Originally Posted by bomerman19

Alright we are going today we are going to crack open the Manual trans.

DISCLAIMER : If you do not know how to pull the trans out of your own car then go away this is too big of a job for. This is not a beginner move it is for some one who is mechanically experienced!

If you take apart your transmission then it is all on you! transmissions can be a delicate thing and if you have any doubts don't do it!


Now that we have gotten through the disclaimer lets look at what tools you will need

10mm socket
12mm socket
27mm socket/ or big crescent wrench
1/2 inch drive ratchet
3/8's inch driver ratchet
3/8's drive extensions'
Large needle nose Pliers preferably angled
Large flat head screw driver
Large pry bar
rubber mallet
clean table to work on I prefer 2 saw horses with 2 boards on them that way you can split the boards in the middle cause the main shaft sticks out a bit past the case on the side that does to the clutch.


First put that trans up on the table it should already be drained before you stick it up there.



Now undo the 4 10mm bolts that hold the shifter assembly in. you will probably need to shift the lever over to get to one of the bolts.



now you want to make sure you shift the lever to the neutral position once the 4 bolts are out. to get to the neutral position take the weighted lever and shift it to the middle then the upper lever that is above the weighted lever should be able to move up and down freely. give it a nice tug you might have to get a screw driver and pry it a little to break the seal cause it is supposed to be honda bonded shut but not all of them are.



pull out the shifter



the trans should look like this once the shifter comes out



now get that 27 mm socket or giant wrench and undo the reverse light switch sensor this is also the best and easiest place to fill the trans with fluid for future reference.



Now you want to remove these to bolts they are 12mm but be careful there are 2 shiny metal ***** behind them that you don't want to loose.






now the 2 ***** should be sitting in the whole either tilt the trans to the side and catch them when they fall out or use a small magnet to grab them.





Okay now to get cracking on really trying to get that case open. their are 14 12mm bolts I suggest you get a socket with a little over a foot of extensions to get the bolts on the front side of the trans. also use a 3/8's drive socket cause it is easier to get in to the tight bolts.

start by first cracking the bolts loose and do it in a star pattern the way you would do a 5 lug rim (ie. start with one then go to the farthest one away and then go to the farthest one away from that one)

once they are all cracked start backing them all out.




Now get that 1/2 drive ratchet and at the top of the case there is a spot just for it. put the ratchet in and unscrew it.




Once you pull it out it should look like this




we will get right back to that in a second

now grab a pry bar and a big screw driver to pop the case. their are 2 spot on the case to put the bar to pop the case.

here on the front which is one of my favorite spots



and here on the back by the diff




Now the first time the case gets cracked it tends to put up a fight cuase honda bond is the **** and likes to hold like a mother

you just want to break the seal not pull it all the way off you can't do that yet!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

once the seal is broken go back to that plug you just pulled of a little while earlier with the 1/2 inch drive ratchet look down that hole and you will see a little spring clip. stick the gaint needle nose pliers in there and spread it. I then like to stick a big flat head in to hold the pliers in place while the spring clip is being spread.




now with the clip spread stick a pry bar/giant screw driver in (I like to stick one in on each side) the side of the case and rock them back and forth to get it loose and come up with it once it release from the clip it should come right up and off.

Some times the diff like to stick into the top of the case take the handle of the rubber mallet and stick it in the axle hole and tap the diff it should drop right out.

Horray!!! now the case is off and it should look like this






Now class we move onto removing everything else. start with the 2 10mm bolts that hold on the reverse gear shifter.



this is what the reverse shifter looks like



now the shiny rod that goes through the reverse gear you are going to wnt to pull that out.




just grab it and pull it will slide right out.

here is the reverse gear removed



Now to pull the gear set the best way to go about it is to take both of your hands grab the gear set and shifter forks all together at once and wiggle them while pulling them up if you are still having trouble with this I have found that some times you need to start it off by. sticking in a pry bar under the lowest gear and prying it up a little bit.

like so



when you get it out it should look like this...... try to keep the gear sets together it will be easyier to put back in if you keep them together.



the rest of the case should look like this



Only thing left is the diff just grab it and pull it out if it does not want to come out just flip the case and the diff should fall out if not take the handle of the rubber mallet and tap it from the back side keep one hand on the diff cause it is heavy.

here is the diff out of the case and the empty case.




now if you want to you can pull the magnet out and clean it off. there will always be some metal on the magnet. So don't fret if there is some, everything wear's a little bit especially when it breaks in. DON'T FORGET TO PUT IT BACK IN!

to put it back together basicly just reverse order everything but make sure to put either RTV or honda bond around the edge of the case to seal it other wise it will leak.


Also another Big Note: on putting the whole thing back together that the shop manual forgets to tell you about. The ellusive upper cone ring...

here it is



it goes in the top of the case. but it has to be oriented the right way other wise it will crush when you put the case back on you won't have reverse and then you will have a bunch of broken aluminium floating around the case wich is not pretty.

here is a pic of the inside of the top of the case with the ring sitting in there.



and this is how it looks sitting on on top of the main shaft at the proper posititon you want the long part right next to the shifter fork



another note the ring sits on top of the shaft and then is capped by a bearing like so in the picture don't pay attention to were my finger is pointing. Oooh look at the shiny bearing






Thats about it for a tranny tear down I was going to shoot it in video but didn't have any one to hold the camera oh nose.


Anyways this has been brought to you by Bomerman19 Have fun!!!

Originally Posted by thesushiboy

That DIY writeup makes me shiver. @.@

Originally Posted by sdaidoji

I think this one fits better in here, so reposting:

Originally Posted by tbohar

I'd DIY that one for sure

Originally Posted by marvinzon

I'm having my car serviced soon to try and replace the input shaft bearing. The person that is doing it for me used to be a mechanic at Honda and he is telling me the pilot bearing is the exact same thing as the input shaft bearing. So he's saying that the bearing has just two different names? Is that right? I just wanna make sure that he doesnt have to open the tranny up again after figuring out the pilot bearing and input shaft bearing are two different parts

Originally Posted by wade623

pilot bearing is in the middle of the flywheel
input shaft bearing is inside the transmission in the hole for the input shaft

so to answer your question no they are not the same thing

is that why he used to be a mechanic?

Originally Posted by wade623

so no one knows where to get a new bearing besides the dealer? ive looked around on the internet but realy couldnt find anything about where to get one

Originally Posted by wade623

today i found a solution to the problem. i found someone that does custom bearings and does thier own cnc machining and also does most of the bearings for nascar. i got a differnt retainer for the bearing that is made out of a better material so it shouldnt break like the plastic that it was originally made with



honda input shaft bearing 26x58x15 (part # 91002-PS0-013) with custom retainer



if anybody is interested in getting one you can pm me

Originally Posted by talon187

i have a few qick questions i hope someone can answer. a few weeks ago i had my clutch replaced along with the throw out bearing. my noise was still there. so the trans was pulled again and the input shaft bearing was changed noise is almost gone. i hear a faint noise now and again it stops when the clutch is in. my question is how many bearings are in this trans? do others usually go bad besies the input shaft bearing?

Originally Posted by wade623

91002-PS0-013 bearing
91216-PL3-005 seal

talon187 is there any noise when you are driving it like grinding or other unusal noise?
thisguy did you also replace the pilot bearing?