I plan to send my TB to him next week to get it bored out. The site has alot of info on it, and the guy comes highly recommended. Here's what he says about the D17.

I especially like the part about using screws for the TPS. However, here is what he says about raising the idle.

I just got it back! Here are some rough measurments I made.

Stock TB
-top diameter 60mm
-bottom diameter 58mm

Ported
-top 63mm
-bottom 60mm

The work looks incredible. Pics speak for themselves. I just installed it and drove around alot. Well I don't really feel more power to be honest, but the throttle response went way up. I had to really tighten up the cable for some reason. It's almost as tight as it can go, but still has a little slack. The car feels good. Also, I had to dremel out the rubber seal on the stock intake so it sits flush with the ported TB. I couldn't bring myself to port the IM and get stuff down there. Hopefully not a big deal. Anyway, here are pics.

dam nice pretty cheap to

to Tech....

yeah i checked him out the other day...i will be sending him my extra one also...but not until i get this kit on.....all my extra cash in going to this turbo kit...i have a deadline...and i plan to meet it

**** looks good to me. and he has a big vouch tread! i say go for it. ill be sending mine for 100 u can beat that.

I should be getting this back late next week. Then I'm gonna try and port the intake mani and post a diy here. I hope this solves my idle problems.

^^ nice, did you get that 60 mm bore? ... what if you want bigger? say ... 65 mm?

Our TB can't be bored more than 1mm, without having it collapse. I guess you need a new TB made like the one DH is offering. Bigger is not always better, and a larger TB may cause problems. Not to mention losing some of the sensors.

^^ well actually I was referring to a k20 tb

yes, dh's tb is way too big

I just spun a spare TB on my lathe. At aprox. 58 mm the bearings were showing. Unless its acceptable to remove the bearing seats from the inside of the TB how can we get 60mm?

Can you post a pic of what you mean? How big is the stock opening?

I was under the inpression that the TB was made of a plastic material. A buddy of mine was pushing a 50 shot on his 01 and blew the TB apart or so he said. Is the true or possible?

The throttle body is most definately a metal of sorts. I think he's talking about our intake manifold, which is plastic (better since it won't heat up as much).

Maybe I was tired or just retarted but I was talking about the intake manifold. Anyway Sorry about that.

It comes in tomorrow! Look for pics and a review if I get it installed and running.

bump for update

Your not really going to notice a HP/Torque difference with a bored out TB unless you have some kind of boost. If anything, it would hurt your low-end, or that is what I have always been told.

Interesting. I've always thought that letting a bit more air in would help power. All I have now is the ported TB and head. But you're right. I didn't feel any difference, except maybe a little less low end. Maybe tuning will fix this?

Well guess what? I opened the air cleaner box to look inside, and there's no IM overlap! So there's no need to port match the IM. Only thing I did was shave about 1mm off the rubber that holds the stock intake on the top of the TB. If you have an aftermarket intake, there's no problem.

awsome post and DIY looks like i'm gonna search around for a tb and go send it off to have it bored out ... YAY .... 2 more hp for my civ, if that

So you did not notice a power increase Gearbox?

The car feels different for sure, especially after driving around a few days for the ecu to adjust. I'm gonna try raising the idle to solve my shaking problem and make sure the throttle cable isn't too loose.

sounds and looks good. the throttle body should give you a 1-4 hp throughout the powerband...at least thats what they usually do on other applications. good stuff

I played with the idle and throttle cable and it feels good I think. More details tonight.

Raising the idle didn't work. The cel came on, and the rpms would get stuck when you rev the engine. So now it's back to 700rpms, which is the recommended idle level in neutral. My car still shakes a little after the new head install. Oh well, good enough. Now I need some tuning and that's it.