Alternator lifetime
#31
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Mine Alt got changed at 73K, it didn't die at that time but the batter light kept light up so the goodyear place put napa alt in twice. Now, it rocks solid.
I didn't expect Alt to act weird below 100k mi. But because I use my car for delivery for 4 years so I guess that was the reason.
I didn't expect Alt to act weird below 100k mi. But because I use my car for delivery for 4 years so I guess that was the reason.
#32
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not to bring up an old thread but.... I think my alternator is going out.
Last night on the way home, started the car OK. I turned ON A/C and noticed no cooling, OK no biggie afterwall sometimes it takes a while thank to the AZ hot weather. I got on the freeway; turned ON the headlights then my guages (rpm/speedo), radio went out, battery light came ON, plus other lights on intrument panel came ON (SRS, CEL,etc) but still driving OK. Turned OFF my headlights, then everything was back to normal operating conditions. I exited the freeway, drove for 1/2 a mile, went to a local gas station to fill-up. Then when I tried to restart, DEAD. When I checked my batteries I found my POSITIVE cable was loose on the terminal so I tightened it up got a jump from a stranger, thank you. I checked my voltage with a fluke voltmeter and I was at 11.8v. by the time I drove off the gas station, I can almost feel and tell it was about to die again. I went for about 2 miles, pulled over then checked my voltage while on idle and it went from a 10v, 8v and then DIED. The only load I have on at the time was the radio.
The battery is only 14mos. old but the tow truck driver says out here in AZ that is normal to go out quick at times because of the weather plus have the loose positive cable may have speed up the dying process. I am going to have my battery replaced today since it under warranty.
Question for the group... do you guys think it's the alternator. I will test it again once I get the new battery when I get home and do the start engine, disconnect the cable and see what happens test.
Btw, this is the OE alternator since day one. I have a 2001 Civic LX, MT with 309k miles on it.
Any thoughts or recommendation. My apologies for the loonnnngggg post.
Last night on the way home, started the car OK. I turned ON A/C and noticed no cooling, OK no biggie afterwall sometimes it takes a while thank to the AZ hot weather. I got on the freeway; turned ON the headlights then my guages (rpm/speedo), radio went out, battery light came ON, plus other lights on intrument panel came ON (SRS, CEL,etc) but still driving OK. Turned OFF my headlights, then everything was back to normal operating conditions. I exited the freeway, drove for 1/2 a mile, went to a local gas station to fill-up. Then when I tried to restart, DEAD. When I checked my batteries I found my POSITIVE cable was loose on the terminal so I tightened it up got a jump from a stranger, thank you. I checked my voltage with a fluke voltmeter and I was at 11.8v. by the time I drove off the gas station, I can almost feel and tell it was about to die again. I went for about 2 miles, pulled over then checked my voltage while on idle and it went from a 10v, 8v and then DIED. The only load I have on at the time was the radio.
The battery is only 14mos. old but the tow truck driver says out here in AZ that is normal to go out quick at times because of the weather plus have the loose positive cable may have speed up the dying process. I am going to have my battery replaced today since it under warranty.
Question for the group... do you guys think it's the alternator. I will test it again once I get the new battery when I get home and do the start engine, disconnect the cable and see what happens test.
Btw, this is the OE alternator since day one. I have a 2001 Civic LX, MT with 309k miles on it.
Any thoughts or recommendation. My apologies for the loonnnngggg post.
#33
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if the battery light came on, alternator is dying. and thats what prolly ruined the battery since it wasnt being charged and just kept draining. you may be able to recharge the old battery and keep using it, but i wouldnt risk it with how cheap batteries are.
#35
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update regarding my recent prob....
I got a new battery, only cost me $2.18 since it was under warranty.
Anyway, I noticed that my battery terminal clamps were not clean, took care of that. Then I also noticed that the ring connector under the black boot on the side of the alternator was loose. There was actually a black plastic on the all-thread terminal which separates it from the body of the alternator, it was cracked so I replaced that with my own make shift plastic piece and re-tightened it all up. I cleaned that all-thread terminal and cleaned the ring connector that goes on it. I also checked the green connector on the alternator and checked the belt. Now everything is working normal once again without a problem.
I am assuming with the loose positive cable on the battery terminal and the loose nut on the terminal ring under the rubber black boot on the side of the alternator may have been the prob all this time. I will keep an eye on it and see how it goes. I took voltage readings with load and without and everything is good.
I got a new battery, only cost me $2.18 since it was under warranty.
Anyway, I noticed that my battery terminal clamps were not clean, took care of that. Then I also noticed that the ring connector under the black boot on the side of the alternator was loose. There was actually a black plastic on the all-thread terminal which separates it from the body of the alternator, it was cracked so I replaced that with my own make shift plastic piece and re-tightened it all up. I cleaned that all-thread terminal and cleaned the ring connector that goes on it. I also checked the green connector on the alternator and checked the belt. Now everything is working normal once again without a problem.
I am assuming with the loose positive cable on the battery terminal and the loose nut on the terminal ring under the rubber black boot on the side of the alternator may have been the prob all this time. I will keep an eye on it and see how it goes. I took voltage readings with load and without and everything is good.
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