P1259 VTEC System Malfunction

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Old Jan 1, 2011
  #31  
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Re: P1259 VTEC System Malfunction

Originally Posted by emicha
Just replace the middle (from the 3) relay under the glove compartment.
hmm...i dont think i get it...
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Old Jan 1, 2011
  #32  
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Re: P1259 VTEC System Malfunction

Originally Posted by matt_d_83
hmm...i dont think i get it...
You don’t have to. I don’t get it either.

That’s what I did and it worked.
To be on the safe site replace all 3 relays. I am not sure if the previous owner didn’t switch their places.
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Old Jan 1, 2011
  #33  
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Re: P1259 VTEC System Malfunction

Originally Posted by emicha
Just replace the middle (from the 3) relay under the glove compartment.
Try again:
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Old Jan 1, 2011
  #34  
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Re: P1259 VTEC System Malfunction

I think replacing the relays is a little over my head...
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Old Jan 2, 2011
  #35  
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Re: P1259 VTEC System Malfunction

Come on
It's like replacing a large fuse with more legs.
Don't brake the locking pins

good luck
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Old Jan 3, 2011
  #36  
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Re: P1259 VTEC System Malfunction

This is a very common problem with all vehicles. It's due to people leaving the A/C in re-circ mode. In the future don't leave the A/C in re-circ mode when you turn the car off.
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Old Jan 3, 2011
  #37  
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Re: P1259 VTEC System Malfunction

Originally Posted by lazlong
This is a very common problem with all vehicles. It's due to people leaving the A/C in re-circ mode. In the future don't leave the A/C in re-circ mode when you turn the car off.
How is that related to CEL 1259?
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Old Jan 3, 2011
  #38  
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Re: P1259 VTEC System Malfunction

Originally Posted by emicha
How is that related to CEL 1259?
You got me. It was 4:00 in the morning. It was for another thread, just don't know how it ended up here.
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Old Mar 11, 2014
  #39  
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Re: P1259 VTEC System Malfunction

Originally Posted by lazlong
Try again:
Exactly where is that in the ep3 and whats the fuse called? im having the same 4k problem and its annoying when your trying to drive fast
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Old 1 Week Ago
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Re: P1259 VTEC System Malfunction

Originally Posted by kjgracing
Does anybody know how to debug my problem. OBDII scanner is throwing the code P1259 which tanslates to VTEC system malfunction.

My car shakes at idle....could I be misfiring or is it a bad solenoid?
My plugs look good and are correctly gapped.

Any ideas from you honda tech gurus.

Or could you let me know what to fix to get rid of VTEC system malfunction...I deleted the code and have reset the ECU but it made no difference...engine still shakes at idle up to about 1,100 rpms.

The shaking is getting worse.

I know the code has to do with the
Rear VTEC Pressure Switch
VTEC System Malfunction, Rear Bank (Bank 1)
i’m dealing with the same thing and I think I’m gonna try to fix it right now. I did a head gasket, timing belt all sorts of stuff. I was down to adjusting valve lash, but after ECU relearn I get a real rough idle and knocking once it enters closed loop.

I believe it is related to a short in the wiring possibly disturbed when the wiring harness was moved. Get a multimeter and check continuity. In my case, the solenoid wire inside the harness or right where it connects was touching the bracket that goes over the VTEC solenoid. Even though it’s covered. The more the Car shakes the more intermittently grounds. It should be an open loop, but when I touch the plug from the wiring harness(only one pin and one wire in it) and touch a ground with the key on I was getting 12 V. Before I disconnected, I moved the plug slightly and it went to open loop. If it’s grounding, it’s engaging your solenoid, causing it to react as VTEC is engaged and running rich while your O2 sensors are trying to lean it out, I believe. I only had tapping, but I think in removing my valve cover in the wiring harness I twisted that wire somehow so when my tapping went away, I started having knocking after closed the loop in the relearn process.

Do you get P1259 right when the car starts? Reset your ECU so there’s no error codes and notice if it idles good or rough in the beginning and does it change as it starts to warm up. My oil level is perfect I’ve cleaned everything, but I noticed the light comes on faster than it could possibly build oil pressure for. Keep in mind this is making sure that your oil light is not on are you have oil pressure issues. Your car sends a signal when it first starts and if there’s an irregularity, it will kick you into limp mode. It’s like running VTEC at idle but because of a short, not a broken wire, it’s a tug of war
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