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Has anyone had success with a 5mm bore on our stock 60mm throttle bodies? I'm talking an N/A setup.

I'm getting a P&P Head and some ppl like 'Gearbox' say to not bore TB, so should I get a 5 angle valve job and retainers rather then the bored TB

 
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I plan to get my tb bored out. I have never seen and engine that has not responded good to one once tuned. It usually carries a 2-5 hp gain all through the power band. If I am wrong, hell its only 100 bux to get it done.

 
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well ive been told on sohc honda motors to port the exuast side bigger the the intake side or u will lose power

 
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Who told you this? Does anyone have some specs/ratios/%'s? As to how the bore work should be done on our D17's?

djmota? Did you get any specs from your mechanics or note anything of interest, when you got your head p&p'ed what Hp gain did you get just from the P&P?

 
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from my point of view, if you look at all the things that make your car or hold your car back, i see the tb as one of the most or last things to change...

your car is making only say 130, and its not because of the 60mm throttle body. i would find much more important things to do besides the tb. and by saying its only 100 bucks, well 3 tb ported can get you higher compression pistons. that would do more things than a ported tb will ever do...

find something else to spend your money on...jsut my .02

 
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this i never heard of but actually makes sense....
for the same reason as my exhaust piping is bigger than my intake piping..
hot air expands... so the same volume of air comming in would need more room to leave since its probly sevearl hundred degrees hotter... thus needing bigger exhaust ports than intake ports

 
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That's an excellent point, but I can see why the TB would be a more preferable mod for most people. Replacing the pistons isn't a simple DIY. To do this most people would end up having to take it in to a shop to have it done. However, a throttle body can easily be removed with some simple hand tools and a basic knowledge of the car. Even if you're only getting 4 more ponies out of a bigger throttle body, it's still cheaper than replacing your intake in most cases, and the power gains would be similar.

 
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talk to grey. he tried the diy tb bore and it didnt really work out well from what i remember. im not sure if he did it wrong, but i remember him saying that it was a mistake to diy that, or something to that effect.

i am not a huge gearhead, but im not sure the tb is the biggest restriction the d17 has. sure, it might give you some hp gains, but im sure you can find something more worthwhile to improve. not sure if youve modified it or not, but the intake manifold is pretty restrictive from what i understand.

have you done any flow tests? you should work on whatever is the most restrictive part. but thats just my opinion.

 
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Not a whole lot from just pnp about 10 whp. BUt the head is just one piece of the puzzle. As you do more things to improve flow, the head will work as a mutiplier on those mods. As it sits now, I am sure I would lose more than 10whp if I put a stock head back on. IMO get the valve job and retainers while you have the head off. You can always bore out your throttle body later.

 
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what about that other guy jrock? i thought he got 20whp from his P&P on an auto.

 
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Exactly!! One of the many important things you must know when modding, what are you trying to achieve, also you do not do one thing with out matching it to other mods to get the most of each mod. I.e. just port the exhaust side.....you should then have the intake side touched to match the flow from the exhaust, cam should follow to match to the flow setup of the ports. One of the mods I do not have a clue about is turbo's. That is what I would look into before N/A. But no matter what you do you should always ask what I am trying to build. My .02c over

 
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What type of pistons? what kind of HP increase are they going to give me? Are there any associated problems with running a higher compresion, like heat?

I will metion to the mechanics to do some flow tests prior to pulling aprt my engine so that they can appropiatley match the port job, cam etc....


Interesting point! What is the idea of the valve job? What's actually getting done? Retainers I will get some better ones for sure! After an hour or so racing I can feel the stock ones geting quite sloppy.

 
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The valve job will help air flow past the valve better. Lighter retainers will help the valves close quicker and lighten up the valve train a tad.

The 10 hp from the pnp was untuned, running rich.

 
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i think its the IM and TB put together. our IM sucks ***. that's why I'm changing to a y8 IM.

 
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All it does is lean out your A/F ratios, thus making more power. That's all.

On the D17, I say no. Don't bother. All motor D17's are not worth it. Spray or spool to really play.

 
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MY idea is to build it up internally to make solid power around 8k and than spray! So that I can run a comfortable 75 shot