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anyone have a DIY on how to do this?

 
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they should have come with directions. waste of money btw

 
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they were free from a friend. why u say waste of money?

 
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well if u got them for free...then its not a waste of money. its just whatever. you wont notice a difference in pretty much anything...it just looks nice under the hood. on some occasions they are known to mess up some of the accessory parts in the motor. are u sure they are for ur motor? since they were given to u by a friend u should make sure wat app they are for or else ur really wasting ur time..

 
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Its just pulleys man. Hold them still, unscrew nut, remove old pulley, put new one on, hold it still, tighten nut, drink beer. I will get some because they come in blue and I like blue.

 
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yeah, only put the power steering on, dont bother with the alternator

 
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I looked last night but couldnt find the install directions anywhere, not even AEM's site. It was late and I gave up for sleep.

Hope ya find them if the directions that were given here werent good enough. they are pretty simple. Getting the belts back over them is what you'll probably struggle the most with.

 
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goodbye alternator if you change its pulley

 
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Sigh Gearbox, always bashing the pulleys. I've had Unorthodox pulleys installed since 07/2004 and i have had ZERO problems with my engine, accessories, or alternator.

 
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thats the only pulley ive herd have problems associated with it...that and the crank pulley. maybe its an AEM thing..but those things do look nice.

 
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Maybe check in the DIY section:
https://www.civicforums.com/forums/1...t-install.html

 
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its not an aem thing. if you force an already weak alternator to work non-stop just to supply power to keep the battery from dying, then eventually its gonna fry.

 
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Alright Gearbox, lets get scientific here. I know you don't have under-drive pulleys, so please measure the diameter of your alternator pulley for me.

I just measured my under-drive pulley at 2.75", yours should be smaller.

I remember the stock crank pulley being at 6". If you wish to confirm this please to. The unorthodox crank pulley is the same diameter as stock, it just weighs less.

At a ratio of 6:2.75 (Engine:Alternator) the alternator will always spin 2.1818x faster than the engine. My engine idles at 750 rpm, thus my alternator would spin at 1636.36 rpm.

The high-output alternator from 4alterstart.com requires 1600 rpm to run at full capacity. So i suspect that the stock alternator needs about the same or less to run at full capacity.

[Don't make the mistake of thinking that higher revs (above 1600) will allow the alternator to put out more power. Once at max rating the alternator will limit itself to that. If you did get more power at higher RPM i would expect the electronics in the car to burn out from too much power.]

So, why would our stock alternator have problems in this situation? Why would it fry when running at full capacity?

Only reason for an alternator to fry when running at full potential, is when the current draw of the electronics within your car goes above what the alternator can do for a sustained period of time (usually about a minute).

P.S. Please stop bashing something you have no experience with.

* My measurements are with unorthodox pulleys. AEM's pulleys may be different.

 
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no experience, okay. my alternator blew up two months after using the aem pulley. i know at least 10 people with hondas that had bearing failure or oil pump problems from using an aftermarket crank pulley more than 20k miles. those types of problems are unheard of on a stock civic. why? because the stock pulley has a rubber damper built into it to soften vibrations on the crank. dont believe it? go find your stock pulley and take a look. im betting your special aftermarket pulley does not have it. maybe you wont have problems just yet, but give it some time. and the best shop in town with a mechanic thats been in the business for 25+yrs told me it was the alternator pulley that caused the damage. Did you forget something called the ELD? electronic load detector- it tells the alternator to shut off whenever there is not a high demand for power, exactly for the reason of conserving alternator life. so what happens when you underdrive the alternator and put out less power, hmm the ELD keeps the alt running non stop and boom. i had a volt meter at the time too and can confirm this myself. running the underdrive pulley, voltage NEVER dropped below 14v. using the stock pulley, it would drop out to 12v all the time during driving, unless i did something to increase demand like turn the a/c on. dont believe it? well voltmeters are cheap, go buy one and let me know what you think. there is obviously no convincing you, since you have all these pulleys and you have to defend them to make yourself feel good about having them. dont you think that if a lighter crank pulley or accessory pulleys actually gave a substantial gain and provided no negative effects, that all oem cars would start designing them to raise their hp ratings?

and dont make the mistake of comparing a stock 70amp alternator to a hi power version. they are completely different.

 
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wow...... ::claps::

 
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Changed my mind.

 
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Hey, isn't that one of my pics. LOL Well if I haven't used it yet I have thought about it several times.


I am going to agree with Gearbox on this one. I had a 95 Accord LX it ran perfectly. I put the AEM pulleys on it, yes in blue foos, and it ran fine for about 9 months. Then the Alternator went out so I replaced it, I thought that it was just an old car. Well the new one went out after about 6 months. I got my money back from the parts house and purchased a high output from STINGER. It lasted about a year. I warrantied it and sold the car. Could it have been merely coincidence that I had all these alternator problems. SURE, but that would be one hell of a coincidence.

Here is my new PWNED pic for this one.

 
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^ alpha you're my hero, lmfao.

yo tuner, seems like you finally found your way to this forum

 
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Don't blame it on the blue Alpha. Hondas are color blind. Its all about the



Don't bother me with minor details like alternators blowing and catastrophic engine failure. As long as it looks good, I'm happy.

 
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Believe me I got "BLING!"

 
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the only reason i kept the ps pulley on was looks. a nice silver pulley looks better than rusty gold color lol. and the way our system works, it would not be harmed at all by underdriving. it actually doesnt even affect steering at all which i was kinda hoping it would make it a bit harder to turn the wheel. right now its way too loose.

 
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"Beginning with the 1990 model year, certain Hondas were equipped with an Electronic Load Detention (ELD) module which was designed to improve fuel economy by almost shutting off the alternator during light throttle and idle. If the module fails, the ECM loses a sensor and the vehicle may experience stalling, rough idle, or low / no alternator output. Fault code 20 will be set."
Source - http://www.oeplus.com/imports.htm

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"The ELD sensor tells the ECU the electrical load being imposed by the car’s main circuits (with a few exceptions). It’s like an ammeter, mounted in the Under-Hood Fuse and Relay Box (see illustration), measuring the total current through the fuse box. The ECU compares the electrical load signal with the FR (Charging Rate) signal from the alternator and uses that information to set the idle speed and turn the alternator on and off."
"By turning off the alternator, the ECU reduces the mechanical load on the engine, increasing power and conserving fuel."
Source - http://pw1.netcom.com/~gentile/Vigor/Timely1201.htm

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"Since new I noticed the dash and head lights flicker every time the alternator comes on line and goes off line. I Contacted Honda and their response...get ready or this one...is that it is a fuel saving feature designed into the charging system produced by a component in the fuse box called a E.L.D., which regulates when to engage or disengage the alternator for fuel economy."

Source - http://www.dealtime.com/

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So, based on the first clipping, Hondas before 1990 had no ELD. No ELD means the alternator ran 100% of the time. According to you, gearbox, all Hondas before 1990 should have had alternators failing within months of purchase? Sounds like a warranty fiasco to me.

All three clippings show that the purpose of the ELD is not to improve alternator life, but instead, it is meant to improve gas mileage.

Sorry, on hondaautomotiveparts.com, the only reference to a "Damper" that has any relation to the engine is listed under Engine Mounts.

Product No. - 369957
Illust. No. - 003
Reqd. Qty. - 1
Description - "DAMPER, RR. ENGINE MOUNTING DYNAMIC"

Source - Honda Automotive Parts - AT ENGINE MOUNTS
Source - Honda Automotive Parts - MT ENGINE MOUNTS

On that note, the stock crank pulley is referenced as:

Product No. - 370716
Illust. No. - 013
Reqd. Qty. - 1
Description - "PULLEY, CRANKSHAFT"

Source - Honda Automotive Parts - PISTON-CRANKSHAFT

I do have a volt meter actually, and i went out to do a quick test just before writing all this up.

I started with the engine off (cold) and tested the battery: 12.46 volts
Turned on the engine and let it idle (still cold, no elec/AC): 14.86 volts
Let it warm up to normal temperature (no electronics, no AC): 14.82 volts
Turned on Headlights: 14.54 volts
Turned on AC: 12.83 volts

Seems to me my ELD is doing exactly as its supposed to. Dont know about yours.

This seems like you didn't pay attention to the function of your alternator till AFTER your first problem, or didn't pay attention long enough.

Anyway, it's late right now so i didnt go for a drive to do additional tests. Figure I can do that tomorrow after my midterm.

Till then have a good night ^_^

 
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omg, this is stupid. dont believe everything you read in magazines or the internet. and dont compare alternators from almost 20 yrs ago to today. And i already told you, the damper is built into the pulley! its not a serviceable part, which is why they recommend changing the crank pulley with a new one when doing the timing belt service. and actually somethings wrong with YOUR car if the voltage stays at 12.xx when the a/c is on. well like i said theres no convincing you. the info is out there for others to decide, and thats all i care about.

 
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jeeeezzz. didnt mean to create such a debate fellas haha. but i appreciate the info frmo you two scientists!!! haha