYPERBLINKER AVAILABLE:
...take out your 7443 bulb (front signal) form the headlight assembly through the fenderwell
...look at the bulb leads (connectors)
...there should be 2 on each side of the 'wedge'
...the lead on the right side of each side is the 21W lead
...bend the right lead (21W) on each side down and snip them off with fingernail clippers
...that takes the 21W out of the loop
...now it's a 5W bulb which creates less resistance
...the connectors won't hook-up properly this way though
so you'll need to bend down the 5W leads as you did the 21W and
flip them to the other side right where the 21W would have been
...replace the bulb back into the socket until it 'clicks'
...after you've done both sides
...turn on the 'hazzard' lights to insure that they still work properly
...don't worry...the 'hazzards' will blink as normal since the loop will look at all the bulbs
...turn off the 'hazzards' and then turn the key to the #2 position
...turn on either signal
BAM!! HYPERBLINKER!!
*The only thing that you will lose with this mod is your 'amber' parking light*
I DON'T MIND THIS THOUGH BECAUSE NOW THE BLINKERS (FRONT / REAR)
ONLY COME ON WHEN I ACTUALLY WANT THEM TO SIGNAL
BTW...This is to make them 2X faster
If you happen to screw up the bulbs...just go buy 7443's for like $4.00
If your headlights are 'cleared'...buy 'amber' 7443's and you can still do the mod.
HOPE THIS HELPS SOME OF YOU OUT...
*****THANK YOU profurious*****
02-12-2003
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Rep Power: 424 Why do we need a pic or vid??
It's 2X faster...If you want to see how it looks (speed-wise)...just take out one of the bulbs and turn on the signal...
and it's a $4.00 part to replace if you don't want or like it...
It's 2X faster...If you want to see how it looks (speed-wise)...just take out one of the bulbs and turn on the signal...
and it's a $4.00 part to replace if you don't want or like it...
02-12-2003
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Rep Power: 0 hey falken i did it and it works great! but do you need that this messes up the electricals in any way... it seems like im working the signal too much. what im trying to ask is, is it bad for the signal to be working twice as fast?
02-12-2003
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Rep Power: 424 I don't think that it would do anything to the 'electricals'...(just confusing the loop is all)
*Personally...I only use them when i'm changing lanes*
[IMG]i/expressions/demon.gif[/IMG]
*Personally...I only use them when i'm changing lanes*
[IMG]i/expressions/demon.gif[/IMG]
02-12-2003
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Rep Power: 558 hey, sounds like a nice mod. but since now youre using 5W instead of 21W, wont the light be less bright? and if not, wont it burn out quicker?
im just asking cause i snipped the 5W lead so that the light only blinks when i want it to and doesnt come on w/ the parking lights...and the 5W fillament is a lot thinner than the 21W one (obviously)...so im just wondering how this cuts into the life of the bulb.
another way to do this (slightly more expencive) is to buy LED 7443 bulbs, and cut the leads that coincide w/ the 5W leads. this should do the trick also...plus the LEDs are clear when they are off so you dont get that orange egg yolk look if you clear your lights. but like i said, the LED bulbs are like $20 instead of 4...but they will most likely last a whole lot longer.
im just asking cause i snipped the 5W lead so that the light only blinks when i want it to and doesnt come on w/ the parking lights...and the 5W fillament is a lot thinner than the 21W one (obviously)...so im just wondering how this cuts into the life of the bulb.
another way to do this (slightly more expencive) is to buy LED 7443 bulbs, and cut the leads that coincide w/ the 5W leads. this should do the trick also...plus the LEDs are clear when they are off so you dont get that orange egg yolk look if you clear your lights. but like i said, the LED bulbs are like $20 instead of 4...but they will most likely last a whole lot longer.
02-12-2003
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[hr]Originally posted by: PbFoot
hey, sounds like a nice mod. but since now youre using 5W instead of 21W, wont the light be less bright? and if not, wont it burn out quicker?
im just asking cause i snipped the 5W lead so that the light only blinks when i want it to and doesnt come on w/ the parking lights...and the 5W fillament is a lot thinner than the 21W one (obviously)...so im just wondering how this cuts into the life of the bulb.
another way to do this (slightly more expencive) is to buy LED 7443 bulbs, and cut the leads that coincide w/ the 5W leads. this should do the trick also...plus the LEDs are clear when they are off so you dont get that orange egg yolk look if you clear your lights. but like i said, the LED bulbs are like $20 instead of 4...but they will most likely last a whole lot longer.[hr]
[hr]Originally posted by: PbFoot
hey, sounds like a nice mod. but since now youre using 5W instead of 21W, wont the light be less bright? and if not, wont it burn out quicker?
im just asking cause i snipped the 5W lead so that the light only blinks when i want it to and doesnt come on w/ the parking lights...and the 5W fillament is a lot thinner than the 21W one (obviously)...so im just wondering how this cuts into the life of the bulb.
another way to do this (slightly more expencive) is to buy LED 7443 bulbs, and cut the leads that coincide w/ the 5W leads. this should do the trick also...plus the LEDs are clear when they are off so you dont get that orange egg yolk look if you clear your lights. but like i said, the LED bulbs are like $20 instead of 4...but they will most likely last a whole lot longer.[hr]
YES...not quite 'as' bright but still bright (who cares...still looks tight)
NO...should not burn-out any quicker than normal (if so, $4.00/pair)
GOOD THOUGHT ON THE 5W snip, but cutting the 5W will not give a HYPERBLINKER though
(isn't that what this is about)
LED...sure it would work and look real clean, but then again...$4.00 vs. $20.00
02-12-2003
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[hr]Originally posted by: 18inchpride
I WANNA SEE A VIDEO!!!!!!!! because I really want to see if its worth it![hr]
[hr]Originally posted by: 18inchpride
I WANNA SEE A VIDEO!!!!!!!! because I really want to see if its worth it![hr]
it's worth the 10min. and $4.00 if you mess up
02-12-2003
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[hr]Originally posted by: FALKEN
YES...not quite 'as' bright but still bright (who cares...still looks tight)
NO...should not burn-out any quicker than normal (if so, $4.00/pair)
GOOD THOUGHT ON THE 5W snip, but cutting the 5W will not give a HYPERBLINKER though
(isn't that what this is about)
LED...sure it would work and look real clean, but then again...$4.00 vs. $20.00
[hr]
[hr]Originally posted by: FALKEN
YES...not quite 'as' bright but still bright (who cares...still looks tight)
NO...should not burn-out any quicker than normal (if so, $4.00/pair)
GOOD THOUGHT ON THE 5W snip, but cutting the 5W will not give a HYPERBLINKER though
(isn't that what this is about)
LED...sure it would work and look real clean, but then again...$4.00 vs. $20.00
[hr]
but i do like the hyperblinker tho. when i put in my LEDs i was pleasantly surprized. hahahahaha
now i just have to see if the 3157 bulbs will really replace the 7443.
thanks tho...good DYI!!
02-20-2003
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Rep Power: 0 Not to rain on your parade or anything but the original hyperblinker DIY (no longer works) was better, cheaper and easier to reverse.
All that required was to take out the blinker relay (within the the steering wheel fuse box) and replace a resistor. And resistors are cheap. The only other materials needed is a soldering iron.
Anyway, like a few people here, I made an ADJUSTABLE hyperblinker by replacing the resistor with a potentiometer (variable resistor). So, I can change my blinker speed from normal to strobe light and anywhere in-between. I just wish I was able to find a slider potentiometer rather than a dial.
All that required was to take out the blinker relay (within the the steering wheel fuse box) and replace a resistor. And resistors are cheap. The only other materials needed is a soldering iron.
Anyway, like a few people here, I made an ADJUSTABLE hyperblinker by replacing the resistor with a potentiometer (variable resistor). So, I can change my blinker speed from normal to strobe light and anywhere in-between. I just wish I was able to find a slider potentiometer rather than a dial.
02-21-2003
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[hr]Originally posted by: Player1
Not to rain on your parade or anything but the original hyperblinker DIY (no longer works) was better, cheaper and easier to reverse.
All that required was to take out the blinker relay (within the the steering wheel fuse box) and replace a resistor. And resistors are cheap. The only other materials needed is a soldering iron.
Anyway, like a few people here, I made an ADJUSTABLE hyperblinker by replacing the resistor with a potentiometer (variable resistor). So, I can change my blinker speed from normal to strobe light and anywhere in-between. I just wish I was able to find a slider potentiometer rather than a dial.[hr]
[hr]Originally posted by: Player1
Not to rain on your parade or anything but the original hyperblinker DIY (no longer works) was better, cheaper and easier to reverse.
All that required was to take out the blinker relay (within the the steering wheel fuse box) and replace a resistor. And resistors are cheap. The only other materials needed is a soldering iron.
Anyway, like a few people here, I made an ADJUSTABLE hyperblinker by replacing the resistor with a potentiometer (variable resistor). So, I can change my blinker speed from normal to strobe light and anywhere in-between. I just wish I was able to find a slider potentiometer rather than a dial.[hr]
How is that any easier or cheaper??
**ALL I NEED IS 10min...A FLAT-HEAD SCREWDRIVER AND SOMETHING TO CLIP THE LEADS**
Your DIY sounds like it involves a lot more than mine
BTW...how much is a soldering iron with solder??
*THIS DIY COSTS NOTHING*
02-21-2003
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Rep Power: 0 Okay, maybe this one's not cheaper (unless you mess up a bulb) but it's still easy to do. I grabbed a few resistors from my old 286 computer though initially.
I already had the soldering iron and solder. It costs a few cents for a resistor, a bit more for potentiometer.
Also, it's easily reversible. I can go back to stock speed while driving as well with the potentiometer. Good when cops around or when you don't want attention.
My pros:
1. It's also easier to remove the relay from under the steering wheel than to remove the bulbs. Less work. You can work on the relay inside the house.
Don't have to get into fenderwell. Getting the relay out requires unscrewing one screw if I recall correctly.
2. My hazard lights also blink hyper (if I want them to).
3. I don't lose my parking lights.
4. With potentiometer, I can adjust speed while driving. I wired my potentiometer to the change holder thing.
5. Does not require bending of parts.
6. Looks cooler when you vary the speeds while the light is going. [IMG]i/expressions/face-icon-small-smile.gif[/IMG] I like to increase the blinker speed while accelerating so people think it's somehow linked to my spedometer/tach.
7. I don't have to redo any steps when my bulbs fry.
My cons:
1. You could damage the relay easily meaning no blinkers if you've got shaky hands.
2. This DIY costs a bit more but definitely worth it (if yours is free).
3. This takes a little longer because it requires buying resistor/potentiometer but once you have the part, it takes about 10 min too. But once done, switching speeds takes only a second.
I'll try to recall the DIY from my brain somewhere... It wasn't mine to begin with. It used to be in the DIY page.
- remove fuse box cover under steering wheel.
- unbolt fuse box (kinda to the right of the steering wheel)
- slide box down.
- remove blinker relay (it's just a small black box that clips in; has 3 leads)
- Open relay
- remove 1333 or 133K resistor (can't recall exactly what it said).
- replace resistor with your own. Half the original resistance = 2x speed. (I used a potentionmeter in this case for adjustability).
- close up relay and re-insert.
- slide fuse box back up and screw it back on.
I already had the soldering iron and solder. It costs a few cents for a resistor, a bit more for potentiometer.
Also, it's easily reversible. I can go back to stock speed while driving as well with the potentiometer. Good when cops around or when you don't want attention.
My pros:
1. It's also easier to remove the relay from under the steering wheel than to remove the bulbs. Less work. You can work on the relay inside the house.
Don't have to get into fenderwell. Getting the relay out requires unscrewing one screw if I recall correctly.
2. My hazard lights also blink hyper (if I want them to).
3. I don't lose my parking lights.
4. With potentiometer, I can adjust speed while driving. I wired my potentiometer to the change holder thing.
5. Does not require bending of parts.
6. Looks cooler when you vary the speeds while the light is going. [IMG]i/expressions/face-icon-small-smile.gif[/IMG] I like to increase the blinker speed while accelerating so people think it's somehow linked to my spedometer/tach.
7. I don't have to redo any steps when my bulbs fry.
My cons:
1. You could damage the relay easily meaning no blinkers if you've got shaky hands.
2. This DIY costs a bit more but definitely worth it (if yours is free).
3. This takes a little longer because it requires buying resistor/potentiometer but once you have the part, it takes about 10 min too. But once done, switching speeds takes only a second.
I'll try to recall the DIY from my brain somewhere... It wasn't mine to begin with. It used to be in the DIY page.
- remove fuse box cover under steering wheel.
- unbolt fuse box (kinda to the right of the steering wheel)
- slide box down.
- remove blinker relay (it's just a small black box that clips in; has 3 leads)
- Open relay
- remove 1333 or 133K resistor (can't recall exactly what it said).
- replace resistor with your own. Half the original resistance = 2x speed. (I used a potentionmeter in this case for adjustability).
- close up relay and re-insert.
- slide fuse box back up and screw it back on.
02-21-2003
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Rep Power: 0 That's true. But options are good! At least your DIY is complete and your own. The one mentioned by me used to be in the DIY section but the link has gone bad. I'm missing some info.
02-21-2003
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[hr]Originally posted by: Player1
At least your DIY is complete and your own.[hr]
[hr]Originally posted by: Player1
At least your DIY is complete and your own.[hr]
Actually...I have to give some props to 'profurious'
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