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Does anyone have a DIY on replacing the front brake pads? Because my car is making a slight scraping sound. Thank you. I tried the DIY on the site, but web page is missing.

 
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I believe Grey did. PM him or search for breaks posted by Grey. BTW, your pads are very easy to change, tackle it and you will see. Don't forget to turn your rotors.

 
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its very easy

http://www.7thgencivic.com/forum/arcmessageview.cfm?catid=7&threadid=21621

this might help, but it didnt tell u exactly how to change pads, but basically take off your wheels, unscrew the "2" bolt on the calipar (TOP AND BOTTOM BOLTS), than u can remove the calipar, take off old brake pads, clean your brake with brake cleaner, put back new pads, dont forget to put back the piece of metal on the outside of the brake pads, u know what i mean after u take it off, than u will see that u cant put back the callipar because the new pads are too thick, heres 2 ways to do it, i loosen the third bold a bit (middle one on calipar where it connects to the brake line and push back the ring enough so u can fit it back with new brake pads, u'll loose some brake fluid this way, messy), my friend told me thats not the right way, he told me to just open the cap for brake fluid (in the engine bay and push backthe ring on the calipar), just tighten up everything and u are done, take about 10-15 mins for one side from take off the wheels to put back the wheels

 
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The above is correct but here is a little help to speed you up. You only need to remove the bottom mounting bolt and loosen the top bolt slightly on the caliper and then just swing it up and out of the way. The caliper will pivot out of the way on the top bolt, that way you don't have to completly remove the caliper. I found this information in the Civic Service Manual. Also when you go to push the piston back in get a small bucket and some airline hose, like the stuff they use on fish tanks, put the air line hose over the top of the bleeder valve and run it to the bucket. When you break the bleeder valve loose the fluid will run into the bucket and not all over your hand, and you should be able to push the piston back in by hand.

 
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its also good to flush your brake system when the best dot3 brake fluid u can get, i changed to aem pads a few days ago and i notice less effort to brake, than i flush 1/2 of the brake system last nite with canadian tires best dot3 fluid and notice a BIG difference in braking effort on top of the pads, and i only flush half of it, but u need 2 ppl to do the flush, one to step on the brake another one to losen the bolts while the first one step on the brake.........dunno how to put it in text, but if u do it, get the highest temperture dot 3 fluid

 
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haha, yeah, save u alot of time cleaning all the fluids off your hands and brake

 
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I meant that the time saving thing is pivoting the caliper out of the way and that way you don't have to remove the caliper. If you enjoy getting brake fluid all over your hands and car then to each his own. I've been a mechanic for 10 years and I've always learned that the cleaner job is the best job. Besides the less brake fluid on the car means that you don't have to worry about getting fluid on your paint by accident if you touch your fender with a hand with fluid on it. Brake fluid is the worst thing for paint, it will eat througha clear coat and base coat in seconds.

 
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Why would you need to break the bleed hose open? You can push the piston back with a c clamp and never have to spill an ounce of fluid. That's how I've always done it unless I'm flushing the system. I do that every 60 K miles or so.

 
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a C-clamp works well, but you can get a tool that will depress the piston it's about 5 bucks at whatever auto store and its a hell of alot better than cracking the bleeder, just remember to open the cap on your brake fluid reservoir...

 
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If you don't break the bleeder open you back flush fluid up through the Master Cylinder, thats a big No No. Plus it makes the piston go in much easier.