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One way to look at it is:

If you have a 100 pound girlfriend or maybe a tiny boyfriend.... the 4 HP gain will give you back the performance you had before she/he started riding with you (remember when you were were cruising all alone - really, do the math). Now if he/she weighs 300 LBS... well.... you'll still be really slow and may need to get some speed stickers and a wing to get it back.

Seriously though, look at graphs of these things... the gain isn't over your whole RPM range... it's a bump around 5500 RPM over stock and no gain from idle up to close to that region.

 
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lol. funny thread.

I've long since been posting about how stock is better. but whatever.

and the guy with the deal on the 4 hp being felt? lol. 5hp to 9 hp in a lawn mower is NOT a small change.
thats a 35% percent increase in power...

115hp to 120? that's a 5% increase in power...

dont compare a 100 or whatever lbs lawn mower to a 2,000+ lb car.

like he said, you guys should all be techs... heh.

its been said many times over... IF its so easy to increase power with such cheap amount of money (a $150 bolt on), then these things would come stock from the factory.

but no, these engineers aren't stupid. they realized that the increase near redline isn't worth scrubbing out all the lowerband power...

I bought my InJen SRI just for fun, it sounds cool, but I know my car wasn't faster at all. and without driving 6 months, I can tell right away that most of the low end torque went out of the window. (especially when I'm carrying passenger)

read that thread with the "Interesting article on 1st 7th gen oil change or whatever" and read the article:
http://www.roadandtrack.com/technica...?articleid=180

like the writer said, with today's definite more efficient built engine, a simple cheap way to increase hp isn't really around. (cept for nitrous, which is pretty cheap compare to a full bolt on of I/H/E)

now wake up. plenty of people have realized it. stop thinking these intakes make that much of a difference.

I find it VERY hard to believe that its making 4 more hp, and if it does, its certainly not across the powerband.

if you still think you can feel 4 hp. fine. but I sure as heck dont feel the 5or so extra whp when vtec hits. (not in this car anyway)

 
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I don't understand why everyone is arguing about the increase/decrease in power that a CAI or SRI gives us. The engine wasn't made to accept a cheap bolt-on mod and instantaneously blast you down the street. The engine was made to be economical and save you money on gas. Yeah, sure any engine has potential provided you have a sh#@ load of money to spend. Money = Performance.

I have an SRI on my car. Maybe I gained a couple of horsepower, maybe a lost a few. I'm not sure. However, I do know it sounds better, plus it looks really sweet when you pop the hood and see it sitting there.

I wouldn't fuss too much about your intake or other bolt-on mods until your running some type of forced induction. That's when you will notice a difference in power. Although, unless you just refuse to drive anything other than a civic, you may as well put that money towards a faster car.

 
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Think of it this way... A 5hp gain in a lawnmower that has 10hp to begin with is a gain of 50%. A 5hp gain in a car that has 100hp to begin with is only a 5% gain. You're much more able to feel a 50% gain vs. a 5% gain.

 
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Your assumptions are a little off. One reason is for low end torque, but another equally important reason is NOISE! How many people that buy civics or almost any car want a loud free-flowing intake in their ear? That's why you can get 10-15hp on some cars that have very restrictive intakes. Take the current accord v6 for example. Everything is squeezed and the engine strangled, all for the sake of keeping things quiet.

 
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Just out of curiosity, when you put the stock airbox back on did you install the resonator too?

He's right about the stock airbox performing better though. After having an intake on my '99 for about a year I took it off and went back to stock, it performed noticeably better!

 
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I kept the resonator off, no point in that thing at all except to keep quite and restrict air flow more. I'm thinking of devising a ghetto CAI with the stock airbox, buy running some tubing from the airbox inlet down to the bottom of the engine bay.

 
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The stock air box probably does perform better in everyday driving. Why? Because we spend most of our time below 4k rpm and the restriction of the stock air box helps aid torque production. However, this restriction impedes hp and torque production in the upper rpms.

Those of us who have bolt-ons know what happens to low end torque and power. But we also know how much more the engine screams in the upper rpms over stock. When you floor it, race, spirited driving, what have you, you want that power in the upper rpms because that is where the tack is going to stay.

A car with bolt-ons is definately going to be a hair or 2 quicker than the one without, but the stock car will feel much more spritely in typical city driving.

Also, I don't know if any of you noticed but the stock intake makes the sound that an after-market intake does. It's just at a much lower level. What does this tell you? It tells you that the oe setup was never that restrictive to begin with.

 
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Mbow- agreed. I liek the sound of the sotck intake, without resonator, better thatn the SRI sound! It's deeper with less motor noise.

 
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its not an assumption, I wasn't really talking about civics, I shoulda been clear. I was being more general, and since we're talking about performance, I'm talking about performance cars.

but yeah, the noise is obviously a factor too. the funny thing is, thats a subjective part too.... I feel bad for the honda guys, they gotta keep the noise level down, but not so low that it sounds like the car isn't alive, and they gotta have the tones just right so it doesn't sound like the engine is break apart..

thats one thing i gotta give props to Honda though, their inline 4s are usually pretty sweet sounding stock. (compare to other manufacture's 4 bangers.

but yeah, hopefully this thread enlighten some people on the aspect of intake, and other bolt ons..

informative threads are good

edit: on the note of accords, yeah, the current generation's v6 are so restrictive, I've seen quite a good number of gains 10-20+ hp with I/H/E or more... these are dynos done by owners too...

 
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Hey DarkCivic read what you said...and replied to that other dude's comment with "it's printed on the gas cap" in YOUR defense because you knew that could cause a check engine light. Also you people need to realize that mod's such as intake change your powerband...you will lose some power in the lower RPM (HP and Torque), but once you get above 4k RPM or so you will most likely have a small increase in power. So when you say "yeah I gained/lost x HP/Torque"....tell us where in the powerband that gain/loss occured.

 
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Phillipp, cool man, no worries. I missunderstood. Weren't some peeps claiming that the CAI would increase torque/hp UNDER 4000rpms, whereas the SRI was more for over 4000rpm's? So we'd technically need to know @ what rpm the power gain/loss is at with both the SRI and CAI...

 
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so what have we learned from this thread??

1. SRI = waste of cash...but good for sound and looks
2. CAI = only thing worth getting in terms of an intake....looks better and sounds good as well
3. Stock = best thing performance wise cuz Honda has tuned these cars to a tee right out of the factory
4. if you have auto an intake is really gunna hurt ya, so don't get one unless it's for show...that's why AEM didn't design a cold air one for autos


as for me, I have had an AEM CAI on my last ride and fell in love with the sound and looks...that is why I have one on order right now...plus if I want to daydream about it adding some extra HP, good then, cuz it makes it that more exciting to pull up beside someone and see if they wanna go...

 
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okay, speaking of MODS involving AIR going into the engine, Anyone use K&N's FIPK??? because its "SUPPOSED" to add from 16-19 hp and 20 torque. at least thats what the website said. Personally, K&N is probably the only brand i would fully trust with anyhitng having to do about AIR in my car.

 
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Machina- your pretty much right.

Spitakhye- Noob- the filters on the ends of intakes are made by K&N (Injen)or an equivilent for the others.

 
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3. Nope

The stock air box is better for low end power but not top end. Intakes are better for top-end power but hurt low end power. I/H/E together and by themselves will move your power band up further into the rpms. You may loose a few hp down low with an intake but gain 5 up high. Not good for city driving but nice when you race. Once you are out of first and flooring it through ever gear, you never drop below 4k again. It just a matter of preference if you ask me. I'll give a little power on the low end because I can just drop down a gear and get right into the mid-high rpms.

Anyhow, we really need a member to get a stock vic dynoed and then do it again with a cai installed. Then, we can look at the gains or losses, but more importantly, see where the gains and losses take place across the rpm range.

 
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I was just referring to off the line...that's what people where talking about...there is no doubt the high end gets a tiny boost, but we need to worry about the starting line cuz by the time we get to the high end if we're not in the lead we'll never catch up...[IMG]i/expressions/laugh2.gif[/IMG]

I can keep up with my friends '00 SiR until 3rd, then he hauls a$$ on me...once I get the AEM CAI I won't even be able to do that...but I'll sound good trying...

 
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Machina:

You have a 5-speed or an auto?

 
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click my link bro...

5 speed...pourqoui??

 
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MBOW i wanted to comment on your posts, they were very informative, i have a quick question, how much does it run to get a car dynoed, i am fixing to get my injen cai and want to get it dynoed before and after,

 
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expect 1-2 hp gain max...intakes don't do much for us...too bad...

 
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I have a 2001 LX:

Stock: It ran 99-100HP at the wheels.
AEM CAI: It ran about 104HP at the wheels with a widening of the powerband around 4000rpm and up.
Magnaflow Catback: Very little, around 1-2HP. I run just above 105HP at the wheels with both of the mods.

So, for about $1000, I have a 5-6HP gain. Not bad but it's not like the B-series motors where each mod gave you a 5HP gain. Oh well, every little bit counts and works better with each other. Now, if I were to add the UR pulleys and a Kamikaze header, I could expect another 10HP(or more) at the wheels. I think the UR pulleys would give about a 5-6HP gain but I don't know until I dyno it. Also, I don't know what to expect from the header, it does remove the cat and it is a 4-2-1 design. I would say around 5-8HP. Only the dyno knows for sure though.

 
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How do you get $1000 for an intake and exhaust? The header will give ya a couple more. Anyhow, that's awesome how you dynoed the car before and after. Very nice!

 
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I live in Canada, an exhaust costed me $480 and the CAI was $369. Throw taxes into the equation and it's close to $1K.

Thanks Mbow, I didn't go into this blindly. I also know how quick it is. Before all my work, my car did 0-60mph in 10.4 seconds. Afterwards, it's 8.43 seconds. Of course, thats not consistent runs, just an average with the extremes thrown out. It's not bad, I think with a header and pulleys, I should be close to breaking the 8 second mark. I haven't measured my 0-60 time with my short shifter and it being lowered. I doubt it would make a difference.

 
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So did anyone try to take off there intake and see if the stock was faster? BAK- I though you were going to try? Anyone?

 
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stock's faster. I need the low end torque to get the car going fast... I know when you race, you're in the higher rpm ranges.. but from a dead stop.. thats another story. from a roll though, I guess with an aftermarket intake, its faster.

I couldn't even do a decent launch when I had my InJen SRI...

not that I race, but I just jump the gun at the light a lot cuz I gotta get to places. heh.

 
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Hey Dark.... I didn't get a chance to switch out the intake this weekend. I've been playing with my new toy. It's also a Honda, but it's a VTX !!! And also the FASTEST Honda on this site. [IMG]i/expressions/face-icon-small-smile.gif[/IMG] [IMG]i/expressions/face-icon-small-smile.gif[/IMG] I'll try and swap it out tomorrow.



BAK

 
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after using an intake for 6 months the filter gets dirty and thats where the HP is lost... the filter needs either to be replaced or cleaned and recharged(k&n makes a filter recharger kit but i don't really know how that works)... so the only way to get accurate results of HP gained/lost from fitlers is if you compare a brand new stock filter to a brand new intake filter... when someone buys an intake, they always feel a gain from stock to aftermarket intake because the stock filter has already been used and is a little dirty, thus restricting airflow. this is why when one installs an aftermarket intake, the dirtier the stock filter, the more power the car will gain after the bolt-on, and that is because the aftermarket intake come with a brand new filter.... so my guess is, the intake filter must have been really dirty from 6 months use and your stock filter is cleaner letting more air into the engine...

 
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who gives 2 sh.its...the sound is worth the money...no??...

p.s. don't mind me, I had to much to drink tonight and shouldn't be alllowed to post...cheers y'all...[IMG]i/expressions/beer_yum.gif[/IMG]

 
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Nice bike BAK! Let me know your results.

Machina you drunken fool! Lol! I like the sound of the stock air box with the resonator removed better!