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yooo well im about to assemble my new block this weekend and i was wondering if there are any pointers you engine builders could enlighten me with .

im confused on where to apply assembly lube when i put the pistons in and on the bearing surfaces. do i put the lube on the back side of the bearing or on the part where the bearing contacts with the journal? also is it necessary for me to get engine break in oil? because everything i am putting in the block is pretty much new. last question. how do i pre-lubricate [prime?] my oiling system before the initial startup of the car so that everything is lubed before i start the car? thanks for any help. will rep you if i can

 
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where the bearing contacts the journal

 
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change your thread title to ask for boiler!

 
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^^ done. lol. good idea. bumppp for any help!

 
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hahahahaha nice! i really dunno much about this, but depending on what your building this motor for, maybe youd wanna use synthetic from the start, instead of break in then conventional?

 
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1. - Get a Honda Service Manual (this will save your life!)
2. - Lube is your friend, lube everything that moves ( This is you priming your engine for cold start )
3. - Just use regular motor oil....wait at least until 10-15k before synthetic...allow the engine to break in alittle before you make it super slick
4. - There are alot of debates on how an engine should be broke in....some say build it, dyno it, & beat it up....some say baby it for at least 3-5k....some say just drive it normal....I would drive it normal until 3k & then beat it up.....let the parts get familiar first!

****you can prime you're oil system by turning the oil pump manually (timing belt drives oil pump) I don't know if you will be able to turn it fast enough, however. Old V8 guys use an adaptor & power drill to prime alot of old v8's***

 
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I dont have time to read through this because I have to run, but this should help you out.
http://www.team-integra.net/sections...ArticleID=1220

 
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I wrote a huge thread, search for it.
Assembly lube goes on the surfaces that contact the crank, not the back side against the block. Same for rod bearings.... the side that contacts the crank.

Get a honda service manual, follow all the torque orders.

Break the motor in on conventional oil. Prime the oil system by pulling the PGM EFI fuse under the hood then crank the car a couple times for a couple seconds. The idiot light on the dash will go off when its got pressure, but if you used good assembly lube, that will keep you good for the 2 seconds until the motor pressurizes itself fully. Leave the radiator open, you'll have to fill it as you go, but make sure its as full as possible before you start it. After 15 minutes, do an oil change. Then you can drive the car.
All this is in my huge thread, its in the 7th gen FI section.

 
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thanks you everyone for your help! just what i needed very nice link triz thanks.. doesnt seem that difficult ... i had a few more questions though.

should i put the ARP assembly lube on the rod bolts? [not the threaded part] because i pushed them ARP rod bolts in already without the lube.

would my autozone torque wrench do fine for torquing everything down? maybe its not accurate enough or what not?

thanks for all the help guys.

 
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For the lazy, here is a quick link to the thread boiler is talking about:
https://www.civicforums.com/forums/7...000-miles.html

 
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put the arp assembly lube on the threads it will give you a better more accurate torque reading lubricate everything and whatever you do don't use synthetic oil with the new motor until it gets really broken in. Synthetic does not contain bits of minerals that help break-in the motor that you would find in regular motor oil. all the motors that use synthetic straight off the show room floor are pre broken in at the factory.

 
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^^werd. thanks man. i would rep but i cant

 
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I wouldn't use assembly "lube" on the bearings at all. The Honda service manual recommends coating them with clean engine oil and that's exactly what I did.

 
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any word on the ok for using an autozone torque wrench? maybe the torque readings are off?

alright thanks andy! +1 please rep back!

 
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I'd use a craftsman....

 
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Its definately worth buying a craftsman, the no name wrenches may not be calibrated properly and are cheaply made. Before assembling anything make sure you use an air gun to blow everything out, dont want any metal shaving or other misc. things that creap into the block. Make sure that you apply some oil to the cylinder walls before installing the pistons, put some oil on the piston pins when they are in, also oil your oil pump and rear main seals.

 
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O ya as far as assembly lube, I agree with Andy conventional motor oil is fine.

 
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^^ thanks speedfreak +1 rep for youuu! rep back please

SORRY. i think this is the last question lol. well i just got back my motor and head from the machine shop.. there is rust in the cylinder walls now. how do i come onto cleaning them? i tried wd40 and i ran out of brake cleaner. brake cleaner kills rust i think yah?