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On my 2002 Civic LX, my reset button has been having problems for a long time. If I push it really hard, I might get lucky and get it to change screens or reset. However, for resetting the maint req light, forget it.

What I did to fix the problem was make the reset button longer by gluing a small extension to the side of it that contacts the button on the circuit board.

To do this. I took out the instrument cluster.

Remove two screws above the gauges and pull the trim forward. The bottom is pressure clipped in so just pull forward firmly.

3 screws hold the instrument cluster in and then remove the two electrical plugs to pull out the entire assembly.

Take it apart by first unclipping the clear plastic front. Next unclip the black secondary face. These clips are easy to understand and should only need a small flat screwdriver to loosen.

Next take off the white backing cover off the backside of the cluster.

Now you can take out the reset button by carefully popping off the clip (part of the button itself).

I made the extension piece out of a plastic thumbtack. I cut a small cylinder about 3mm thick and shaped it with sandpaper.

Glue it to the back of the button with super glue.

You can test out your new rig without putting everything back together.

Put everything back together in reverse order and all is well.

 
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I'm having the exact same problem with my '02 EX. I managed to get the Maintenance Req'd light to go off by sheer luck after multiple tries last time. If it comes on again I don't think I'll get so lucky.

Taking out the instrument gauge is a piece of cake. I'll definitely have to try this.

 
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I hope this helps. I looked everywhere for help and couldn't find it. I got so upset that I was ready to just pay to have it fixed. However, the dealer said they need to keep the car while the gauges are sent off for re-calibration. I am proud of my 271k and want to continue racking up the miles.

 
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I just fixed mine a few weeks ago. Desoldered the old switch and soldered in a new momentary tactile switch in place. I have a few of them from when I took apart an old dlp big screen that no longer worked (so I could use the cabinet to build a shelf. Lol). The existing test button makes contact with the switch and the whole thing works like new.

Edit: sure, I ended up pulling the fuel gauge needle, but as long as you make note of where it was pointing when you took it apart, it's easy to "recalibrate"

 
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good enough to go into the DIY section

Thanks! we usually mostly move things out, rarely move things in here

 
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I dont get how can I pop out the button itself.
can you please tell me exactly how to do it. Pictures may help

 
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I can't remember for sure but I think you have to remove the needles then pull out the PCB in order to get the stick out the back. I have a cluster torn apart and can check when I get home.

 
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If it's because you're having trouble resetting the odometer/maintenance light, it's the switch that's gone bad. I had to take my cluster apart and solder in a new switch on my 2002. Luckily, because I'm a bit of a hoarder when it comes to electrical components, I had a momentary tactile switch laying around that fit. I will say, it wasn't fun or particularly safe resetting the needles to read accurately. It's doable, but not fun

The procedure @BrotatoChip said is pretty accurate. The point you're at, you remove the needles (and maybe some screws on the back? I don't remember) and the PCB board should pop off.

Here's how I reset the needles:

1. Make note of your gas level before taking the needles out
2. Plug in/mount the cluster into the car without the clear plastic cover and start your engine.
3. Install the fuel needle at about the spot where your fuel level was. Note: do not press the needle down too far or it'll more-or-less bind against the cluster and not sweep freely. There should be like a 2-3mm gap between the needle and the gauge face
4. (Warning, this step isn't quite safe - proceed at your own risk) Go for a bit of a drive and find the absolute minimum speed where you can engage cruise control. Install your speedometer needle pointing at 25mph. Alternatively, if you don't have cruise control and you have GPS that indicates speed, you can use that too.
5. (Warning, this step is also not quite safe - proceed at your own risk) With your speedometer set, maintain the car at a speed where you know what RPM it'll be. I recall my 2002 EX, 5th gear at 60mph was right about 3k RPM. Set your tach at that. Alternatively, if you have a Bluetooth OBD reader that gives real-time telemetry (e.g. BAFX OBD reader and the Torque app), use that, and do it in the safety of your driveway. Or just say screw it at set it to about 750 at idle.
6. Once you get back home, your car should be at operating temp. Set the temp needle at just below half.
7. Shut off the car and make sure the gauges all freely drop to the low peg. If any don't, it's a bit bound against the gauge face and you need to pull them up just a bit.

Hope that helps.

P.s. your username is awesome. Lol

 
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I wish I took pics when I did mine, but I didn't. I just kinda dived into the repair with a soldering iron. Unfortunately, I don't have that car anymore

If you see my post (#4 in the thread), I said I had to desolder it from the PCB. Apparently, the only needle I had to take off was the fuel needle. I just replied to your other thread, and figured I took the whole thing apart.

 
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Thanks guys.