Spark Plug Gappin'
05-05-2004
#31
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zen_master,
Honestly, I don't think it will matter too much if you do or do not use anti-seize. If you do, just be sure to use it sparingly and only apply it to the portion of the plug threads which will NOT protrude into the combustion chamber.
The Honda factory service manual recommends it.
Keep in mind though that the more often you change plugs and if you avoid over torquing them, the less you'll need to use anti-seize. Plugs get stuck when people leave them in for 100K+ miles and/or tighten them as if their lives depended upon it.
What would I do? I personally wouldn't use anti-seize as I know i would change out my plugs every 2-3 years at minimum. But that's just me, and I don't think you would do wrong either way.
13 lb-ft or 14 lb-ft, it doesn't matter. The 1 lb-ft difference is small and falls well within the accuracy of most deflection torque wrenches.
Here are a couple of things I recommend you take time to ensure when changing out plugs on any car:
1. Before removing your old plugs, be sure to suck or blow out any debris/dirt/etc that has accumulated in your plug well. An air compressor (if you have access to one) is ideal for this purpose. Simply blow off any dirt and rock which may have managed to get into the plug well to prevent it from falling into the cylinder when you remove your plug. If you don't have access to an air compressor, a trick is to use one of those cans of air found in your local office supply or computer store. A blast of that using the straw tip is a very good proxy.
2. When installing your new plugs, avoid cross threading them by NOT using your socket wrench until the plug is hand tight. Use your plug socket and extension like a screwdriver and hand tighten your plug until it seats. If you feel any resistance, back the plug out and try installing again. This, in my opinion, is the most important element of a proper plug install.
Good luck!
Velocifero
Honestly, I don't think it will matter too much if you do or do not use anti-seize. If you do, just be sure to use it sparingly and only apply it to the portion of the plug threads which will NOT protrude into the combustion chamber.
The Honda factory service manual recommends it.
Keep in mind though that the more often you change plugs and if you avoid over torquing them, the less you'll need to use anti-seize. Plugs get stuck when people leave them in for 100K+ miles and/or tighten them as if their lives depended upon it.
What would I do? I personally wouldn't use anti-seize as I know i would change out my plugs every 2-3 years at minimum. But that's just me, and I don't think you would do wrong either way.
13 lb-ft or 14 lb-ft, it doesn't matter. The 1 lb-ft difference is small and falls well within the accuracy of most deflection torque wrenches.
Here are a couple of things I recommend you take time to ensure when changing out plugs on any car:
1. Before removing your old plugs, be sure to suck or blow out any debris/dirt/etc that has accumulated in your plug well. An air compressor (if you have access to one) is ideal for this purpose. Simply blow off any dirt and rock which may have managed to get into the plug well to prevent it from falling into the cylinder when you remove your plug. If you don't have access to an air compressor, a trick is to use one of those cans of air found in your local office supply or computer store. A blast of that using the straw tip is a very good proxy.
2. When installing your new plugs, avoid cross threading them by NOT using your socket wrench until the plug is hand tight. Use your plug socket and extension like a screwdriver and hand tighten your plug until it seats. If you feel any resistance, back the plug out and try installing again. This, in my opinion, is the most important element of a proper plug install.
Good luck!
Velocifero
05-05-2004
#33
Velocifero,
thank you very much for your help, it's been a great help!
i think your two opinions regarding what should i do before i replace them are very useful! I will definitely do that....I think i'll use my vacuum cleaner in order to take out those "rusty" dusts...
thank you again for all of the informations, i think it's very usefull...
hahaha, yeah...i realize that im a detail freak..especially when it comes to the engine...... =)
thanx guys!
anywho...i just returned all three stuffs that i showed on the picture....
FYI, one of the spark plugs was mis-gapped by few points.....thanx for the info that recommend me to check them before installing..
thank you very much for your help, it's been a great help!
i think your two opinions regarding what should i do before i replace them are very useful! I will definitely do that....I think i'll use my vacuum cleaner in order to take out those "rusty" dusts...
thank you again for all of the informations, i think it's very usefull...
hahaha, yeah...i realize that im a detail freak..especially when it comes to the engine...... =)
thanx guys!
anywho...i just returned all three stuffs that i showed on the picture....
FYI, one of the spark plugs was mis-gapped by few points.....thanx for the info that recommend me to check them before installing..
06-02-2004
#39
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Glad to hear that your install went well. How did your stock plugs looked when you pulled them? How many miles did you have on your stock plugs when you changed them out?
My wife has about ~40k miles on her '01 LX and I think its about time I changed her plugs as well. I plan to replace her original plugs a set of Autolite double platinum plugs. They're on sale right now for $3 each at my local Checker Auto.
Glad to hear that your install went well. How did your stock plugs looked when you pulled them? How many miles did you have on your stock plugs when you changed them out?
My wife has about ~40k miles on her '01 LX and I think its about time I changed her plugs as well. I plan to replace her original plugs a set of Autolite double platinum plugs. They're on sale right now for $3 each at my local Checker Auto.
06-10-2004
#41
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Rep Power: 344 stock plugs are either NGK double platinum (which you have there) or the Denso double platinum.
they're freaking expensive.. running around 10-12 bucks each... supposely they dont even reach the 110,000 miles (according to manual, thats when we should swap the plugs heh)
I just swapped my plugs out today too at ~44,000 miles. the plugs are fine but I think there is some minor melting from overheating.
bought the NGK gp-plantium ZFR6FGP for about 16 shipped for the set of 4.
they're freaking expensive.. running around 10-12 bucks each... supposely they dont even reach the 110,000 miles (according to manual, thats when we should swap the plugs heh)
I just swapped my plugs out today too at ~44,000 miles. the plugs are fine but I think there is some minor melting from overheating.
bought the NGK gp-plantium ZFR6FGP for about 16 shipped for the set of 4.
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