What a properly indexed strut looks like *pics*
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What a properly indexed strut looks like *pics*
I took my drivers side off today to check out if I had indexed it right when I put my Koni's a while back ago. I didnt, so I fixed it and decided to take a pic since I had it apart. If you removed the spring for any reason(like installing new ones), make sure that you reassemble it correctly or you'll get popping noises when turning. Alot of people know this already, but for those who dont this might help you. I took this picture with the spring removed so you could see the hole on the lower perch easier.
To properly reassemble the strut, you must first make sure that the spring is seated in the lower perch correctly. Then you must line up the two triangles on the top mount and upper spring perch with the hole on the lower spring perch. Here's a pic of what I mean. Just line up the three circles in a straight vertical line, while making sure the top perch rubber isolator is seated correctly on the top of the spring. Then slowly remove your spring compressor making sure the spring doesnt move around.
Once your all done, it should look like this:
After the spring compressor is removed, make sure that the spring is still seated properly on the lower perch and that everything is lined up as close as possible. If not compress the spring again and realign. Once its all lined up and the spring is seated correctly, reinstall the strut assembly in the car. Remember that once you get the strut in and install the pinch bolts and top nuts, to preload the strut a little with a floor jack. Preloading will help remove any spaces and loose sections that can cause noise. Make sure you DONT put the floor jack on the flat part of the lower control arm or you could bend it. Then tighten the pinch bolts and top nuts enough so they wont move. Remove the jack and torque everything down to spec.
Hope this helps...
To properly reassemble the strut, you must first make sure that the spring is seated in the lower perch correctly. Then you must line up the two triangles on the top mount and upper spring perch with the hole on the lower spring perch. Here's a pic of what I mean. Just line up the three circles in a straight vertical line, while making sure the top perch rubber isolator is seated correctly on the top of the spring. Then slowly remove your spring compressor making sure the spring doesnt move around.
Once your all done, it should look like this:
After the spring compressor is removed, make sure that the spring is still seated properly on the lower perch and that everything is lined up as close as possible. If not compress the spring again and realign. Once its all lined up and the spring is seated correctly, reinstall the strut assembly in the car. Remember that once you get the strut in and install the pinch bolts and top nuts, to preload the strut a little with a floor jack. Preloading will help remove any spaces and loose sections that can cause noise. Make sure you DONT put the floor jack on the flat part of the lower control arm or you could bend it. Then tighten the pinch bolts and top nuts enough so they wont move. Remove the jack and torque everything down to spec.
Hope this helps...
Last edited by robbclark1; Apr 8, 2007 at 04:52 PM.
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Rep Power: 311 Originally posted by SVongkasem
Wow, I didn't know that! Thats probably why my suspension makes popping and buzzing noises sometimes. This goes for the rear springs too?
Wow, I didn't know that! Thats probably why my suspension makes popping and buzzing noises sometimes. This goes for the rear springs too?
Heheh yeah I didnt know this either until I studied my Helms manual a little closer. The Helms manual shows you how to do this, but my parts differ from what illustrated so I didnt get it the first time around either.
For the rears its not as critical to get the perches lined up since you dont have to index them. As long as the spring is seated correctly it should be fine.
I have the OEM version of weight reduction. DX
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Rep Power: 316 Would you hear these popping noises even when the car is in motion, or just when it is at a stand still? I have a little bit of that "popping" noise while at a standstill, well and a little of what we call coil bind ....
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Rep Power: 311 Originally posted by DnarahP
Would you hear these popping noises even when the car is in motion, or just when it is at a stand still? I have a little bit of that "popping" noise while at a standstill, well and a little of what we call coil bind ....
Would you hear these popping noises even when the car is in motion, or just when it is at a stand still? I have a little bit of that "popping" noise while at a standstill, well and a little of what we call coil bind ....
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Rep Power: 311 Originally posted by GaryC17
Flotsamm, I noticed that you have installed your springs with the closer spaced coils on the top. Aren't they suppose to be on the bottom ? Anyone can clarify this ?
Flotsamm, I noticed that you have installed your springs with the closer spaced coils on the top. Aren't they suppose to be on the bottom ? Anyone can clarify this ?
For the rear, the dead coils go on the bottom.
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Rep Power: 311 Originally posted by jttegx
is this why my skunk2 coilovers with stock shocks make those popping/clanking noises? i would've greased them up but no grease around at the time.
is this why my skunk2 coilovers with stock shocks make those popping/clanking noises? i would've greased them up but no grease around at the time.
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Rep Power: 0 its crucial to know this if you look at the lower seat for the spring you will notice it is angled. This angle is also matched on the top retainer for the spring they need to match thats the reason for the marks if they dont there will not be enough pre-load on the spring and the spring will rotate in the strut causing your poping and piniung noises
I believe this is only on 2002 and halfs up
7gen03
I believe this is only on 2002 and halfs up
7gen03
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Rep Power: 311 I might be wrong in my post above about indexing. My Helms manual says that your suppose to line up the arrows on the top mount and upper perch with the knuckle mounting area(or hole on lower perch). I did this, and I still had some popping and what sounded like coil bind. Today, after installing some Progress springs on my nephews RSX I noticed that the knuckle mounting area wasnt lined up with the arrows, but instead with the paint marks(see above pics, the yellow paint marks is what I'm referring to). This is the way it came stock on his car. So I installed them using the paint marks and he has no problems with popping. This got me curious so when I got home today I redid my struts using the paint marks also and now it doesnt pop. I still had a little coil binding noise when turning right but its no where near as bad as was. So it might be something to test out. Perhaps this is why they put the damn paint marks on there! DOH.. hrmm. Not sure but something to try since it helped me get rid of the noises.
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Rep Power: 0 yo.. flotsamm.. please re-explain this new indexing method using the paint marks... recall that I had the popping noise on my pro kit/koni set up.. After re-indexing using the arrows and the hole on the knucle mount, the popping was less but still there... I'm taking the car to have the strut assembly checked again and want to know what to tell the guy... so is it basically lining up the 2 paint marks on the 2 upper mount pieces with the hole on the bottom perch? Should I ignore the arrows?
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Rep Power: 311 Yup.. after doing my nephews RSX over the weekend and seeing how is was indexed using the paint marks instead of the arrows, I went a re-did mine. After using the paint marks instead of the arrow on the upper perch, my struts no longer make this popping noise when coming to a stop or taking off. It sounded like a CV joint going bad, but it wasnt. Now my car seems to track alot better now when driving down the freeway(feels like it was when I first got it) and takes less effort to steer. I still have some coil bind noise, but its much better then it was and less noisy.
After taking closer at the struts, I found my original index line that I scratched into the upper perch when I fiirst installed my Sportlines. The index line matches up with the paint marks, so I'm fairly certain that this may be the way Honda assmbles them.
What I dont get is why my Helms manual says to use the arrows, but when you take them out its using the paint marks instead. Go figure. Anyways, might be worth trying for some peeps.
After taking closer at the struts, I found my original index line that I scratched into the upper perch when I fiirst installed my Sportlines. The index line matches up with the paint marks, so I'm fairly certain that this may be the way Honda assmbles them.
What I dont get is why my Helms manual says to use the arrows, but when you take them out its using the paint marks instead. Go figure. Anyways, might be worth trying for some peeps.
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Rep Power: 311 The coil bind is from the spring coils rubbing against each other when the spring is twisted when I turn the wheel. It only happens when I'm parked and turning the wheel, or driving really slow and turning. I might have to try installing some coil wrap and see if it helps some.
It could be related to indexing, since if the strut insnt indexed right the spring wont be seated in the perches correctly. But I've done it both way now(the Helms method using the arrows and now the factory method using the paint marks) and the paint marks method seems to be better and less noisy then the Helms method.
It could be related to indexing, since if the strut insnt indexed right the spring wont be seated in the perches correctly. But I've done it both way now(the Helms method using the arrows and now the factory method using the paint marks) and the paint marks method seems to be better and less noisy then the Helms method.
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Rep Power: 265 Re: What a properly indexed strut looks like *pics*
probably like 30 minutes given you know what you are doing....the two marks dont have to be perfectly aligned they can be a little off
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I'd say for a 1 hour if you dont rush.
Remember you'll need to take the strut appart, allign strut cup mark to strut mrk, assemble the whole thing together and put back on.
Remember you'll need to take the strut appart, allign strut cup mark to strut mrk, assemble the whole thing together and put back on.
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Rep Power: 281 Re: What a properly indexed strut looks like *pics*
If you know what you're doing, then you can handle this job alone.
I had to redo my struts before I was made aware of indexing.
I had to redo my struts before I was made aware of indexing.
Re: What a properly indexed strut looks like *pics*
I've just always lined up the two top arrows and have never had any problems, and I've changed springs countless times. Maybe I just get lucky and it always lines up right?
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Re: What a properly indexed strut looks like *pics*
I took my drivers side off today to check out if I had indexed it right when I put my Koni's a while back ago. I didnt, so I fixed it and decided to take a pic since I had it apart. If you removed the spring for any reason(like installing new ones), make sure that you reassemble it correctly or you'll get popping noises when turning. Alot of people know this already, but for those who dont this might help you. I took this picture with the spring removed so you could see the hole on the lower perch easier.
To properly reassemble the strut, you must first make sure that the spring is seated in the lower perch correctly. Then you must line up the two triangles on the top mount and upper spring perch with the hole on the lower spring perch. Here's a pic of what I mean. Just line up the three circles in a straight vertical line, while making sure the top perch rubber isolator is seated correctly on the top of the spring. Then slowly remove your spring compressor making sure the spring doesnt move around.
Once your all done, it should look like this:
After the spring compressor is removed, make sure that the spring is still seated properly on the lower perch and that everything is lined up as close as possible. If not compress the spring again and realign. Once its all lined up and the spring is seated correctly, reinstall the strut assembly in the car. Remember that once you get the strut in and install the pinch bolts and top nuts, to preload the strut a little with a floor jack. Preloading will help remove any spaces and loose sections that can cause noise. Make sure you DONT put the floor jack on the flat part of the lower control arm or you could bend it. Then tighten the pinch bolts and top nuts enough so they wont move. Remove the jack and torque everything down to spec.
Hope this helps...
To properly reassemble the strut, you must first make sure that the spring is seated in the lower perch correctly. Then you must line up the two triangles on the top mount and upper spring perch with the hole on the lower spring perch. Here's a pic of what I mean. Just line up the three circles in a straight vertical line, while making sure the top perch rubber isolator is seated correctly on the top of the spring. Then slowly remove your spring compressor making sure the spring doesnt move around.
Once your all done, it should look like this:
After the spring compressor is removed, make sure that the spring is still seated properly on the lower perch and that everything is lined up as close as possible. If not compress the spring again and realign. Once its all lined up and the spring is seated correctly, reinstall the strut assembly in the car. Remember that once you get the strut in and install the pinch bolts and top nuts, to preload the strut a little with a floor jack. Preloading will help remove any spaces and loose sections that can cause noise. Make sure you DONT put the floor jack on the flat part of the lower control arm or you could bend it. Then tighten the pinch bolts and top nuts enough so they wont move. Remove the jack and torque everything down to spec.
Hope this helps...
Damn I put the jack exactly where you said not to put it. Now looks like my strut doesn't fit. How can aliviate the situation? Put pressure back into the control arm? Also is my spring upside down or is that the right way and I ask that just because the letters are upside down. One last thing. The top hat should say R since I was working on the passenger front side correct?
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