ob2 scanner?
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ob2 scanner?
hey guys.. semi installed my turbo kit nbut im egttin a cel light. and misfires when i do a ecu reset untill the el light comes back on. i need to buy a obd2 scanner but is there a certain one. or can i just go to kragens and buy one form them?im running greddy emanage
OBD-II scanners made by Equus or Actron are good choices. Just make sure it states "universal" OBD-II scanner. Universal scanners will work with all OBD-II protocols which means you can use it on any vehicle, regardless of make.
Kragen lists scanners made by both companies.
Kragen lists scanners made by both companies.
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Get a decient one if you're gonna spend the money, otherwise just go to autozone and have the codes scanned and deleted.
If you're gonna buy, get one with realtime data, maybe recording function, and one that does the vehicle specific codes (otherwise you'll only get the P0XX codes and when the computer throws something like a VTEC code, the scanner won't be able to ID it), also make sure the line is at least 6 or 8 lines.... otherwise you'll be scrolling to read everything. Another smart move is to get one with a detachable port wire, so that if you need to scan an OBD1 car, or when it comes out OBD3 you can swap the diagnostic connector out and scan other cars.
I bought an AutoXray 4000, which does all that crap, and the software on it can be upgraded on line.
If you're gonna buy, get one with realtime data, maybe recording function, and one that does the vehicle specific codes (otherwise you'll only get the P0XX codes and when the computer throws something like a VTEC code, the scanner won't be able to ID it), also make sure the line is at least 6 or 8 lines.... otherwise you'll be scrolling to read everything. Another smart move is to get one with a detachable port wire, so that if you need to scan an OBD1 car, or when it comes out OBD3 you can swap the diagnostic connector out and scan other cars.
I bought an AutoXray 4000, which does all that crap, and the software on it can be upgraded on line.
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Now, if you're getting misfires while the car is moving, they happen very frequently or you're getting them under boost, get the car to a different shop have someone else tune it. It should be a "once in a while" event. I might get a CEL every 6-8 weeks for the car missing. I've nailed it down to a situation where the water temp is just over 100 deg (car driven, then let sit and restarted) with a lot of humidity and not a lot of gas in the car (probably causing wet gas).
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Come on you automotive Guru's. Someone has to be able to provide a valid explanation besides; "It's a tuning issue?" Our car has been out for 5 years now and no one has been able to crack our damn ecu's to manipulate the map?
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Because it can't control the injectors when the car is idling cold. The correction factor is 40-some odd percent which is well beyond the 15% emanage says it can do. The injectors are more or less dumping gas inconsistently because they're way below their actual flow rate. If you've got someone real good at tuning who can spend a lot of time perfecting the idle then it can be worked out, its in the tuning.
Now, if you're getting misfires while the car is moving, or getting them under boost, get the car to a different shop.
Now, if you're getting misfires while the car is moving, or getting them under boost, get the car to a different shop.
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Well, it IS a tuning issue. Thats why EMS doesn't miss... its not manipulating the signal, it SENDS the signal. Emanage doesn't work well in closed loop with out a lot tuning, even then, not so hot. Its taking the stock injector map and just modifying it by a percentage to make the new injectors work... its not operating perfectly since the injector response probably isn't perfectly linear.... but the Emanage is acting like it is.
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