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there has been an interest for this recently here, so i figured I'd write something so that we all could point somewhere anytime someone else has a question about this.


Step 1: check your amp! it may have speaker level inputs, which means you can clip your rear (or front) speaker outputs, and use those as inputs. definitely makes things easy! Earthquake amps have this:



as you can see, with the boot pulled back, there are lengths of 16 gauge wire as inputs, instead of RCA's. If your amp does not have this, dont worry! you can get a line output converter, something that looks like this:



they come in a variety of flavors, including 4 output, and usually cost between $20 and $50, you can get them at radio shack, or at most automotive stores like Napa, or Kragen.

This will take care of your signal (check the amp installation DIY for what to do with the signal, whether its line level or speaker level)


Step 2: Your amp now needs power! This is easy enough to write, as you can check that amp install DIY again for this, follow the directions just like that! just one thing, Be sure not to run your signal wires WITH the power wire, its best to have them seperated as FAR as possible away from each other! this is to help prevent alternator whine, which is deadly to all systems!

When you wire the inline fuse, make sure its as close to the battery as you can possibly make it, you want to make sure that IF there is a short, the fuse will be there to blow!

you can get spade or O-terminals anywhere, and I would higly reccommend purchasing yourself a pair of them if your amp kit did not come with them, they really make the wireing look much cleaner.

To determine what size power wire you need, you can use a chart like this:



Now, keep in mind that this is just a guide, you dont have to follow it exactly, I have run 40 amps through a 2 foot length of 16 gauge, no problems! but bigger is always better, especially if you plan on upgrading.....

scala sells an amp kit online for $25, its perfect for a single amp, even in multiple amp installs all you will need more is a D-block.

When you ground your amp, be SURE you grind off all the dirt and crud off your point, you want the BEST possible ground connection you can have. This will also help to cut down on system noise.

Step 3: your amp has power and a signal, now all you have to do is figure out a remote, and your finished. Thankfully, Honda made it REDICULOUSLY easy to yank our decks, so once you got that out (again, there are other DIY's for that, I'll leave it alone) then you will want to find the ACC wire. You will know you have found it, because when the car is on, the amp will turn on if you have that wire hooked to the remote on the amp. I would use a T-tap or a scotchlock (scotchlocks are notorius for coming undone, but i have never personally had this problem) you can get them at radio shack for a dollar:



its cause of these I argued with Nasty_Totoro for 2 weeks [IMG]i/expressions/laugh2.gif[/IMG] but if he is right afterall, you should avoid them [IMG]i/expressions/face-icon-small-wink.gif[/IMG]

other option is to cut and solder, i wouldnt do that tho

so you wire your amp remote wire to this, and put in a switch in there, too, you dont want your amp on ALWAYS when the car is on, just when both the car and switch are on [IMG]i/expressions/face-icon-small-wink.gif[/IMG]


So there you have it! now you got your own Bass Switch [IMG]i/expressions/face-icon-small-wink.gif[/IMG] you can flip anytime you wanna add a little thimp to your stock sounds, or perhaps to get yoru stage going as best it can [IMG]i/expressions/face-icon-small-smile.gif[/IMG] you gtuys see somethin gwrong up in here, lemme know, so i can edit it, but i think i got everything.

 
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I did the same setup, works good with the wire clamps =)