Rep Power: 221

So i've been bitching about it for a while now but i finally finished it. I traded a friend of mine an old eBay header i had laying around for the airbox from his CRV. I've been running open TB for a while now and im done doing it, i didn't want to get a cheapo eBay intake either cuz they look like ****. I told myself i'd either get a factory box and mod it, a comptech iceman or the PJDM whale ***** in carbon fiber. Since i don't have money for the second two i opted for the first option until i can afford one of the others.

This is for an B16A/EJ8

Boxed filters make more torque then open cones, that's pretty common knowledge by know i would think. Boxes pressurize the air for the intake bla bla bla. The only problem with the stock air box is the huge gap between the filter and the intake tube. This gap was intended to resonate the intake sound and make it quiet. i don't care much about quiet, infact i love hearing engine music. Exhaust not so much much intake sound (especially vtec) hell yes. ANYWAYS, this gap created a loss in intake pressure velocity suction etc. so the question was how to cover this gap. I could have cut the box open and all this other stuff, i've seen some pretty mutilated boxes. And these boxes are not cheap they go for about 75 used all day. After a month or so of planning and drawing i finally came up with somthing. I got pictures of it and I will post them tonight. I've been riding with this box set up for about a week know and I love it. So much more torque through the middle, not as much power up top but i'm willing to sacrifice some up top hp for some midrange trq. There is much more throttle response in all gears but especially in 4th and 5th, the engine tone is sportier, not just an obnoxious drone. Vtec is muffled slightly but still discernable. I have the air drawing in from behind the bumper as you'll see in the pictures that I'll post tonight. Hopefully this post will be of some help to other people thinking about doing something similar and maybe someone else will think of something I didn't and be of benefit to everyone.

 
Rep Power: 221

pictures

This is the stock airbox

the resonator gap


Used a rubber coupling 2" from lowes (about $3)

You have to finess the soupling into the air box, just enough to cover the gap






Now the problem was that some of the coupling was obstructing the air passeges. So the only option was to get my handy dandy crap and decker rotary tool and trim to fit

It always a good thing to wear eye protection as demonstrated by my assistant

Its always a good thing to have a loyal companion lend a hand

Make a cut in the coupler like so


If done properly, the finished product should look something like this


Then I went to pep boys and bought two flex hoses (about 25 each with couplers and t brackets) and went from the throttle body to the box with the first hose. The problem I ran into initially with intake set ups i have tried in the passed is, that I am running a 70mm TB (almost 3") and most intakes are 2.5". This flex hose was about 3" so it was perfect for my set up.

Then, utilizing the original factory coupler in the bottom of the box, I fed in the second hose. This took.... A LOT.... of patience and fenaggling (and lots of beer and cigarettes for patience) but once it went it, the rest was cake.

With the second hose in place, i routed it under the frame rail and out to the front.




When finished, it should look like this



The only thing I have left to do is have aluminum pipes bent and put instead of the plastic flex pipe for a smoother flow. I could have had the hose run into the holes outside of the fog lights for a ram air affect but it rains too often in gainesville and thought it was too big of a risk. Instead I ran the opening of the hose behind the bumper so it can draw cool air from the outside while staying away from puddles and deep water. It sounds mean at WOT still makes a slight wistle like a CAI and makes much more torque than my conical filter did. The box had a K&N in it too when i got it so bonus points there. Overall the project cost me slightly over 50 and some time but all in all I am very pleased with it and would definately recommend this to anyone else thinking about doing something similar. I tried using dryer hose before but the intake air punched holes in it and ended up shredding it. I thought about using a smaller diameter flex hose and running it through the entire intake body. I'm curious to see how other people have tried this if at all or if anyone maybe has a different angle on how I did it and has a better idea of what to use to plug the gap. Like I said, the one who benefits in the long run is the one looking for answers and ideas and finds it here.

 
Rep Power: 255

pictures arent loading for me

 
Rep Power: 234

pictures arent workin.....fix fix i wanna see this

 
Rep Power: 255

all that work up and the dam pictures don't work come on i wanna see pics !!!!!

 
Rep Power: 0

boo, I wanna see this DIY.

 
Rep Power: 221

Let's try and get these pictures working

This is the stock airbox

the resonator gap


Used a rubber coupling 2" from lowes (about $3)

You have to finess the soupling into the air box, just enough to cover the gap






Now the problem was that some of the coupling was obstructing the air passeges. So the only option was to get my handy dandy crap and decker rotary tool and trim to fit

It always a good thing to wear eye protection as demonstrated by my assistant

Its always a good thing to have a loyal companion lend a hand

Make a cut in the coupler like so


If done properly, the finished product should look something like this

Then I went to pep boys and bought two flex hoses (about 25 each with couplers and t brackets) and went from the throttle body to the box with the first hose. The problem I ran into initially with intake set ups i have tried in the passed is, that I am running a 70mm TB (almost 3") and most intakes are 2.5". This flex hose was about 3" so it was perfect for my set up.

Then, utilizing the original factory coupler in the bottom of the box, I fed in the second hose. This took.... A LOT.... of patience and fenaggling (and lots of beer and cigarettes for patience) but once it went it, the rest was cake.

With the second hose in place, i routed it under the frame rail and out to the front.



When finished, it should look like this


The nice thing about this set up is I can put it behind the fog light in the winter when it doesn't rain, and put it up into the engine like the oem intake in the summer when it pours all the time.

The only thing I have left to do is have aluminum pipes bent and put instead of the plastic flex pipe for a smoother flow. I could have had the hose run into the holes outside of the fog lights for a ram air affect but it rains too often in gainesville and thought it was too big of a risk. Instead I ran the opening of the hose behind the bumper so it can draw cool air from the outside while staying away from puddles and deep water. It sounds mean at WOT still makes a slight wistle like a CAI and makes much more torque than my conical filter did. The box had a K&N in it too when i got it so bonus points there. Overall the project cost me slightly over 50 and some time but all in all I am very pleased with it and would definately recommend this to anyone else thinking about doing something similar. I tried using dryer hose before but the intake air punched holes in it and ended up shredding it. I thought about using a smaller diameter flex hose and running it through the entire intake body. I'm curious to see how other people have tried this if at all or if anyone maybe has a different angle on how I did it and has a better idea of what to use to plug the gap. Like I said, the one who benefits in the long run is the one looking for answers and ideas and finds it here.

 
Rep Power: 811

looks really good, weapon-r can custom make an aluminum pipe tho that will look much nicer than the flex tube.

 
Rep Power: 221

There is a Midas next door to where I work and they may be able to do something for me. I'm really apprehensive though about using aluminum piping because of the heat it's going to absorb kinda defeats the purpose of a CAI don't you think? I drove with this thing in the pouring rain and the inside of the tube was totally dry after an hour of driving in torrential down-pour so I'm not worried about hydrolock. Im not saying im going to go off roading and puddle diving but you get what I'm saying. I love this set up tho man, all the benefits of a CAI without the hydrolock plus more trq. You know what else I can do tho? There is a guy up here that molds his own carbon fiber, I can have a pipe made at midas and then take it to him and have him make a mold. That would be sick.

 
Rep Power: 811

or get the metal pipe powdercoated.

 
Rep Power: 811

or get the metal pipe powdercoated.

 
Rep Power: 387

I read a while back about using plastic for intakes was a bad idea.. PVC specifically. The reason was because when the plastic heats up, it breaks down, and lets off toxic fumes or whateverthef. That was the just of it anyways.

 
Rep Power: 811

yeah thats true of most cheaper plastics. there are some very hi quality plastics that can resist heat tho, our wire cover for instance.

 
Rep Power: 221

this might be one of those im not sure. It's a pipe made by a company called venom, they make K&N knock off products. Its a hose specifically for intakes so i dunno. I never planned on having this as a permanent thing either. I just wanted to see if this could be done. And it can be, so now i can punch out the details.

 
Rep Power: 221

well i purposefuly run my car rich to pollute the ozone and run over squirrels every day and have no cat, litter and drive on sidewalks.... im not worried about letting off some fumes haha

 
Rep Power: 312

I think he ment hose toxins are bad for the engine haha...

 
Rep Power: 221

when i finish my exhaust retrofit ill post some audio clips.