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Ok, I've tried searching and getting as much as I could out of this post. I have an '01 Civic DX 5-Spd, with 162,500 miles. It's been eons since I've been on this site (before it changed from 7thgencivic). All original parts on my car (engine, trans, clutch, axles, etc.) I started out having I guess what everyone calls a ticking noise, started in the winter at 100k miles, thought it was noisy valves. I adjusted them(they were towards the maximum allowable value), didn't even need it really, but it seemed to help a little.

I could have sworn it was then noisy injectors, used an amsoil injector cleaner, again helped a little, and fuel mileage went up. I know aftermarket injector cleaners don't do the job a professional shop would do, so I thought I was living with noisy injectors, and as long as the car ran fine, gas mileage didn't suffer or anything, I could keep going.

Now it seems like I do have the input bearing problem after reading this post. No noise when clutch is released. Noise (very muddled kind of loose, rattling bearing noise). Not much noise at all in first gear on very low speed conservative engagement, until I hit 5-10 miles per hour. There in second gear, just as bad, less in third, even less in fourth, probably so much road noise, I really don't hear it at all in fifth. Same clutch release now, but I accelerate harder, and noise is worse, but same pattern in all gears as I previously stated.

The best way I can use to describe the noise at 5-10 mph and up in 1,2,3,4 gears is it "kinda" sounds like a diesel, but not as hearty, and only coming from the injector/cylinder head area. The only point of reference I have is sitting in the driver's seat. So if it is the input shaft bearing, holy sh*t that's noisy!

After describing the noise, does this sound familiar, am I on the right track?

 
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I talked to the dealer a couple days ago, and the service dept manager hasn't seen or heard of the input bearing problem (at that dealership anyway), at least he said that problem is highly unlikely. Then again, he also pointed to the opposite of what this post points at for my problem.

Got the trans out today. All the grease on the slave cyl pushrod, the ball pivot for the fork, and on the tines at the bearing was dried up. but everything looks pretty good. Wear on the fingers was good, springs looked good, and the throwout bearing looked well used, but it did not feel gritty or sloppy.

I still have to pull the pressure plate off and inspect the rest. I noticed that with the front wheels off the ground, and the car idling in neutral, the front wheels still spin. When I pulled the trans out, I spun the input shaft by hand, and the differential still spins. Is that right?

 
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hey how much would this cost??? to have a shop do this mine is making the noise when the clucth is out...

 
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Great writeup helped me diagnose my problem. however, the part numbers for these parts have changed, the guy ordered it by the pic but the part number was nowhere close..il get the updated ones when I pick up my part!

 
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Im being charged 420. The reason is the transmission has to be out and open to get to the part...also I hear on our cars you have to drop the subframe to get the trans out, which doesnt make costs any cheaper..however dont say that to a shop because if they tell you 300 and you tell them the subframe has to be dropped they can charge more..if they tell you 300 and then try to charge you more because they didnt know...well thats their fault and you only pay 300. my shop is a very reputable performance shop that deals specifically with hondas so i trust them a lot and am willing to pay more

 
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oh ok cool thanks for the estimate...so does this need to be changed or can we just try to not think about the noise and just leave it like it is?????
what are the consequences if we dont fix it if any???

 
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a busted tranny over time!^

 
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any chance a worn ISB would throw a check engine light???

 
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ok i have a bad input shaft bearing too and after reading about all these 7thgens goin bad IS THERE NO RECALL ON THIS??????!!!!?!?!?!?

 
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Does anyone have a DIY to take the transmission out?

 
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Well ****.... Do I have to do everything???

Jack up the car and take both tires off. Pull out the Two 17mm (maybe 19mm, i dont remember) bolts that hold the strut to the spindle on each side and the 10mm bolt that anchors the brake line. Then pull out the cotter pin and pull off the large (23mm i believe) axel nut that holds the axel to the spindle.

Now go to the engine bay and pull out the battery and the battery tray. Then pull off all of the air induction system parts, and basically anything attached to your transmission. Make sure you pull out the Speedo sensor. You could leave it in, but why leave a cheezy *** piece of plastic that costs half a billion dollars in a place where it could potentially be broken?

Next up, put a wooden block on a floor jack and gently apply pressure to the bottom of your oil pan. Then take off the Front, Rear, and Passenger's side trans mounts. You will want to get another floor jack (i LOVE my cheap *** harbor freight Racer's special aluminum low profile jack for this) and use it to hold up the trans. Now you need to take out the axels and unbolt the trans.

Now i have a nice trick for you.... Loosen the 4 17mm bolts that connect the subframe to the body, and that will give you enough room to pull the trans back far enough to do anything you need to do, without having to pull it completely out of the engine bay.

 
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This is my first post here but I am a former member of 7thgencivic.com so whats up guys and girls! less then a week ago I had my manual five speed rebuilt by a honda dealer. I still hear a noise at 2500 rpm that sounds like rattling. not before that rpm or after and only when the clutch is engaged. the car made this sound about a week before I knew the tranny was shot in the past. I had all bearings replaced as well as the clutch and preasure plate. I bought my 02ex coupe brand new in 02 and never had tranny probs. before now. I recently moved to my area and don't really trust the dealer I took it to but don't know any small machanic to take it to. Does it sound like a transmission prob or could it be something smaller like a heat shield, cat. etc? The car barely has 103,000 miles on it and I have ALWAYS takin good care of it. I'm getting ready to sell the car to a close friend and get a 07 SI sedan, and don't want to hand him my probs. This has been a great car for me and I'm sure it will be for him. Any similar expierences? Ideas?

 
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I'm at 140,000 with this same diagnosis and I'm still going strong. So it's been 40,000 miles, just about two years and my car still performs the same. Symptoms still the same, noise when clutch is out and once in a while, usually just when the car is started in the morning, driving down my street, 2nd gear doesn't accelerate. Stepping on the gas makes the engine rev, but the car slows down. I guess the transmission and the engine aren't connecting. However, when I step on the clutch like two times in neutral, then put it back into second, everything is fine, second engages. And it only does this in the morning. Like if I were take it to the shop and have them recreate the problem, they couldn't. It does it only in the morning, when the first time it's in second gear, then not again for the rest of the day.

So it's been like this for two years. I hope don't jinx myself by posting this..

 
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Hi everyone! I don't know how long Photobucket will keep these Pictures up but...


Guess what? Yup. It happened to me. Around the 100k Mark.
Now thank GOD for this Forum and the explanations else I would probably cry.

Anyways, Everything was fairly simple. So if you wish to do this on your own. Don't sweat it!! It would have actually taken me about 3-4 hours to have the tranny out however due to some run-ins (I will get into later) I spent about 6 hours on this project. Just Remember, This is Mechanics. ALOT of manufactures make things a certain way to fit it. If it doesn't fit in. Don't put it in. If you don't really feel confident. Don't do it. ask around. etc etc you get the point.

Now. First thing if first.
Will it hurt my engine if I leave it? No. But you should change it. It gets annoying telling poeple that your "V-tec" is kicking in. (I don't even have "v-tec")
What does it sound like? What is my Plastic cage is not broken? It could STILL make this annoying noise. Well I have uploaded 2 Videos of mine on Youtube right here.
Please excuse the video sync, It was from a camera.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nmL5CSVG-bw
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=t3tAV7idcSs

Now I also provided some pictures too. I know there are ALOT already of excellent write ups but A little extra on the help just in case wouldn't hurt.
These are JUST tips I provided. I did things my way and had to do what I had to do. so it's not step by step here.
If you want good write ups by Excellent authors please just search in google for "input shaft bearing Honda Civic" or back to the first part of this thread.
3 Runs ins I had.

Tranny falling
Hub bolts
"O" ring.

This is the "hub". You have to take out the axle to the Tranny. These are the bolts I am currently pointing at. Mine were rusted with MAX POWER! Be careful. I have to LITERALLY heat mine and almost torch them off (thank god for propane bottles) and use a impact wrench to get them off.



The transmission might be hard to wiggle out. It's kind of heavy. Use a jack if you have to. It might hit the side of the frame (Red circle). So you will however most-likely and probably have to jack up the engine.



release this bolt to jack up the engine a little.
don't jack up the engine all the way, but just "enough". You don't want to start ripping lines out.



OH YEAH! once the transmission is out...
You might want to knock on the door and check your clutch too just to see how she is doing down there. be a long time before you see her again. Mine was okay. Still meat left on that body. Its simple to do. with a marker (yellow or white) Mark a line from the clutch to the flywheel. This way here it will be easier to see which way she came off. 8 point wrench (I forget the size lol) just undo the bolts on the outer side of the clutch. Now when taking apart the clutch is simple. putting it back in will be the same way. on the clutch itself the "bigger outside" will be towards the forks (or the tranny). line up the white mark line (there are also 3 pins to help you line up the clutch) and bolt her back on.
It really is simple once you figgure it out. like kindergarten building blocks.

This is a "o" ring. See him? My bad drawn arrow is pointing at him. He is NOT your friend. Needle nose Pliers or ring pliers will do. This is to pull out the input shaft gear. Hold it apart to pull the gear out.



This is the tranny. Note that you MIGHT not want to take out the gears. I did however just to check up on them. In case. I'm fairly confident I can put it back together without mistakes. Nothing is currently on it.



This is the tranny without the outershell case. The red circle is where the bearing is located. To get the bearing out, I used a 5/8 socket on the OTHER side of the tranny. Tap the socket and the bearing should pop right out. Whatever you do do *NOT* pry on the the transmission to get it out. you could damage the transmission.



This is the Input shaft and where the bearing sits on it. Thank you to my brother for playing around with the shifting on it. I hope I can set the syncs back up and not **** anything up



So I went to the Honda Dealership. Apprently they don't know or never heard of this "Issue", Which is understandable. Most people around here that own Civics are older crowed. The younger tend to the older civics.
So I orderd the part. Cost me 45$ (canadian) Which I felt was weird. I had a bad gut feelings. Because they didn't have 'it in stock" It would be in by TOMORROW at 8am. thats cool. I go back today. THEY ORDERD the WRONG part. Ugh! I *knew* this was going to happen.
they ordered "number 6" the countershaft bearing (refer the the manual on front page) part instead of number 5 Input shaft bearing. so they went and checked the bearing and RE-order it. When he showed the screen I noticed the price said "21.xx" (barley seen it) and I am pretty sure it was that bearing. Now i have to wait till tomorrow before I can put everything back together. thanks alot. Jerks. (I even showed him on his screen what to order).

Anyways....Thanks again guys. I really do love the write ups. Props again to the people who did them

 
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^^^ RESPECT for the write-up!!

Are you gonna post any more pics on your progress on putting everything abck together?

 
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Sorry. Follow up! Everything works great!!!
I written up some little tips but my account on the forums isn't working right now... Update more later

 
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Back from the dead, I just ordered myself an input shaft bearing directly from the dealer today. It should be here in a day or so, then next week I'm going to take it to a trans shop and get it replaced. I've been looking forever to find out how much something like this would cost me in labor, and I'll finally be finding out next week. When I get it in, I'll post the results here...

The shop I'm taking it to is a transmission speciality shop, they put in my clutch and flywheel, and a transmission mount for like 500 bucks. So I'm expecting the price to be something around that as well, hopefully less of course.

 
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OK! screw this ****! I dropped my car off, and they're telling me it's going to be like 800 dollars in labor! WTF! **** this seriously, I'm not going to pay someone a thousand dollars just to replace a stupid *** 30 dollar bearing! (input shaft bearing)

It's time I learn how to work on cars.... since no one else around here knows, I'm just going to get a chilton, bust open the trans and freakin do it myself!

Damn son.

 
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Awesome, I just finished replacing the Input shaft bearing on my transmission, and holy fricking mackrel, this is by far the most complicated most time consuming thing I've ever done with my car!

Don't let that discourage you though. It CAN be done. I've never done any transmission work what so ever with my car, and this was just figured out step by step with no DIY and pretty much no help from anyone.

Although I'm not 100 percent done, I have another thread going with recommendations from people to bleed the clutch slave cylinder to get the clutch working again.

I think one of the hardest parts is actually getting the transmission out. It's big awkward heavy and unusually shaped. I got recommendations from some people saying that trans case can come out the top of the engine bay, but I didn't wanna do that. Not to mention, i don't think I'm strong enough to pull it up and out anyway. So instead I unbolted the sub-frame and dropped the trans down, and then pulled it out of the passenger side wheel well. Again, heavy and awkward. The sub-frame is easy to get down, there's four bolts, plus one on each side, like just to the left of the suspension. And of course, to drop the sub-frame, you have to jack up the engine and keep it in place.

Lets see, I couldn't really find a good DIY for this other then what's been posted from technical manuals, which is good, but you wouldn't follow it to the tee when doing a driveway installation.

It took me approximately 14 hours to do this. The shops around here quoted me about 11 hours of labor, and at 89 dollars an hour is like a thousand dollars! So I was just like "ummmmmm...... no."

oh yeah if you do decide to do this on your own, expect it to take two days, put all your bolts and crap in ziploc bags, for organization, it makes things a million times easier. Also expect it to take like three jacks, two or four jackstands, a breaker bar, a 32mm socket a half inch socket wrench, lots of umph and a couple of power bars.

I don't know what else to write, if anyone has any questions about doing this or whatever, let me know. I'm not an expert, but I'll tell you what I know.

I will post pictures and a video, with explanations soon.

 
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If I hear a noise similar to the one in the youtube video while steping on the gas in like 2nd and 3rd gear an I dealing with the input shaft barring problem?

 
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Hi guys! Long time no talk!!


To Bobbys question. No it probably will not be that. It is your Transmission. You will hear this noise all the time when you are driving it or it is in neutral. I don't know what it could be. You could take out your tranny and open it to check out the guts. If you don't have the time and the patience for your car to be out of commission then... My suggestion is to just buy a new transmission and slip it in.
I figure if you are going to take it out might as well and see if you can fix it.


Alright guys A couple Questions

Did you take apart the subframe and all that? Or are you saying that you can just take apart the side of the transmission that has the bearing in it and slip it out the bottom?

Just Unbolt the side of the transmission. Jack up the Engine and slip it out from the bottom. It is a HEAVY little thing (50 pounds?) so you will probably need someone up on top to give you a hand lifting it and wiggling it out. There is still barley anyroom after jacking the engine up. at one point I just got tired and lifted the engine up a little too much where it was pinching the rad hose. Lucky no damage.

Also, did you drain the transmission fluid before you took it all apart?

Yes I drained all the fluid. Before I even dropped the tranny is one of the main things I have done. mostly because I don't need that extra half-a-pound weight. I'm fat...Not strong. Use the drain plug by the tranny. I believe it is a 3/4 Ratchet (No socket needed) to drain it.
Oh and use new fluid. Don't be a cheap-*** and just filter it and put it back in.

Here are some BIG tips too..I suppose.

The Snap Ring.
My Friend Actually did this.
He cut it.
Yup.
I **** you not.
He cut it in half and just slipped the 2 pieces together. The tranny is still holding together perfectly fine. He is a guy with no Patience and gets frustrated very easy.
So...I guess if you want..Cut the...snap ring? and put...it...in.

Which is my next point.

As he was taking out his one gear shaft. The bearing stuck on the tranny and all of his gears came pouring down. If this happens. You are almost f***ed. At this point you have to be VERY observant to put it back together. The brass ring LOOKS like it can go on any way however..It goes on only ONE way. And ONE way only. He just taken the spline to our other friend who rebuilt it for him.

And thusly is...My big NEWS update!

UPDATE

It has seemed that my Transmission will not GO INTO SECOND GEAR. It grinds now and just slips out.
I don't know what is wrong with it. But I am getting a used one for 500$ (Canadian) anyways. I don't wanna screw around with it anymore.
Boo-F***ing-ooo-urns. All that work for nothing!

I will however be taking the old tranny apart once again. And probably will donate the Bearing for free.so it is up for grabs if anyone wants it But I won't be doing that till I save enough money for my new-used Transmission (Unless someone donates one! or has one for a cheaper price to sell. ) and take my old one back out.

 
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Maybe you guys could help me with this? A while ago my Civic started making a strange vibrating sound. The sound only happens when the car hasn't been driven in a while (overnight or during the day while I'm working) and higher than 3000 RPMs. It matches the sound of the engine but it's not a grinding noise, just a vibration. It only happens for the first 10-15 minutes of driving and then completely disappears. I thought this might be a transmission problem because it only happens past 3000 RPMs when I'm in gear; no sound is made if I rev it in neutral. I've heard from other sources that it may also be a rusty heatshield on the catalytic converter but I'm not sure, I don't really know much about cars in general. Thanks for any help you might be able to give.

 
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Does it Vibrate more when the Revs go up as you drive? With the clutch in and in gear but at a idle does it make this sound?
It most sounds like the Cat convert heat shield.
Just pop the hood and clamp the clips down even more (the cat is right on the front of the engine.)
If however it continues to do this then it maybe be something more..
It could possibly be your clutch? (although it would make a worse noise..)
The Input shaft bearing makes the noise more (and more annoying) as you the RPM rev more.

First try the heat sheild. Clamp it down.
while your under the hood try and pinpoint where the sound is the loudest.

 
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As I rev higher the sound does get worse, but as mentioned before it goes away after a few minutes. I've tried to get others in the car to listen to it with me but by the time I get to anybody else the sound has subsided. It's not a grinding noise by any means at all. Also, the sound is nonexistant when I'm idling. No matter what gear I'm in nothing happens until I pass the 3000 RPM mark. I'll try what you suggested with the catalytic converter and see if that fixes anything. Thanks for your help =)

 
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Many thanks to all who posted.
Just finished and this thread was a great help. I didn't take out the lower balljoints, just took out the strut lower bolts and put a ziptie thru the holes. It will help you get the space to drop the subframe enough.
The bearing in the case was the easiest part.


MAKE SURE THE AXELS "CLICK" INTO PLACE WHEN YOUR DONE
This will save you a tow bill

 
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i have a 2001 (2001-2005 series) 1.6 vtec civic se manual (UK model). When I engage it in first gear and release clutch there is a click sound that comes from under the stering (not ver loud and cannot be heard if the blower is on). the sound only comes once when moving forward from stationary (sometimes there is a similar click when i move to 2nd gear) but not when changing to other gears in the moving car. there is no click when i reverse.

the car has just 26k miles on the odometer.

any help appreciated

 
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I have an issue similar to what Turbo had described. I hear a mid to mid-high pitch grinding noise in neutral, or moving slowly. It sounds like metal discs are being turned without lubrication.

Any suggestions?

 
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I had an auspicious noise that may have sounded like yours. I asked my mechanic what it was, and after looking around under the hood, he discovered my power steering fluid was a bit low.

Apparently, the level of fluid caused a strange suction-type noise, and it would go away as I turned the wheel.

Maybe your power steering fluid is low. Hope this helped.

 
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Great stuff. I was wondering what the rattling was for a couple years now. I had this problem ever since I did intense burnouts day to day for nearly a year. I must say Honda builds some nice clutches to take so much abuse. Currently at 102K on my '05 coupe and still the stock clutch going. Feels like it slips a bit at 1000-1200 rpms but it catches fairly well still if driving at a normal pace. I used to be careless of the car, you know the first new car i owned, the joy of doing burnouts thing. I'm over it now. Looking to put the car back into shape. My control arm bushing are going, freaking annoying noise and doesn't sound too safe either. Can't drive it or the cv's will go, had to order new control arms (cheeper that way, plus new arms won't hurt). Well anyway thanks for the info, cos i'm looking into changing my clutch in about 20-30K miles so this is definitely a helpful tip. I thought it was something in the main clutch component before.

P.S. The squeaky pedal is a common syndrome of all mt civics from what i hear, it comes and goes with the weather. you can lube it to fix it temporarily.

 
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hey guys, if the input shaft bearing is replaced, is it a chance for this problem to reappear ?