change spark plugs? Pic
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change spark plugs? Pic
30K miles already, i'm going to change my stock spark plugs to Denso Iridium IK20 this weekend, anythin i needs to watch up for? also i'm going to get the torque adjustable lbs wrench to tighten these plugs up to 13lbs.
anythin i needs to know, pls post up, thanks
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oky, i digi some pic after i changed spark plugs to Denso.
ALL 4 stock NGK looks real bad after 30k miles, compared to Denso.....engine felt more strong now.....
anythin i needs to know, pls post up, thanks
--------------
oky, i digi some pic after i changed spark plugs to Denso.
ALL 4 stock NGK looks real bad after 30k miles, compared to Denso.....engine felt more strong now.....
Last edited by MIT; Nov 16, 2003 at 08:08 PM.
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From: so cal djmota=oscar
Rep Power: 323 nope... pretty straight forward job. just dont drop anything in the engine, and use a magnet or the ignition coil to get the plug out of the hole.
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From: Fort Oglethorpe
Rep Power: 315 My Spark Plug DIY is on the DX-R site in my sig. All the DIYs I'm putting on there are in pdf form, so you can save it and print it out. Lots of good info there and even a FAQ.
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Rep Power: 0 It's a silver colored liquid/goo that's used in the assembly of parts that will need to replaced in the future.
Without anti-seize, over time these parts can become "bonded" with their seating hosts making it difficult to remove thus leading to lots of cussing, swearing, possible broken parts and lost wrenches in the shrubs or other inaccesible places. The prime examples are spark plugs, water pump bolts, head bolts, or intake/exhausts manifold studs.
It also has some anti-corrosion properties making it ideal for the screws that attach the rear license plate. The screws holes are a rust magnet.
Without anti-seize, over time these parts can become "bonded" with their seating hosts making it difficult to remove thus leading to lots of cussing, swearing, possible broken parts and lost wrenches in the shrubs or other inaccesible places. The prime examples are spark plugs, water pump bolts, head bolts, or intake/exhausts manifold studs.
It also has some anti-corrosion properties making it ideal for the screws that attach the rear license plate. The screws holes are a rust magnet.
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From: , Other, ZEBRA
Rep Power: 0 aren't you worried that the anti-seize could get into your engine?
Originally posted by Flashlightboy
It's a silver colored liquid/goo that's used in the assembly of parts that will need to replaced in the future.
Without anti-seize, over time these parts can become "bonded" with their seating hosts making it difficult to remove thus leading to lots of cussing, swearing, possible broken parts and lost wrenches in the shrubs or other inaccesible places. The prime examples are spark plugs, water pump bolts, head bolts, or intake/exhausts manifold studs.
It also has some anti-corrosion properties making it ideal for the screws that attach the rear license plate. The screws holes are a rust magnet.
It's a silver colored liquid/goo that's used in the assembly of parts that will need to replaced in the future.
Without anti-seize, over time these parts can become "bonded" with their seating hosts making it difficult to remove thus leading to lots of cussing, swearing, possible broken parts and lost wrenches in the shrubs or other inaccesible places. The prime examples are spark plugs, water pump bolts, head bolts, or intake/exhausts manifold studs.
It also has some anti-corrosion properties making it ideal for the screws that attach the rear license plate. The screws holes are a rust magnet.
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From: chicago, Other, ZEBRA
Rep Power: 304 you're not supposed to squirt a ton of antiseize onto the plugs, just a little and apply it around the threads of the plug. its a really good thing to do like Flashlightboy said, you wouldnt want any stripped thread holes where you spark plugs go now do you???
Re: change spark plugs? Pic
Originally posted by MIT
[B] i'm going to get the torque adjustable lbs wrench to tighten these plugs up to 13lbs.
anythin i needs to know, pls post up, thanks
[B] i'm going to get the torque adjustable lbs wrench to tighten these plugs up to 13lbs.
anythin i needs to know, pls post up, thanks
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From: Las Vegas, NV
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a torque wrench has a torque meter on it, and it tells you how many ft-lbs of torque you're applying on the bolt/spark plug/whatever
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From: Fort Oglethorpe
Rep Power: 315 On the back of my Denso box, it said to turn the plugs 1/4 to 1/2 turn to properly seat them. It's not that big a deal. They're not moving parts,like a cam, so torqueing them isn't as important. If you have a torque wrench, use it, otherwise 1/4-1/2 turn them. I didn't have a torque wrench, and they're working great.
About the anti-seize..use it if you want. It's to keep the plugs from getting stuck in there over time. It makes them easier to remove the next time they're changed. It's not about stripping the threads.
The easiest way to start the plugs is to put the new plug in the plug socket and put the extention bar on there. Start it with your hand, not the wrench. If it cross-threads, you'll know it quickly, it takes several turns before the plug snugs by hand and you can back it off and start again if it cross-threads.
About the anti-seize..use it if you want. It's to keep the plugs from getting stuck in there over time. It makes them easier to remove the next time they're changed. It's not about stripping the threads.
The easiest way to start the plugs is to put the new plug in the plug socket and put the extention bar on there. Start it with your hand, not the wrench. If it cross-threads, you'll know it quickly, it takes several turns before the plug snugs by hand and you can back it off and start again if it cross-threads.
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From: SoCali
Rep Power: 0 torque is important, cuz if too loose can overheat in engine, if to tight can hurt the engine..... just get one Husky torque adjusting lbs/ft at Home Depot, cost like $54.
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Rep Power: 0 Blow off any accumulated road grime from around the plugs before pulling them out. Don't want any crap dropping in through your plug hole. If you don't have access to a compressor, find one at a service station. Cheap insurance.
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Rep Power: 0 On the plug torque, the objective is to crush the washer correctly, but not too much. 1/2 a turn past finger seating is fine. Worry about proper torque when you're indexing your plugs for race use. If you're not racing (as in real racing, not just taking our cars to the track), using the 1/2 turn vs 13 ft-lbs torque doesn't matter.
Use anti seize if you don't change the plugs often. If you're doing it regularly, it doesn't matter as much. It all boils down to how seriously you take your mechanics.
Use anti seize if you don't change the plugs often. If you're doing it regularly, it doesn't matter as much. It all boils down to how seriously you take your mechanics.
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