Rep Power: 368

Well even though it probably doesn't gain much power, I got myself an aftermarket header for the ex. (its one of those ebay ones... the thicker 45mm pippings one.... well when compared to the stock header, it is noticably thicker... the design and path is the same as the stock's though. they're just thicker pipes. (stock ex headers are 4 to 1...)

anyway after spending some time installing it... I realized I need to find a plug or some sort to plug up a hole for an o2 sensor on the header.

http://www.stockreco.com/Mvc-CIED_3_f.jpg

there's a pic of that o2 sensor hole I'm talking about.

I dont need that hole, so I simply just got a 3/8" bolt and screw it in...

well long story short, I got some problems after I start the engine... I can hear rattlings.. and I can smell exhaust leaks...

I torqued all the nuts and bolts down good, and everything is as tight as I can get it to be, and the gasket is there too...

but its still leaking and causing some rattling noise when I'm on low rpms... (it has that noise a car with a broken exhaust sounds like... )

I'm wondering anyone have any idea what the problem could be? My three guess are:

1. I didn't replace the stock gasket... on one side the gasket is somewhat rusty.. on the other side its all fine. I've driven 15,600 miles... and I dont know if I should get a new gasket...
2. The bolt I have to plug up the o2 sensor may not be tighten enough... I didn't have a standard size socket (I use metric) for my socket wrench so I tighten it the best I could with a monkey wrench.
3. One of the upper bolts that connects the header to the engine is somewhat loose... I think I over tighten it and now the bolt is kinda loose... you know how you can turn it and it gets tight and tighter and then suddenly it becomes loose? and the cycle repeats as you keep on turning the bolt? is that because the bolt is stripped? If so I may need to get a new bolt too...

anyway, those are my guesses... if anyone got some info that may help me, please tel me. thanks!

 
Rep Power: 0

Well first off when I saw ur pic I am not sure it's a 7thgen Header anymore. That O2 in the 2nd flange SHOULD NOT be there. You can plug it but thas not gonna be air tight to my knowledge, it should be welded jus like the pipes are. As for gaskets heres the deal:
The header upper gasket should maybe be replaced, the one touching the block behind the header openings. Yea ur gonna see rust, no biggie, its only a few bucks from Honda. Another thing you should think about. Theres a collecter gasket too. It's a ring about 4 inches in diameter. You don't hear about this because ppl on 7thgen usally buy DC sports and HP headers which DO NOT need this gasket because the ones they buy do not need them because they are built in to fit well when it connects to the down pipe. What this gasket does is an extra seal to between the upper header and down pipe. You mite think of gettin this gasket, its a small ring and it goes around on the bottom of the header, (the single big hole). So, jack up the car and take apart the header and try the gasket, it is only a few bucks from Honda.

IMO, toss the header, it looks like a cheap universal one and I dont see how bigger pipes are better? DC Sports pipes were about same size as stock jus a larger flange and CNC Ceramic Coated mendral bendings. I also advise aganst Stainless Steel only cuz they do rust in the winter when salt eats it up, they like to change colors. If getting the collecter gasket don't work I would not even bother wastin another min.

(By the way, the stock header system DOES NOT USE the collecter gasket. SO don't go and try and find one on the stock one cuz it's welded on there.

Good luck.
Lou-

 
Rep Power: 419

1. Always replace gaskets.
2. It's probably tight enough. Is the bolt the same thread size as the threading for the O2 sensor? If so, then it should be fine.
3. Let's hope that you didn't strip the threads on the block! Replacing a bolt is easy. Rethreading is not.

I don't know what else to say? Are you sure this header is meant for the EX? To me it looks like it's meant for the non-VTEC engines. Isn't it too short? How does it compare with the stock header? Are they the same length?

 
Rep Power: 0

that looks like an RSX header.....just my thoughts...were u able to put it on?

 
Rep Power: 368

well the header is for the 7th gen alright. because it really is a direct bolt on.. in fact, its the exactly same one as the stock's... just bigger pipping...

sleeper: you're right though, bigger pipping doesn't nesscary mean its any better.. I just got the header for fun I guess. thanks for the info on the gaskets though, I checked hondaautomotiveparts's diagram on the exhaust manifold and I only saw the header gasket, so I assumed thats all I needed... as for the collector's gasket, it isn't listed on hondaautomovtiveparts... how should I go about getting it from honda? Just tell themI need a collector's gasket? because I dont know if previous years have the same diameter pipping...

as for the header, I dont know why they have an o2 sensor there... especially there. and you're probably right, bolting in a bolt probably wont be air tight.. oh well...

I am going to check the connection between the upper header and the downpipe again, I think thats the most likely spot where all this trouble is coming from.

grey: I hope I didn't strip the the threads on the block too... but I might ahve... replacing that bolt isn't a big deal, but rethreading a head block isn't my idea of how to spend time...

anyhow thanks for the info sleeper, its very helpful. I'll spend those couple bucks on the gasket and give it another shot...

as for the header being universal, I dont think it is... not even sure of the brand, but judging from what the seller likes to sell, its probably an OBX header.

oh one last thing, strangely enough I see two types of gasket on hondaautomotiveparts.com I'm not sure which to get... but I'm guessing they both work... jsut different material....

 
Rep Power: 419

Hmm... I've seen that Ebay auction before and they claim that the header will work with all models of the 2001+ Honda Civic. I think they drilled out that hole up at the top so that the non-VTEC models don't have to extend their sensor wires. Maybe they even think that the non-VTEC models will be able to fit their cat in along with the header? Nah, not enough room.

OT: On a side note... I was thinking of using this header as a turbo header. What do you think CapYoda? Is there enough room underneath the header for a turbo?

 
Rep Power: 0

The bolt is probably becoming loose, easier to turn anyway, because you are about to twist the head of the bolt away from the threaded part of the bolt. I did that myself and have still not fixed it. My header didn't leak as a result.

Did you transfer the stock donut gasket over to the new header? I forgot this ring type thing and got the same noise you are talking about. YOu should be able to hear where the leak is ocurring if you listen with the hood up.

I don't think the gasket between the block and manifold is an issue.

 
Rep Power: 368

hmm.. yeah, I just checked at hondaautomotiveparts.com and I saw a gasket in the diagram for the pipe between the upper header and the cat...

NUMBER 14


is that the one you're talking about mbow? ummm... according to sleeper I wont be able to find that though... he said its welded on the stock upper header... I dont know. and during my installation I didn't notice any ring like that between the stock upper header and the pipe between it and the cat... maybe I missed it somehow.

grey: using this as a turbo header? umm.... since that pipe between the upper section and the cat is somewhat adjustable... you kind of could fit a turbo there... but it'll definitely be way down there somewhat... kind of off from its usual place.. even if its custom... it'll be interesting to see how you will loop the pippings around and all...

its probably best to get a custom manifold that is a bit shorter...

edit: oooooooooh well I just went downstair and found the stock header and there's a gasket on the bottom of it... I didnt notice it too well before and didn't realize I can detach it.. doh! stupid me. heh. this should be the problem so I'll check it out.

I took some pics from the digital camera before... to give a comparison... but then I got lazy so I just deleted the pictures...

if anyone wants pics just for kicks, give me a notice before I start taking things apart again in a hour or so...

 
Rep Power: 0

I think that header is for the DX/LX since those have the o2 sensor on the header and then the cat is is right below that. That's probably who it is made for. The ex has a sensor on the cat under the car and a sensor on the downpipe right below the header.

 
Rep Power: 368

well... no... according to their descrption in the auction, the header fits ex perfectly.. and will requied modification to fit dx/lx... like grey said though, they probably just have that there just to pass it off so that it fits dx/lx

you guys wouldn't believe what just happened... as I was trying to take the header off.. I snapped one of the bolt that connects the header to the downpipe.!!! guess I overtorqued it yesterday and it got very weak... check out the diagram.. its number 16... can you believe the bolt cost 6 bucks??

anyhow now I got a bolt stuck on the header.. and the only way I can remove it is drill it out... and er.. hopefully I dont mess up uthe threading cuz I'll need to rethread it.. and if that happens... lol.

can't believe I'm going through all these trouble...

I guess I can blame it on the crappy header... but I'm the idiot that overtorque everything I see...

 
Rep Power: 419

Do you have a torque wrench? [IMG]i/expressions/face-icon-small-confused.gif[/IMG]

 
Rep Power: 0

I was pretty sure it was that darn donut ring. I forgot it as well.

Anyhow, you are going to need an extraction kit. You can get the kind that look like screw drivers or the drill bit type. They both are made of very hard metal and reverse threaded. So, as you screw the extractor into the bolt, left tightens instead of right, it should start to turn the bolt and it should come out. It may be to tight for the screw driver type extactor.

The other kind look like little drill bits. Put the proper size in the drill and get the drill up to speed. Then, jam it into the bolt very quickly. If all goes well, the bolt will back right out.

Another option:

If enough of the bolt is sticking out, you can take a rotary tool with a cutting wheel and grind a channel in it for a flathead screwdriver.

Also, I don't think the holes in the downpipe are threaded. Just where they go into the header. So, if you can get the other bolt out the downpipe should fall down leaving that stud exposed. then, you could use the rotary tool or a pair of pliers to get that sucker out.

 
Rep Power: 0

Sleeper doesn't know what he is talking about. The DC and HP header are not made so well that they don't need that donut gasket. They both use it. YOu have to watch out for people that act like they know what they're talking about but indeed don't. [IMG]i/expressions/face-icon-small-disgusted.gif[/IMG]

I was just thinking about the bolts that attach the manifold to the downpipe. They extend out past the nuts on the header by a good bit and if you snapped yours, the springs must be completely compressed and the bolts must be coming out of it by a pretty good bit. You could probably grind a flat in the end with a rotary tool and use a flat-head screw driver to get it out that way.

 
Rep Power: 368

thanks for the advice...

but I already drilled the bolt out like half way.. I might as well keep on drilling...

the bolt I need is not in stock in my local dealer... so I ordered from hondaautomotiveparts.com and damn. heh. can't believe I wont be able to use my car for maybe a week just cuz I snap a bolt...

I'm gonna try and go to the local hardware/auto stores to find a bolt thats similar to it...

grey: I do have a torque wrench but I really thought that it wasn't tight enough thats why it was leaking.. so I keep on going and going.. heh.

yes I'm stupid.

 
Rep Power: 419

Yeah, over-torqueing is a nono. Oh well, live and learn...

 
Rep Power: 368

yup. live and learn.

so anyway even though no one asked for it, I took some pics anyway cuz I had to take the header out again anyway.

here is a comparison shot between the stock and the obx or whatever the heck it is. between them you can see that gasket that I forgot to transfer over... which lead to other problems...

the header has already been burned in a bit... it'll start to change color soon I guess. not a big deal though.

here is the bottom of the stock header:


here is the bottom of the cheapy header:


top of stock:


top of cheapy:


bolt that I broke cuz went torque happy on it.... took awhile to get it outta the header, had to drill a bit, and use my good o vise grip and remove it...

its not in stock at my local dealer, so I ordered online... gonna take awhile... I'm going to try and find a temporary replacement at Pepboys or something. a just as long bolt with a washer and same threading should work just fine..
my local dealer wants 10 bucks for that sucker! it cost 6 something online, and I got myself two header gasket while I was at it...

here's the funny thing, while I forgot to transfer over the donut ring gasket, I was leaking out exhaust.. and I think I actually got a performance increase from that. I guess I could have just run open header for fun but I dont like loud cars venting out pollution...

anyway. thats that I guess.

 
Rep Power: 0

AIf its an OBX its $hit get your money back i recently got ripped off with their turbo manifold that didnt even fit!!!
Ziggy is the name of the 7thgen member i think he works for OBX he claims he doesnt but i have a gut feeling.
The refused to give me a refund! and told me i shouldve knew what i was buying wich is why i asked him before i bought and he lied to me

 
Rep Power: 0

^^^ Hey tard that was two years ago stop trolling for any obx threads.