!!!!!!!SPEEDOMETER DEAD!!!!!!!!
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From: Lockport, Illinois, US
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HELP on Kamikaze header!!!
just installed my kamikaze header, and after extending the wires, the check engine light went on and after driving around 5 miles my battery light came on and on my gauges the volts dropped from 14-12. I looked at my speedo and it just dropped to zero and stayed like that. Also my air2fuel guage was reading really really rich. Need help bad [IMG]i/expressions/face-icon-small-frown.gif[/IMG] [IMG]i/expressions/face-icon-small-frown.gif[/IMG] 
EDIT: now my speedometer is only dead. my battery light is on. Its still at 12 volts instead of 14. what could be wrong?
EDIT: now my speedometer is only dead. my battery light is on. Its still at 12 volts instead of 14. what could be wrong?
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Isn't there some module that you have to buy?
its something that tricks the sensor into thinking that nothing has changed......i forget what it is called.
EDIT: Found it
Comptech ESM (Electronic Signal Modifier)
Comptech ESM (Electronic Signal Modifier) This adjustable switch is commonly used to keep the ECU from seeing a boost signal from the MAP Sensor when you are adding a turbo or supercharger to a car that didn't come that way. Can be used on any car or sensor up to 3.4 volts. Easy4 wire hookup. Comes adjusted for Honda/Acura MAP voltage signal, but is easily adjusted to needs of other cars. Universal fit. Not subject to CARB certification.
its something that tricks the sensor into thinking that nothing has changed......i forget what it is called.
EDIT: Found it
Comptech ESM (Electronic Signal Modifier)
Comptech ESM (Electronic Signal Modifier) This adjustable switch is commonly used to keep the ECU from seeing a boost signal from the MAP Sensor when you are adding a turbo or supercharger to a car that didn't come that way. Can be used on any car or sensor up to 3.4 volts. Easy4 wire hookup. Comes adjusted for Honda/Acura MAP voltage signal, but is easily adjusted to needs of other cars. Universal fit. Not subject to CARB certification.
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From: Seattle, Washington, US
Rep Power: 0 thats never heard of...maybe you should check your wires again...your check engine lights and all you other lights shouldnt have poped up soo fast... i think that thing is called a MAP sensor or something like that i forgot also!!!
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Quote
[hr]Originally posted by: KeNsHiN
damm dude that sounds bad[IMG]i/expressions/face-icon-small-frown.gif[/IMG] i wikll reasearch for you
[hr]
[hr]Originally posted by: KeNsHiN
damm dude that sounds bad[IMG]i/expressions/face-icon-small-frown.gif[/IMG] i wikll reasearch for you
[hr]
You're the damn black sheep of the BoB.
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From: San Bernardino, California, US
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[hr]Originally posted by: FlyRiceRacer02
Isn't there some module that you have to buy?
its something that tricks the sensor into thinking that nothing has changed......i forget what it is called.
EDIT: Found it
Comptech ESM (Electronic Signal Modifier)
Comptech ESM (Electronic Signal Modifier) This adjustable switch is commonly used to keep the ECU from seeing a boost signal from the MAP Sensor when you are adding a turbo or supercharger to a car that didn't come that way. Can be used on any car or sensor up to 3.4 volts. Easy4 wire hookup. Comes adjusted for Honda/Acura MAP voltage signal, but is easily adjusted to needs of other cars. Universal fit. Not subject to CARB certification. [hr]
[hr]Originally posted by: FlyRiceRacer02
Isn't there some module that you have to buy?
its something that tricks the sensor into thinking that nothing has changed......i forget what it is called.
EDIT: Found it
Comptech ESM (Electronic Signal Modifier)
Comptech ESM (Electronic Signal Modifier) This adjustable switch is commonly used to keep the ECU from seeing a boost signal from the MAP Sensor when you are adding a turbo or supercharger to a car that didn't come that way. Can be used on any car or sensor up to 3.4 volts. Easy4 wire hookup. Comes adjusted for Honda/Acura MAP voltage signal, but is easily adjusted to needs of other cars. Universal fit. Not subject to CARB certification. [hr]
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[hr]Originally posted by: Smokie2k2LX
Doesn't that sound like a problem with the alternator?[hr]
[hr]Originally posted by: Smokie2k2LX
Doesn't that sound like a problem with the alternator?[hr]
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Rep Power: 0 well, i already reset the ecu. i had the battery unhooked all night. is that the right way to do it? [IMG]i/expressions/face-icon-small-smile.gif[/IMG] if i'm supposed to disconnect fuses, which ones?
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From: Coventry, Rhode Island, US
Rep Power: 0 Yes you want to pull the 15a fuse labeled F.I. ECU. That will reset just the ECU and not your radio settings, etc etc. The product from diablo is an o2 simulator. Most people put these in with the HP header w/hi flo cat. It will trick the ECU into thinking that the 2nd o2 sensor is getting a proper reading with the cat. CEL should come on after your 2nd long trip. Mine came on after my second long trip and i drove it for about 3 days with the light on and it went off. (I was going to get the simulator the day it shut off) so i saved myself like 60 bux...if it is a CEL for the o2 sensor, i would just let it ride for a few days and it will go out...save yourself a few bucks....but by what you are describing it doesn't sound like a CEL for your o2 would cause the spedo to drop and your alternator to produce less voltage...Check the code that your ECU is throwing, that should give you a good idea where to start.
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[hr]Originally posted by: xblkcivicx
Check the code that your ECU is throwing, that should give you a good idea where to start.[hr]
[hr]Originally posted by: xblkcivicx
Check the code that your ECU is throwing, that should give you a good idea where to start.[hr]
To reset the engine ECU pull the blue 15 Amp fuse. It's number 6 in the fuse box in the engine bay. Look on the back side of the fuse box lid to see which one it is.
###
##x
###
X marks the spot, it's one of the smaller fuses. There's a fuse puller in the fuse box. Find it.
Um, it sounds like the sensor wires aren't hooked up properly. That's why it was so rich. Re-check the sensor wiring. Solder it! I don't know... Then try it again.
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From: South Jersey
Rep Power: 0 Shedding light on the voltage.... Honda alternators have a voltage regulator that operated between 12 and 14 volts. The system only operates at 14 volts if it needs it (i.e. battery charging, headlights on...) but most of the time the alternator operates at 12 volts....
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From: Longmont
Rep Power: 0 Yeah the ECU scannar is pretty costly, A perfomance shop could order one for you. I wouldn't spend the money on one unless you work on hondas a lot.
Did you get the car to start? If not do what they said check the wires around header, there is on just the right of the header that is connected to the alternator when it comes lose the car will start but the alternator won't charge the engine so you will probably only be able to start it once or twice. the connection is under a rubber cap or sorts. check that.
Did you get the car to start? If not do what they said check the wires around header, there is on just the right of the header that is connected to the alternator when it comes lose the car will start but the alternator won't charge the engine so you will probably only be able to start it once or twice. the connection is under a rubber cap or sorts. check that.
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From: Lockport, Illinois, US
Rep Power: 0 he's probably not gonna be online today, but he just called me and told me now his volts guage is down to around 8.5-8 and his oil temp, rpm, speedo, and fuel gauges all dont work. also his mileage was reset and its all zero. [IMG]i/expressions/face-icon-small-confused.gif[/IMG] he's goin to honda tommorow hopefully.
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Quote
[hr]Originally posted by: torqen2k1
On the exhaust senser their are two white cables does it matter which white cable goes to a white cable.[hr]
[hr]Originally posted by: torqen2k1
On the exhaust senser their are two white cables does it matter which white cable goes to a white cable.[hr]
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[hr]Originally posted by: torqen2k1
On the exhaust senser their are two white cables does it matter which white cable goes to a white cable.[hr]
[hr]Originally posted by: torqen2k1
On the exhaust senser their are two white cables does it matter which white cable goes to a white cable.[hr]
and the air/fuel gauge gets hooked up to the black cable right?
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Rep Power: 0 Well now I put my stock header on and hooked up the exhaust sensers to the header and is ready rich! So the cable for the air/fuel gauge is supposed to be hooked up to the black cable right?[IMG]i/expressions/face-icon-small-confused.gif[/IMG]
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Rep Power: 0 Well Im sellin my parts off my car because I have no job and have to pay for monthly payments also I own my mom $1k and also Im plannin on sellin my car by the summer because I dont like paying monthly payments also every time I work on my car at home my mom bitche$ at me cause "cause I have a new car and Im gona void the warrenty and ect" so Im not goin to have to worry about car payments and warrenty and my mom bitchen at me all the time. I am goin to sell all my parts that I bought for my car: Thermal R&D header-back exhaust fully stainless steel, used for like two months, my Kamikaze ceramic header used for like 10 miles, my AEM blue cold air intake used 4 months with a new K&N air filter very clean, my Ground Control coilovers brand new in box never used, my DC sports strut tower bar (chrome) almost new used 2 weeks perfect condtion, DC sports rear lower tie bar 4 months old, and my DC sports shift adapter perfect condition,
for $1,500 OBO
for $1,500 OBO
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