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Engine dies while driving.

 
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Old 07-30-2005
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Engine dies while driving.

My 98 civic dies when I apply too quick of a stroke to the peddle. When in nuetral, I can slowly apply peddle to it and it will rev fine. Too fast, and it tries to stall. The engine is sometimes easy to start, often very difficult, and sometimes impossible. Spark plugs are normal. I've replaced the fuel filter and fuel pressure regulator on it, and no luck.

I just don't have a clue anymore. Too much fuel? Too little fuel? Hmmm...
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Old 07-30-2005
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i can offer some suggestions. First take off the intake and clean the inside of the throttle body with TB spray cleaner they sell at the store. Drive the car to temp, pull the battery negative to reset the computer, and let the car idle for 10 mins without touching the gas or using accessories. It could also be clogged injectors. Buy some fp60 from www.lubecontrol.com and run that with every gas fillup for 1-2 months. I think these will solve the problem. Also check the header to make sure there's no carbon buildup on the inside of the tubes. But I think the problem is clogged injectors. If the fuel treatment doesn't help, there is a place that will perform injector cleaning service online.
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Old 07-30-2005
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Originally Posted by gearbox
i can offer some suggestions. First take off the intake and clean the inside of the throttle body with TB spray cleaner they sell at the store. Drive the car to temp, pull the battery negative to reset the computer, and let the car idle for 10 mins without touching the gas or using accessories. It could also be clogged injectors. Buy some fp60 from www.lubecontrol.com and run that with every gas fillup for 1-2 months. I think these will solve the problem. Also check the header to make sure there's no carbon buildup on the inside of the tubes. But I think the problem is clogged injectors. If the fuel treatment doesn't help, there is a place that will perform injector cleaning service online.
Why do you recommend that particular cleaner?
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Old 07-30-2005
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The store stuff is junk. The cleaner I suggested has been tested and proven in labs and by various automotive and fuel forums. I gained 4 miles per gallon after using it for a month. And its cheap, around $30 for a whole gallon, enough for over 100 treatments. Give me your email and I'll send you the coupon codes.
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Old 07-30-2005
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Originally Posted by gearbox
The store stuff is junk. The cleaner I suggested has been tested and proven in labs and by various automotive and fuel forums. I gained 4 miles per gallon after using it for a month. And its cheap, around $30 for a whole gallon, enough for over 100 treatments. Give me your email and I'll send you the coupon codes.
Gearbox, that would be really selfless of you. Thanks for the suggestions by the way.

AnonymousOxide@gbis.com
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Old 07-30-2005
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A few other things. It could be a sticky throttle cable or one that is too loose. It should be fairly tight with maybe 1/2 inch of slack when you pull it. Have someone press the gas (with car off and intake removed) and see if the throttle plate valve opens smoothly and fully. Also could be a sensor on the throttle body itself thats reading something wrong, or it could be a vacuum leak. You just gotta try simple things first and work your way up.
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Old 07-31-2005
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Originally Posted by gearbox
i can offer some suggestions. First take off the intake and clean the inside of the throttle body with TB spray cleaner they sell at the store. Drive the car to temp, pull the battery negative to reset the computer, and let the car idle for 10 mins without touching the gas or using accessories. It could also be clogged injectors. Buy some fp60 from www.lubecontrol.com and run that with every gas fillup for 1-2 months. I think these will solve the problem. Also check the header to make sure there's no carbon buildup on the inside of the tubes. But I think the problem is clogged injectors. If the fuel treatment doesn't help, there is a place that will perform injector cleaning service online.
Holy jazz! I did what you said regarding the throttle cable and it was loose by like an inch. The factory spec is 3/8th's to 1/2 inch max, so I set it to about 3/8's and now my car feels the way it felt when it was new. I was wondering why I had to push so far on the gas peddle to get the desired result, but now it's peppy as heck. I wonder why it was 1 inch spec; does the cable really stretch over time?

I'm not 100% positive that this fixed the problem, I have to drive it for a few days at least. The engine hasn't been dying at all so far. I did notice a bit of stall when reving, but generally it works perfect.

You, sir, are a genius.

Regarding the fuel system, I will still buy that product you mentioned. My system is probably dirty at 85,000 miles.
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Old 07-31-2005
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Cool! Yea they put the cable very loose from the factory. If you have cruise control and it takes a while for that to engage after pressing the button, try tightening that one too.
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Old 07-31-2005
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Hey gearbox, I notice a clicking coming from the engine. It's possible that it MAY be coming from the belts or belt wheels, but I doubt they make that sound. If it is coming from the engine, could dirty injectors be the cause of it?
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Old 07-31-2005
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clicking is usually just the valves, if its more like a tick sound in tune with the engine idle. You can get a valve adjustment, but thats usually not a big deal. Dirty injectors you sometimes can hear as a whine sound like they're working harder but prolly not with regular ears.
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Old 07-31-2005
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I recently had my timing belt changed. Is it possible that the mechanic didn't set the timing correctly? Would it lead to symptoms such as mine, or is it clearly a fuel related problem?

I'm wondering if my fuel pump is an issue. My civic shop manual has a clear diagnostics approach, I'll have to try it.

Regarding Honda recalls, is there a site where I can view recalls for free?

Thanks,
C_A

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Old 07-31-2005
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if the timing is even off by one tooth, the car will barely start and run like crap all the time. It sounds like you're not gettin enough fuel in there when you press the gas, and the ecu is still calculating a/f from the extra air. If the fuel pump isn't able to give enough fuel or is starting to die, you would hear it start to whine all the time. There aren't any major recalls except the headlight switch, but there are lots of minor tsb issues.
Its small things like glovebox rattle, squeaky moonroof, etc.
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Old 07-31-2005
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Checked the fuel pump by having someone turn key to II (on), and having my ear against the uncovered fuel fill port. I heard a mechanical sound, so that seems normal.
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Old 07-31-2005
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Something I didn't mention:

When I first experimented with fuel injector cleaner, I threw in some cheap 99 cent stuff my dad had lying around. I was experiencing bad power loss during this time (may have been due to the throttle cable). Regardless, when I arrived at my destination and parked my car, I reved the dying engine a few times. What happened next felt as if something clogged got unclogged, as if something popped out and all of a sudden my car felt normal for a while.

I imagine this would indicate clogged injectors like you said. I'm going to have to wait until that FP60 arrives and work it for a month or two. Do you say 1-2 months because that is the most common time frame in which the lines may be cleared of foreign matter?

Thanks,
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Old 07-31-2005
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ya it will take a while but i'm sure you'll feel something after you first add it. The fp60 does alot more than just clean stuff. I've used the crap at the stores and it prolly only made things worse or stayed the same.Some of those are acidic and can corrode stuff over time.
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Old 07-04-2007
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Re: Engine dies while driving.

Well I might as well finish this post. The problem was the spark plugs. They were Bosch platinums, and after a few years of having them in, my car decided not to work anymore. Do NOT put anything but NGK or Denso plugs in your civic, and the EXCATY ones listed in the manual, no exceptions. Do not put platinum plugs, or anything epensive like quad tip plugs. I don't care if your Hanes manual says to put platinum after 90K, DON'T. They are NOT better and are in fact worse--they make your care behave funny, especially over time. I've spoken to several mechanics at Honda that told me the same thing.

It costed me 350 dollars to diagnose and fix the problem at Honda. Live and learn to check the most common things first.
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