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Alright i got the gauge hooked up. it works fine lights up etc.. but i just have a question on about how much its suppose to move? anyone have an Idea? like it moves alot when i have my foot steadily on the gas. just let me know please
thanks
colin

 
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It moves every time the computer adjusts the fuel mix... several times per second.

 
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Ever since I hooked mine up, sometimes when I turn it on, I installed a switch, the car starts up fine, and after about 5 or 10 seconds, it runs ruff, down to like 200 RPM's, I have to turn the car off, then start it back up, then it runs fine. Is this only happening to me? I also get a problem sometimes, when it is not on, and I come off the off ramp, and at the light, it does the same thing. I dont think it is the A/F ratio gauge, but maybe it adds impact when it is on. Any help in this is appreciated.

 
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That guage is about as usefull as the autometer clock...

 
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That's an OVERstatement. The autometer clock can actually give you some info. I have the A/F gauge... it's really only useful for telling you that the car is warmed up. I just start the car up, and when it starts going to lean, that means it's time to go!

 
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so i guess its not worth it to get.

 
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Actually, I found it interesting to see how the computer controlled the fuel while driving. I know it really serves no tuning purpose, but just figuring out that the car runs lean all the time on the highway was a little bit of a surprise, figuring out it cuts almost all the fuel off when you take your foot off the gas, how it hardly ever goes rich at all...

It gives you some sense into the inner workings of the car. Perhaps some people find that interesting and thats why they buy it. As for mine... its pretty much served its use... Cuz I now know what the fuel mix is for most normal situations... so I'll probably be taking mine out soon in favor of something far more useful for monitoring.

 
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In some aspects it might be. It's accurate enough to tell you if you are running really lean or not. The best A/F gauge to get is probably the GReddy one. It's a 4-wire wideband with sensor, which is accurate (but not as much as a 5-wire is) enough to tune from.

I say, spend some money and get this bad boy... cheap and effective for a 5-wire: http://www.innovatemotorsports.com/x...me.php?cat=248

 
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most new cars does some sort of fuel cut off when you decelerate, otherwise, it will run too rich, it runs leaner because it uses the extra oxygen for the cat

 
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im selling a A/F gauge, if anyone wants it, pm me,

 
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Check out this site:

http://www.gadgetseller.com/gauges/index.htm

They sell modified autometer A/F gauges because of this problem. The modified gauges read voltages from the "rich" area of the O2 sensor - about .75-1 volt I believe, which is where the important readings are when you are at WOT. Read the FAQ's on their site for more info. I am in the process of modifying the A/F gauge myself (actually I am going to run 2 A/F gauges, one modified to read as stated on this site, the other modfied as a boost gauge ).

 
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Yeah I am having the same problem, I left to Iraq in Feb and went back home on leave in June and I didn't start my car up for that whole time I was gone. So I go to my garage to start her up, she didn't do anything so I wired my car with my dads and started her. Well, when I started her I noticed she idle at 200 rpms just like yours. Well, the problem is that since I didn't start her for so long made my altanator or generator or what ever its called kind of go out. So when I get back Im going to have to replace it with a new one so that it will idle back at about 600 or 700 rpms again. Oh by the way I got a tune up after I started her and new battery, and still she idled at 200rpm so I think it is the altenator or generator one of the two, so that might be the problem. Hope this helps

 
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a/f guages are crap...if you want to know where your at with your air fuel ratio you are going to need a wide band o2 sensor...and that's that...this autometer crap is about as acurate as when your *** dyno said 12+ hp when you simple greened your engine bay...

Dont waste your money on the a/f guage and go with the wideband o2 if you want to tune, or even know where your at...

 
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i believe that A/F guages are meant for cars that have forced inductions so that they can spot a problem before it gets out of hand, i.e., your having fun one day with your turbo car and find that you're runnin lean when you go to WOT(you should probably go a little rich). if you keep this up without doing anything about it, youre gonna burn a piston. however, if you notice this, and fix the problem, via adjust fuel pressure, install larger pump, or injectors, etc, youll save your engine and be able to go on your merry way.

 
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Eternal you are correct, but if your runnin a turbo setup your not going to want a autometer a/f guage your going to want a wideband o2 sensor...and that's that...

 
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Did anyone bother to read the link I posted? You can make the autometer gauge work properly with a "standard" O2 sensor. Yes, a wideband is the holy grail of all things - but remember that it would still be a dummy light. Most, including AEM have a standard output that is supposed to interface with the stock ECU to prevent problems - but if you take a look at AEM's website it says that the stock output is like .5-1 volts. The rest is missing. The stock ECU isn't going to like that when its not reading right.

The only way to actually make USE of a wideband is to get the AEM EMS - which accepts wideband inputs. Otherwise its just going to be an expensive tuning device.

 
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I disagree kinda with two statements (just IMO because there is a lot of truth to what both of you said, but not entirely full picture):

If someone else tuned your engine, and you don't directly do any of it yourself, a narrowband would be enough to let you know if you are hitting any limits. It won't do anything for you on an N/A engine basically unless you have some serious mods that demand more fuel. But on a boosted engine, the gauge is a semi-good indicator of your Rich-lean limits. It will tell you if you are running really rich, or really lean... it's just no good for the in betweens and definitely no good for tuning... but nonetheless, it can serve a purpose (as shitty as it may be).


That is the only way for the ECU (in that case the EMS) to make use of the Wideband. The UEGO can be used on the stock ECU and reads a 0-1V signal "The AEM Wideband UEGO controller has a very low current draw, and features both 0-5v calibrated output and 0-1v calibrated output to mimic the factory narrow-band sensor, eliminating the chance of a factory computer issuing a trouble code."

Our (EX/LX/DX) primary O2 sensor reads that range. 0.4V and below is lean, 0.6V and above is rich. So I don't think our ECU would have a problem.

But a Wideband O2 sensor and controller used standalone can't be labled as just an expensive tuning device. It's an add-on and a tool just like anything else in the market. The Greddy Emanage, Apex'i AFC, HKS AFR, AEM EMS, HKS F-CON, Haltech, etc etc... all of those management systems (standalone and piggyback) are all just expensive tuning devices without the proper tools to tune it. If you are tuning... it's stupid to have one without the other. I'm buying a wideband and hooking it up to the E-01 for a read out, being that the E-01 recieves analog inputs. But I'll be using it to fine tune my engine.